I read elsewhere that, according to the instructions, you are suppose to only attach the X-chocks after you unhitch. Why would that be? I've been setting everything before unhitching my TT.Sometimes I have to use a 'stacker' plastic block or two to level side-to-side, and if I only use regular triangular chocks, I can get some creep when I unhook, throwing of the centering of the stackers, which is counter to the instructions. Therefore, I have been using my one X-chock on the stacker side, since regular chocks wouldn't work there anyway, and putting the triangles on the other side.This seems to work great, and keeps the wheels centered on the stackers.Why would the instructions say otherwise?

Makes no sense to me. Rotochok says "first on, last off"

Maybe in case the trailer were to roll or shift a bit this would prevent it from being damaged. These are not to be used as wheel chocks they are to prevent movement fore and aft after proper chocking and set-up.

makes no sense to me either, first on because I had one roll on me once and the "A" frame went all the way to the ground just missing my foot by inchs

2-MTnesters wrote:Maybe in case the trailer were to roll or shift a bit this would prevent it from being damaged. These are not to be used as wheel chocks they are to prevent movement fore and aft after proper chocking and set-up.For one, if I have my one side up on stackers like I mentioned, regular wheel chocks won't work, as the wheels are not on the ground.Even If the other side was very secure, the trailer could move a little, leaving the wheels hanging off one side of the stackers.Maybe it's because I only have a 22' light weight TT, but I can't imagine the X-chock breaking. Looks pretty tough to me. It stays rock solid when I un-hitch, and keeps the wheels right in the middle of the stacker blocks like I left them.

This is from the X-Chock web siteStep 1: Get your trailer as level as possible from side to side by driving your low side tire(s) up on blocks. Before disconnecting from your tow vehicle, place a "wedge" chock behind each rear tire.You still must use wedge chocks to keep trailer from rolling x-chocks are for stabilization only. Rotochoks are different.

X-chock question | Good Sam Community

26 Replies

Rmack1
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
Rmack1 wrote:
2-MTnesters wrote:

These blocks stack like Lego's, 3 blocks on the bottom and two on top of them, 5 blocks total. Look HERE to see what I mean. The 5 blocks would be minus the one on top in the picture. You can even use This for your chock. Made for the Lynx Leveler blocks.

:S

Mine would do that if I had thought of it, I've just never needed it. Yet.

My 'stackers' have little ramps on one side that look like handles. If I turned the handle side ways, it would probably let me hook them together like that for the three on the bottom.

However, I don't see how a regular chock could then be used. The area that I would have to set mine would now be one block lower than the one the tire is resting on.

MTnester, I want you to realize how much I appreciate you spending your valuable time schooling a newbie (after a year? really?) like me.
Rmack1
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
2-MTnesters wrote:

These blocks stack like Lego's, 3 blocks on the bottom and two on top of them, 5 blocks total. Look HERE to see what I mean. The 5 blocks would be minus the one on top in the picture. You can even use This for your chock. Made for the Lynx Leveler blocks.

:S

Mine would do that if I had thought of it, I've just never needed it. Yet.

My 'stackers' have little ramps on one side that look like handles. If I turned the handle side ways, it would probably let me hook them together like that for the three on the bottom.

However, I don't see how a regular chock could then be used. The area that I would have to set mine would now be on block lower than the one the tire is resting on.

MTnester, I want you to realize how much I appreciate you spending your valuable time schooling a newbie (after a year? really?) like me.
Rmack1
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
Please excuse me if I seem a little obsessive/compulsive on this, but I had a real scare on one of my first times out.

I had always been on real level ground on my other TWO set ups, and didn't properly appreciate how little grade would get that thing rolling. I unhooked in a National Park, after unhooking my safety chains, without setting any chocks, and my TT went 'TWANG' as it came off the hitch, and proceeded to roll.

I bet I looked funny trying to hold on to nearly 5000# rolling along. If I had a shot of my face, I'd probably use it for my avatar.

The angels takes care of children and idiots. In this case, probably campground planners, as there was a bar of cement bolted at the down hill side, and my trailer wasn't going fast enough (yet) to jump it.

