Best way to tune in trailer brakes

So much depends...

One the brake size vs trailer size/weight and the biggie...how you
drive and where you drive

Friction material is sacrificial to the cast iron, though the cast iron
will also wear...albeit at a much lower rate

I carry tools and one set is to both re-adjust the trailer brakes during
the trip and to replace them during the trip.

Also touch the trailer brakes often during the trip. Both to check that
they are working and to keep them heated up in their working temp range

Don't currently own any trailer, but borrow from church members and/or
friends. They now know it is returned in better shape...most times.

Some times tell them they need xyz and if their brake shoes are too
low, will change them out for new shoes before I'll take it out on the
road.

Prefer to skid them during the shake out. Around 25mph or lower. Know
that when they get up into their op temp range, they will have more
braking. Some CAN NOT skid no matter what, but now I know before starting
out

Another test is to stop the whole setup out there in the parking lot
WITHOUT ever getting the TV's brakes to turn on, Just touch the TV's
brake pedal enough to tell the P3 to set the trailer brakes and go no
farther with the pedal. So the TV's MC never produces PSI for the TV
brakes during that 25mph check/test/adjustment

mkirsch wrote:

MMayleben wrote:
Ok good deal, thank you everyone for the information!

So dial back about .5 (that's the increments on my factory controller) from when the wheels lock up? I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't burn my trailer brakes up quickly if I used too much brake. This helps a lot.

You will never wear the trailer brakes out, so use 'em. Set them as aggressively as you can tolerate.

The technique described here is definitely a good one, but you will eventually develop a feel for when the trailer is braking to your satisfaction.

Ok that's good to know. Being new to these types of trailers, I wasn't sure how much use you can get out of the brake pads. I'd rather use too much, than not enough and hit something.

MMayleben wrote:
Ok good deal, thank you everyone for the information!

So dial back about .5 (that's the increments on my factory controller) from when the wheels lock up? I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't burn my trailer brakes up quickly if I used too much brake. This helps a lot.

You will never wear the trailer brakes out, so use 'em. Set them as aggressively as you can tolerate.

The technique described here is definitely a good one, but you will eventually develop a feel for when the trailer is braking to your satisfaction.

352 wrote:
Why in the world would you want to put flat spots on your $150 each tires fine tuning your trailer brakes by locking them up then backing off. Start with the minimum adjustment first, then adjust forward for more braking.

Nobody said drag them until they left black marks and started to smoke!!! A quick "chirp" is all you need and does no damage.

Besides, either way you adjust until the brakes lock, then back off. Only thing you'll do by starting from the bottom is heat the brakes up so they won't be as effective when you do finally get them to chirp.

TucsonJim wrote:

MMayleben wrote:
Ok good deal, thank you everyone for the information!

So dial back about .5 (that's the increments on my factory controller) from when the wheels lock up? I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't burn my trailer brakes up quickly if I used too much brake. This helps a lot.

I've been using that method for 20+ years, and I've never burned up my brakes. But I can make a very sudden stop if the situation warrants it.

Jim

Why in the world would you want to put flat spots on your $150 each tires fine tuning your trailer brakes by locking them up then backing off. Start with the minimum adjustment first, then adjust forward for more braking.

MMayleben wrote:
Ok good deal, thank you everyone for the information!

So dial back about .5 (that's the increments on my factory controller) from when the wheels lock up? I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't burn my trailer brakes up quickly if I used too much brake. This helps a lot.

I've been using that method for 20+ years, and I've never burned up my brakes. But I can make a very sudden stop if the situation warrants it.

Jim

Ok good deal, thank you everyone for the information!

So dial back about .5 (that's the increments on my factory controller) from when the wheels lock up? I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't burn my trailer brakes up quickly if I used too much brake. This helps a lot.

Do as mentioned but I prefer doing it on gravel to get a better idea of how much the brakes grab.

donn0128 wrote:
Level parking lot. Accelerate to 25MPH, manually apply trailer brakes. Wheels lock? If yes, back off gain. If no, increase gain. If at maximum gain they won't lock up, adjust brakes and start again.

To be honest I would adjust to the minimum first so you don't get flat spots on you tires if they lock up.

donn0128 wrote:
Level parking lot. Accelerate to 25MPH, manually apply trailer brakes. Wheels lock? If yes, back off gain. If no, increase gain. If at maximum gain they won't lock up, adjust brakes and start again.

^X2 This is the proper way to set your brakes. Don't worry about them pulling or pushing on the hitch. You want them to be able to assist in stopping the vehicle in the shortest distance possible without the trailer brakes locking up.

Jim