Stabilizer Blocks

We carry 4 sets of lynx levelers. Whatever is left after we level the trailer go to the 4 corners.

I like those that Filthy Beast made up and would take them 1 step further and hinge one end so small loose stuff could be stored in them. Maybe even put a little latch so they can't empty out in case one gets deployed full of stuff. Other wise I have 2 X 12"s cut square with 3/4" plywood the same size glued and screwed to one side. This will prevent cracking and breaking up when the weight is applied to them.

As mentioned above, I also use an 8x8x12. Five of them, one for each stabilizer and one up front under the jack. I painted them with a few coats of the rubberized paint and attached handles made out of 6" prices of webbing. They are a few pounds a price but hold up really well and with the straps I can carry them comfortably around the TT.

when we had our TT with the stabilizers, we took 8x8x12 pieces with us. Never needed any more.

I like the lynx blocks. My 5 year old granddaughter can help me set up with 'grandpa's legos'. :)

RJCorazza wrote:
With (20) Lego style blocks I was frequently coming up short for the stabilizer jacks. I opted to buy a pair of Anderson Levelers to free up more blocks. I haven't tried them yet, but they should be awesome.

I'd have invested in a set of Andersen Levelers myself by now but with our trailer having a narrow 29" axle spread there just isn't enough room between the tires to prevent the rear Anderson from getting jammed between the tires. Yeah, I know - Andersen does include instructions for cutting as much as 5" off the tip but I'm just not prepared to do that as the more that's cut off the greater is the minimum lift with that leveler. I'd instead round the bottom edge of the thick end as some owners have done but in my case that still wouldn't provide anywhere near the clearance needed. Andersen Levelers are surprisingly heavy for what they are but they're also slick and will slip easily on any hard surface ... they also don't offer a particularly large footprint and can sink into soft ground surfaces. Some use wood under each Andersen to prevent this but since wood itself is slick I'd instead use 3/4" thick outdoor stair tread made of recycled rubber - heavy and textured much like roof shingles, can easily be cut to size, and available at home building supply places like Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

With (20) Lego style blocks I was frequently coming up short for the stabilizer jacks. I opted to buy a pair of Anderson Levelers to free up more blocks. I haven't tried them yet, but they should be awesome.

I use the Linx blocks. Lightweight and may last forever

Thanks everyone, all good info.
I do like the blocks filthy beast, and the plastic SoundGuy.

wing_zealot wrote:
Pressure treated 4x4's, about 9" long. Have several which come in handy for many things include blocks under stabilizers.

I prefer using a 4x stack of 2x8 pressure treated wood to minimize tongue jack extension because there's a lot of tongue weight pushing down on the stack but multiple stacks for use under the stabs are way too heavy for me. Instead, I screwed some plastic levelers together in four sets of 4 each - lightweight, easy to handle, and can be used individually or stacked together as may be necessary.