Dry Camping Power

Soundguy the 2000k would not meet my needs. My first "ride" was a class C diesel with dual block heaters. Those needed to be run for 3 hours so the 2k would surge out. The 2200k did not exist in 2000.

It is FAR cheaper to go to a campground than to feed a generator. In hindsight I should have gone to massive solar. It would have been much cheaper.

pianotuna wrote:
I am a generator hater. Here is why:

1. Kipor 2800 T--$1300 fob Regina lasted 9 years, four repairs.
2. Boliy $1400 FOB Florida lasted less than 3 months
3. Yamaha 2800 with a Pinella remote $3400 fob Regina Stolen
4. Yamaha 2800 with Pinella remote, and security cage $4300 fob Regina. Broke a weld on the rear bumper, so I'm having that fixed soon. I.E. a new bumper made from two 102" x 3" x 3" steel welded to the main frame. It won't be cheap--but it won't break this time round.

The figures above do not include fuel, oil or maintenance.

OR you could have bit the bullet in the first place & invested in a light weight Honda EU2000i (now the even better EU2200i) inverter generator and likely run it for 20 yrs with little more than regular oil changes. :W

I would get the victron 350 watt pure sine wave inverter, and mate it to an upgraded battery bank and add 400 watts of solar.

I am a generator hater. Here is why:

1. Kipor 2800 T--$1300 fob Regina lasted 9 years, four repairs.
2. Boliy $1400 FOB Florida lasted less than 3 months
3. Yamaha 2800 with a Pinella remote $3400 fob Regina Stolen
4. Yamaha 2800 with Pinella remote, and security cage $4300 fob Regina. Broke a weld on the rear bumper, so I'm having that fixed soon. I.E. a new bumper made from two 102" x 3" x 3" steel welded to the main frame. It won't be cheap--but it won't break this time round.

The figures above do not include fuel, oil or maintenance.

compared to 256 watts of solar $1700 which has cost exactly ZERO since 2005. This could be replaced today for $300.

Generator run time was less than 100 hours.

If you need the air--go to an inexpensive campground.

oyarsa wrote:
Thanks for all the advice and thoughts!

I was worried people might not realize that is an inverter generator based on the link description. I should have been clearer.

To be honest, cost is an issue right now. If I were to forego air conditioning and simply aim for having the outlets powered and particularly at times when the generator wouldn't be running, what would be suggested? A power inverter sounds like the place to start, and a smaller generator...

oyarsa wrote:
Thanks for all the advice and thoughts!

I was worried people might not realize that is an inverter generator based on the link description. I should have been clearer.

To be honest, cost is an issue right now. If I were to forego air conditioning and simply aim for having the outlets powered and particularly at times when the generator wouldn't be running, what would be suggested? A power inverter sounds like the place to start, and a smaller generator...

64 db isn't the quiet type suitcase inverter generator

Ralph Cramden wrote:
Oh sweet Jesus

That's helpful :R

Install USB ports directly connected to your 12VDC RV wiring. That will help charge any USB cabled devices, i.e. phones, tablets, etc.

You will still run down your batteries unless you have a way to recharge them. Solar or generator or both are the real options if you do not have any shore power connections. Solar is very nice once setup as you don't have to really do anything where your batteries will be charging during the day if the panels are in the sun. Con is the cost but you could do a reasonable 200W system with 2 GC2 6V batteries and accomodate most lower power electronic items with a reasonable 1500W inverter. Forget the air conditioner, microwave, hair dryer, electric coffee maker or other items with heating elements. But again, the con is the price. What I've listed out would cost somewhere in the range of $1000 - $1200 US dollars if you install it yourself. Honestly though, dry camping with solar is worth the price compared to listening to even the quietest generator.

A 2000W inverter generator would run most of the items in your RV minus the air conditioner however there are some reporting running an A/C on a 2000W inverter generator. Best bet there would be a single 13.5k A/C with an Easy-Start and running at lower altitudes and even then it may not work but many report good luck with that.

I have (2) Champion 2000W Inverter Generators with a parallel kit to combine them and have been mostly happy with them. I wish there were some high altitude jets for them but the price was difficult to pass up when I bought them a few years ago. They are reasonably quiet but they are now backup to my solar panels or if I need to run the A/C.

Oh sweet Jesus

Thanks for all the advice and thoughts!

I was worried people might not realize that is an inverter generator based on the link description. I should have been clearer.

To be honest, cost is an issue right now. If I were to forego air conditioning and simply aim for having the outlets powered and particularly at times when the generator wouldn't be running, what would be suggested? A power inverter sounds like the place to start, and a smaller generator...

SoundGuy wrote:

Boomerweps wrote:
Studies have shown that it generally takes +10dB to be perceived as twice as loud (psycho-acoustics). For most, it takes a +6dB change for people to easily notice a loudness difference.

Spent my career in sound and can easily detect a 3 db difference. Regardless, the point is the open frame genset the OP has selected has a synchronous motor that runs at a constant (and teeth rattling) speed of 3600 rpm regardless of load so it's always noisy. An inverter genset will be dramatically quieter not only because of better baffling due to the case design but more often than not will be running much lower than it's max speed, thereby dramatically reducing noise.

If you would have followed the link the OP posted and read the details you would have realized that the generator in question "IS" an inverter generator that "DOES NOT" run at a "teeth rattling" constant 3600 rpm regardless of load - "thereby dramatically reducing the noise".
clicky

Boomerweps wrote:
Studies have shown that it generally takes +10dB to be perceived as twice as loud (psycho-acoustics). For most, it takes a +6dB change for people to easily notice a loudness difference.

Spent my career in sound and can easily detect a 3 db difference. ;) Regardless, the point is the open frame genset the OP has selected has a synchronous motor that runs at a constant (and teeth rattling) speed of 3600 rpm regardless of load so it's always noisy. :M An inverter genset will be dramatically quieter not only because of better baffling due to the case design but more often than not will be running much lower than it's max speed, thereby dramatically reducing noise.