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TyroneandGladys's avatar
Jul 07, 2015

Andersen WD hitch

Question to any one using a Andersen weight distribution hitch. How much hassle is it to unhook and unhook? From what I see you have to unscrew the adjustment nut on each side to unhook and the retighten when hooking up. Is that the procedure or is there another unofficial way?

Thanks
  • I've got just shy of 9k miles on mine over the last two seasons. I used to use the tongue jack to lift and put slack on the chains but have found unless you are a complete weakling it's faster to just use the socket from the get go. I use it mostly for the sway control since I'm using a diesel F250 to pull a 5500lb trailer, but it seems to work pretty well. It is vastly quieter than an Equilizer hitch, though the Andersen will give a little pop every once in a while usually backing while turning and off camber.
  • newman fulltimer wrote:
    you lift the tongue of the trailer to slack the chains then pull the bottom pin.great hitch


    Good tip. We're going to try this next time. Thanks.
  • Very easy for us. As others have mentioned, lifting the TT's tongue with the electric jack means I can do both ways without using a wrench. You'll see a similar tip (of lifting the tongue) for almost all other WDH systems.

    I've added a P-touch label onto the custom socket they give you with a 3-4 turns reminder (and it gives me a spot to count the turns).

    One of the big benefits for me is my wife can get our TT hooked up before I get home from work on camping Friday's. I'll have the ball assembly already in the truck, but she'll do the rest.

    I have about 4,700 miles of towing with mine in the 1.5 years since we bought it. I suspect it is not putting as much weight back onto the front tires as other systems would, but that's my biggest concern to date.
  • I lift the tow vehicle a little bit then unscrew the nuts, most the time a couple turns of the wrench loosens them enough to finish them off with your fingers. The hitch is easy to use but can be a pain if you unhook at an angle then hook back up straight as the plate will be cocked at an angle and you won't be able to hook up the plate without undoing one chain completely then pulling forward to bring the plate around so the other chain can be hooked up.

    One thing I don't like about the hitch system is the trailer latch assembly takes all the force while towing as the chains push the trailer hitch onto the ball so basically the front of the hitch isn't touching the ball at all. I am getting some heavy wear on the ball where my latch place is rubbing on the ball, enough to make a flat spot on the ball. I also don't buy there greaseless idea and have started to grease the ball in hopes of reducing ball wear.

    I have towed 2500 miles so far and my cone bushing was squeezing out both ends so Anderson sent me a new bushing which I replaced and by the way its not as easy as there you tube video makes it seem. When installing the ball back into the hitch I turned the ball 180 degrees so I can see if the grease helps with ball wear on a new side.

    To tell you the truth after seeing the wear and trying to talk to someone at Anderson that knows anything I wish I had just went with the old standard in WD hitches and I just might in the future.
  • I do it with the nut tightening. Maybe, just habit from using trunion bar hitches. And, I find it easier to store with the bottom plate disconnected from the chains. Either way, you need to lift the tongue and rear of tow vehicle, to relieve tension on the chains.
  • you lift the tongue of the trailer to slack the chains then pull the bottom pin.great hitch

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