I've been a leveling, chocking fanatic ever since.
2-MTnesters
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
Rmack1 wrote:
2-MTnesters wrote:

That is correct, if it takes 1 block high to achieve level then It may take 2 blocks to be able to extend beyond the tire, if 2 blocks high then may take 5 blocks (3 on bottom and 2 on top) etc. I have never had the blocks slide on me, the fact that the chocks on the opposite side are directly on the ground also assist in preventing sliding as well. I also carry 3 sets of the Lynx Levelers (each set containing 10 blocks) with me to ensure I have plenty to crib up safely and ensure stability.

Wow. I didn't think you would ever want to park in a spot so steep that two blocks sitting next to three blocks would be flat on top!

In most cases, you would just be putting an equal number of blocks next to another to form a platform for your chock, right?

These blocks stack like Lego's, 3 blocks on the bottom and two on top of them, 5 blocks total. Look HERE to see what I mean. The 5 blocks would be minus the one on top in the picture. You can even use This for your chock. Made for the Lynx Leveler blocks.
Rmack1
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
2-MTnesters wrote:

That is correct, if it takes 1 block high to achieve level then It may take 2 blocks to be able to extend beyond the tire, if 2 blocks high then may take 5 blocks (3 on bottom and 2 on top) etc. I have never had the blocks slide on me, the fact that the chocks on the opposite side are directly on the ground also assist in preventing sliding as well. I also carry 3 sets of the Lynx Levelers (each set containing 10 blocks) with me to ensure I have plenty to crib up safely and ensure stability.

Wow. I didn't think you would ever want to park in a spot so steep that two blocks sitting next to three blocks would be flat on top!

In most cases, you would just be putting an equal number of blocks next to another to form a platform for your chock, right?
lakeside013104
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
Well my experience as follows:
First time I used my x-chocks, I put wheel chocks down, then x-chocks installed between tires, then un-hook from TV. As I hit the auto level start button and the 5er started to level itself, I heard lots of "stress" sounds coming from the wheel/spring/slack adjuster area of my suspension. I halted the auto level feature and noticed that the x-chocks seemed to be under extreme stress. I loosened x-chocks and found the tightening nut on the top of the chocks required much more effort to release compared to the amount of pressure I applied during original installation.

From this point forward I place standard wheel chocks (1 set before and 1 set behind both sets of 5er wheels) and then unhook. After auto leveling is complete I install x-chocks. No more stress issues by following this sequence.

When hooking up, x-chocks come off before any movement is started with the hydraulic landing feet. Wheel chocks come off LAST, just before leaving for the highway.

Lakeside
2-MTnesters
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
Rmack1 wrote:
2-MTnesters wrote:
Rmack1 wrote:
2-MTnesters wrote:
Maybe in case the trailer were to roll or shift a bit this would prevent it from being damaged. These are not to be used as wheel chocks they are to prevent movement fore and aft after proper chocking and set-up.

For one, if I have my one side up on stackers like I mentioned, regular wheel chocks won't work, as the wheels are not on the ground.

Even If the other side was very secure, the trailer could move a little, leaving the wheels hanging off one side of the stackers.

Maybe it's because I only have a 22' light weight TT, but I can't imagine the X-chock breaking. Looks pretty tough to me. It stays rock solid when I un-hitch, and keeps the wheels right in the middle of the stacker blocks like I left them.

Use whatever system that works for you but there are some people that will set up on a drastic slope and expect these things to keep a 15,000# rv from rolling down hill. The company says they are not meant to be installed until unhitched for this very reason. They aren't meant to chock the camper in this way. I would NOT want to depend on this chock alone to keep my 15,000#+ FW from rolling down a hill. If I have to crib up one side of my camper with the orange blocks I make sure there are enough extending beyond the tires for me to use my proper chocks at each of the 4 wheels, then after I unhook I install the X-chock. I never have the wheels resting on a single block wide. The way I've done it for several years and works for me. Tim

OK, If I'm following you, you have an extra stacker block next to the one your wheels are sitting on, on the down hill side. You then place the regular chock on the stacker, level with the bottom of the wheels, right?

This should work, as long as the stackers don't go sliding, which might be possible if you're sitting on something slick, like concrete. Not sure.

