E2 vs Equalizer vs Blue Ox

The coupler isn't inverted on my 23RB.

Hannibal wrote:

Atlee wrote:
Since you have made your decision, my input is no longer pertinent. That said, I have experience with Equal-i-zer and Blue Ox.

I had used the Equal-i-zer on two trailers, and had intended to use them on my new Jayco 23RB. However the dealer said the plate the plates that mounted on the tongue were two short, and he'd either have to order larger ones which would take a couple of days to arrive, or he could sell me and put on a Blue Ox WDH.
Reluctantly, I went with the Blue Ox.

Having had both, I will say if wish I had the Equal-i-zer hitch on my new trailer.

I've tried to like the Blue Ox, but I can't.Hate dealing with that cam and chain.

I'm still contemplating getting what ever added part I need and put the Equal-i-zer back on.

The one draw back to the Equal=i-zer is if you go up in tongue weight, you may have to get an entirely new hitch head. Bars are not interchangeable.

Acdii wrote:
Decision made. Found a 1500 BO from Camping World for $449. Since I am already close to 1000# with the hitch weight, and plan to mount the genny to the A frame, the 1500# one should work just fine. Will also be good in case I upgrade to a heavier trailer in the next few years.

If the 23RB has an inverted coupler like my 28RLS, turn the A frame brackets over for proper reach.

According to the Ford OM, and the Husky manual, the Husky was setup correctly, I had transferred front fender back 50% as Ford stated. Now I returned 100% back to the front and also was able to remove weight back to the trailer, something the Husky never did with either truck. The same setup on the 16 that was on the 14 was completely off, so had to redo the setup. The manual states the tips to be a certain height off the ground, a certain distance between tips and the frame when hitched, and a certain percentage returned forward, which I did, so according to the manual, it was properly setup. Worked perfectly on the 14 this way.

Weight on the 14 front axle was 3180, weight on the 16 was also 3180. Empty with no trailer, the front axle on the 16 is 3240, the 14 being RWD, was 3180. Setting it to 3180 as I had in the 14 worked, no sway, but handled like ****, which turned out to be the EPAS and really had nothing to do with the WDH setup at all.

My problem was never sway, the problem was this wishy washy feeling with the nose of the truck doing figure 8's, and eventually after enough of this the trailer would do a wiggle, the sway bar would pop and the truck would settle down, then start all over again. I discovered that with 1000 pounds in the bed, distributed in such a way to mirror when the trailer was connected, the truck exhibited the exact same sensation, but without the pop and wiggle from the trailer. This was all due to the drift control acting up in the EPAS.

Here is what I had on the 14,
Front without, 3000, with 3180, Empty 3180.
Rear without, 4560, with 4300, Empty 2800
GCWR 12760 <<--had the entire family in the truck.

Here is the 16,
Front without, 3000, with 3160, Empty 3240
Rear without, 4060, with 3800, Empty 2760
GCWR 12440

In both cases the fender height is what Ford recommended in the OM.

Now with the BO installed,
Front, 3240, empty 3240
Rear, 3420, empty 2760.
GCWR 12300

The last weigh was without my wife, so there is a 140 pound difference in GCWR between the September weighing and the October weighing, but the trailer weighs the same. Also the BO setup is with returning the fender back to unhitched height.

Now here's the kicker, when I tightened the Husky up to put more weight forward, fender height at empty measurement, the very first time I took it out, the trailer would start to sway when I reached 65 or more, and I had to reduce the spring tension to get rid of it.

So with the Husky and springs returning all the weight forward, the trailer swayed! Reducing it removed the sway. My guess is that with too light a bar the tension on the bars being curved like they were, and the angle of the head being off because of the difference between the RWD and 4WD trucks, was the cause. Once I reconfigured the head to give more rear tilt to get tension on the springs correctly, removed all the sway. Since I didn't weigh it at the time, I will never know if it moved too much off the ball. Head height didn't change between the trucks either, used the same holes in the shank.

The most notable thing is, with the Husky, the most I returned to the trailer was 80 pounds, with both trucks, but the BO moved 240 pounds back.

There is a spreadsheet that I found that you input your scale weights, your gross weights and the empty weights and it calculates ball percentage, axle percentages, etc. The truck is right on target now. It was pretty much on target with the Husky too, but the new Fords are so damned sensitive that you have to get them dead on, or they get squirrley.

So IOW, if Ford had fixed the EPAS before I replaced the hitch, chances are good the Husky would have worked fine as it was.

Glad you got it figured out.:) One comment however:
You stated on 09/09/17, in response to a suggestion to re-do your hitch set-up:
"Wont help. Already went through the entire process, and have the WD setup properly.".

