Forum Discussion

brianosaur's avatar
brianosaur
Explorer
Aug 03, 2017

TT max weight question from a newb.

So, like many, we are done with tenting. I love camping but are through with all the work involved with it. We only go a couple of time per year. The reason? Hours to load my van. Hours to set up camp. Hours to break down camp. Hours to put everything away back home. I want a mobile ready-to-go camp with an hour or so of work on either end of the trip.

Anyway, I have been researching for a few weeks now. Went to a Jayco dealer. Came home and have researched a bit more.

I assume like many beginners do, we want to purchase a *starter* travel trailer. We want to make sure we absolutely love it before we invest the amount of money in a TT that makes our eyes twinkle and mouths drool.

Also, my concern now is having to buy a new truck, to pull the TT we may eventually want. Currently have a Ford e250 van.

I have been trying to do all the towing calculations but not sure if I figured it all out yet.

Currently thus is what I have for a TV.

GVWR 8600
CW 5336
GCWR 12000
Max load 3264
Max trailer 6600
RGAW 5520
GVW 7100? (see below)

Tongue weight for the bumper hitch is only 500 lbs., but willing to install a class IV hitch with 1000lbs tw or 1200lbs wd tw.

Driver (200 lbs) , wife, a pipsqueek 9 year old girl & one dumb moose of a Labrador retreiver about 500lbs right now. Figure down the road addon overkill of 250lbs with a kid friend, and me eating doritos and burgers alot. ...wife will never gain a pound of course.

750 lbs passengers?

Average cargo. No clue. Kayak. Bikes. Food. Gear and Beer? What do other people say this is on average?

1000 lbs cargo?

That makes GVW about 7100.
Uncertain if 150lbs of avg driver is already figured into CW.

So would concidering a 5000 lb TT be unreasonable to tow? Not sure what the TW of said yet-to-be-found TT would be, but 15% avg gives 750lbs on a new class IV hitch.

Looking for a reference point to know where to max out my TT weight search.
  • One thing to consider is your rear axle capability. Look at the tires to see what their weight capacity is, doubled is your total weight that can bear down on the axle. You really need a scaled value of that rear axle, then throw as much as you can right over and behind the rear axle and see what the axle weighs now. From there you can start calculating the tongue weight plus the weight of the new hitch and see what fits.
  • You also might want to subtract from your GCVWR instead of just the GVWR + tow. Generally you can't do GVWR + max tow capacity, as the max tow capacity assumes that the vehicle is very light.

    GCVWR is the max total (all) so subtract your CW plus trailer, payloads, cargo, fuel, etc etc.. from my quick math that netted about 1000lbs less than doing it with GVWR alone.

    Also I think that's RGAWR not RGAW, but that's tough to calculate anyways without weighing it. Maybe load everyone / payload up and weigh it and you can calculate what you have remaining for a tongue weight. I don't think that'll be your limiting factor though.

    I got about 4914 remaining from your GCVWR. I'd want to give myself ~15% leeway for safety, nets about a 4176lb trailer. Didn't really add fuel though either, so you could be close to 4klb. 11% TW still = 460lb or so. I'd still do the full hitch though, 99.99% of bumper hitches I've ever seen = horror stories.

    EDIT: Forgot to say good luck and I'm glad you've seen the light and want to quit tent camping. That's exactly my same deal, I just can't handle packing and unpacking in the heat anymore then worrying about severe storms, insanely hot tents, basic security, etc. Just got our TT about a month ago. You'll be SO MUCH HAPPIER.
  • Artum Snowbird wrote:
    One thing to consider is your rear axle capability. Look at the tires to see what their weight capacity is, doubled is your total weight that can bear down on the axle.


    So is what you're asking different than the rgaw of 5520?
  • What is your wheelbase length (between front and rear axles)? Longer wheelbase vehicles are more stable, and can tow a longer trailer safely. Just one more thing to think about. What engine is under the hood?

    Any weight distribution hitch's weight will have to be added to the overall 'hitch weight'. Most WD hitches are around 90 lbs. Also, be aware that any 'dry hitch weight' advertised for a TT does not include LP, battery, water, and whatever else you place near the front of the TT. An E250 is pretty capable, so the class IV receiver should enable the hitch weights you are looking at.

    I started out with a 23' TT and then went to a 17'; the shorter TT was more enjoyable to tow and maneuver, plus the longer one simply would not fit into some national forest CGs.

    If you can find a floor plan that works for you in a TT under 26' and 5,000 lbs dry, you'll probably be ok. But my advice is, the smaller the better. Anything over 20', you'll want sway control (an Equal-i-zer brand hitch works well).
  • Thank you for asking first...not like the guy I saw yesterday riding home from work. I see this F150 crewcab SB hauling what looks like a 25 to 30' TT...The back of the truck is mounded over with equipment. The truck rear and trailer front look like a "V"...as I pass I look and the guy doesn't even have a WDH...Just some safety chains and a light cable.

    I saw this and all I could think of is "Bet this guy hasn't been to RV.Net"
  • Keep the trailer GVWR within the tow rating for best results.
    Forget dry weight that the salesman may push on you.

    Yes you need a real class IV hitch attached to the frame.
  • you are in a far better position that most asking your question. congratulations
  • 5000lb ready to travel camper weight is right in your wheelhouse.
    Your van will run out of steam before it runs out of axle capacity , presuming a 5.4 engine in the van and 3.73 gears.