I would have my other side secured with a chock per wheel, on the ground, anyway. I just need two more chocks.

That is correct, if it takes 1 block high to achieve level then It may take 2 blocks to be able to extend beyond the tire, if 2 blocks high then may take 5 blocks (3 on bottom and 2 on top) etc. I have never had the blocks slide on me, the fact that the chocks on the opposite side are directly on the ground also assist in preventing sliding as well. I also carry 3 sets of the Lynx Levelers (each set containing 10 blocks) with me to ensure I have plenty to crib up safely and ensure stability.
Rmack1
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
Rmack1 wrote:

OK, If I'm following you, you have an extra stacker block next to the one your wheels are sitting on, on the down hill side. You then place the regular chock on the stacker, level with the bottom of the wheels, right?

This should work, as long as the stackers don't go sliding, which might be possible if you're sitting on something slick, like concrete. Not sure.

I would have my other side secured with a chock per wheel, on the ground, anyway. I just need two more chocks.

Correction; I would only have room for one extra chock, as the space between my two wheels on one side isn't enough for more stackers. One chock on a stacker sounds better than none, though.

Thanks for the tips, 2MTnesters.
Rmack1
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
2-MTnesters wrote:
Rmack1 wrote:
2-MTnesters wrote:
Maybe in case the trailer were to roll or shift a bit this would prevent it from being damaged. These are not to be used as wheel chocks they are to prevent movement fore and aft after proper chocking and set-up.

For one, if I have my one side up on stackers like I mentioned, regular wheel chocks won't work, as the wheels are not on the ground.

Even If the other side was very secure, the trailer could move a little, leaving the wheels hanging off one side of the stackers.

Maybe it's because I only have a 22' light weight TT, but I can't imagine the X-chock breaking. Looks pretty tough to me. It stays rock solid when I un-hitch, and keeps the wheels right in the middle of the stacker blocks like I left them.

Use whatever system that works for you but there are some people that will set up on a drastic slope and expect these things to keep a 15,000# rv from rolling down hill. The company says they are not meant to be installed until unhitched for this very reason. They aren't meant to chock the camper in this way. I would NOT want to depend on this chock alone to keep my 15,000#+ FW from rolling down a hill. If I have to crib up one side of my camper with the orange blocks I make sure there are enough extending beyond the tires for me to use my proper chocks at each of the 4 wheels, then after I unhook I install the X-chock. I never have the wheels resting on a single block wide. The way I've done it for several years and works for me. Tim

OK, If I'm following you, you have an extra stacker block next to the one your wheels are sitting on, on the down hill side. You then place the regular chock on the stacker, level with the bottom of the wheels, right?

This should work, as long as the stackers don't go sliding, which might be possible if you're sitting on something slick, like concrete. Not sure.

I would have my other side secured with a chock per wheel, on the ground, anyway. I just need two more chocks.
2-MTnesters
Explorer
Jan 21, 2014
Rmack1 wrote:
2-MTnesters wrote:
Maybe in case the trailer were to roll or shift a bit this would prevent it from being damaged. These are not to be used as wheel chocks they are to prevent movement fore and aft after proper chocking and set-up.

For one, if I have my one side up on stackers like I mentioned, regular wheel chocks won't work, as the wheels are not on the ground.

Even If the other side was very secure, the trailer could move a little, leaving the wheels hanging off one side of the stackers.

Maybe it's because I only have a 22' light weight TT, but I can't imagine the X-chock breaking. Looks pretty tough to me. It stays rock solid when I un-hitch, and keeps the wheels right in the middle of the stacker blocks like I left them.

Use whatever system that works for you but there are some people that will set up on a drastic slope and expect these things to keep a 15,000# rv from rolling down hill. The company says they are not meant to be installed until unhitched for this very reason. They aren't meant to chock the camper in this way. I would NOT want to depend on this chock alone to keep my 15,000#+ FW from rolling down a hill. If I have to crib up one side of my camper with the orange blocks I make sure there are enough extending beyond the tires for me to use my proper chocks at each of the 4 wheels, then after I unhook I install the X-chock. I never have the wheels resting on a single block wide. The way I've done it for several years and works for me. Tim

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X-chock question

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