Now in this post above you say:
"Best part is I gained 400# of payload in the truck now that it is actually properly distributed. The 800# bars were too light for this truck and trailer, they would have to touch the frame to get it anywhere near where the BO is now. Returned the weight forward to where it should be, and returned a near equal amount back to the trailer. I do know there is no sway at all, even when I try to induce it."

If it is properly distributed now then I suggest it was not properly distributed way back last September when you first started posting about it. Were you just guessing about the weights then or had you already been to a scale and gotten actual readings?

I have a feeling that your problem this whole time has probably been improper hitch setup or possibly not enough tongue weight. Anyway, regardless of what was, is, or has been, I am glad you got it straightened out and can now enjoy a smooth towing experience. :)
Barney

Acdii wrote:

...snip...

This spring I will know if the calibration is good when I make a turn, the wheel should return to center and not sit canted like it has been.

Thanks for the followup.

When I set up my blue ox the first time, in the beginning I got it "too tight", transferring too much weight to the steer axle. It was over 100% FALR, and the sensation you speak of was present: the truck steering did not want to return to center coming out of a corner.
Backing off the WD to where I was just at 100% FALR resulted in correct steering feel and response.

I never updated this. I got the BO and installed it. Took it for a drive on a windy day, then scaled it. All weights and measurements were dead on. Since it was windy with strong crosswinds, I cannot say if all issues were resolved, however, Ford service did find that the EPAS needed to be recalibrated, so I am pretty sure now all issues are corrected. The wander when loaded is gone, and that was the biggest issue, with the truck wandering with a load in the bed, hooking a trailer that equals what the load was, that wander translates to the trail causing it to misbehave, and even the BO would not correct that. If I didn't have crosswinds on my test drive, I have a feeling that the wander would have still been present, but not as bad as it was with the Husky. The EPAS issue would explain why the Husky didn't work as well as it did on the 14.

Best part is I gained 400# of payload in the truck now that it is actually properly distributed. The 800# bars were too light for this truck and trailer, they would have to touch the frame to get it anywhere near where the BO is now. Returned the weight forward to where it should be, and returned a near equal amount back to the trailer. I do know there is no sway at all, even when I try to induce it.

This spring I will know if the calibration is good when I make a turn, the wheel should return to center and not sit canted like it has been.

This is what they recalibrated http://www.blueovalconnect.com/graphics/3-13-09/pull-drift-compensation.pdf

The repair was done after my road test.

Acdii wrote:
I have a decision to make. I currently have a Husky round bar, with 800# bars and a single sway. My older truck which got wrecked, worked perfectly with this hitch and trailer, but my replacement 2016, it does not. After much troubleshooting, and going through setup time and again, it has been determined that the bars are just too light for this truck.

So instead of getting heavier bars, I am just going to replace the hitch, and narrowed it down to these three.

I have not heard any bad about the E2 setup, and it has been recommended by a few RV dealers when I went price shopping. However, considering its the lowest priced one, is it really as good as the Equalizer?

Since the E2 and Equalizer are similar to each other, but different from the Blue Ox, what makes the BO worth the extra $100-200 for it?

Reading reviews, the Equalizer is loud, the E2 makes noise, but not as loud, and the BO is quiet, but can be a hassle attaching the chains, causing injuries if not careful tightening the bracket.

It's true that the Equal-I-Zer is somewhat loud, but the company now has inserts that go on the trailer end that minimize any noise. Not sure if they also reduce friction that negates sway characteristics. I think that I am going to buy a set and try them.

My tongue weight is 820, the generator is another 80, the weight of the hitch is 90, and my LP tanks were nearly empty, so add in at least another 40 pounds, and I am over 1000, so I got the correct bars.

Acdii wrote:
Money talks in this case. I was able to find a BO for less than the Equalizer. Delivered with shipping and taxes came out to $514. I could not find an Equalizer for that or less.

The Cam is the one thing that I read about a lot, but being prepared for it eliminates surprises. As long as it does what it is supposed to, and keep the trailer locked in, I will be happy with it. Already deal with chains and tip ups with the current hitch, so won't be much different, still have to jack the whole thing up now.

BTW, I may have discovered the reason for the weird oscillations while towing, the steering is the cause. On a smooth road I found that if I jerk the wheel a little to the left, it will pull to the left, and if I jerk it to the right, it will pull to the right. On a bumpy road, this is what it is doing without me jerking on the wheel. I swapped out the wheels and tires that have 68K miles on them with the wheels and tires the truck came with that have 4K on them, one has 20 miles as it was bad, and now it just pulls a bit to the left, probably because I got the pressures wrong when I added air, 42 on the right and 39 & 40 on the left. It no longer will pull to the right if I jerk the wheel, it will still pull to the left.

Hoping it is just that, worn treads on hard tires. The tires I pulled off were Bridgestone Duellers in 20" diameter, and have served me well for 3 years, and were great on the 2014 when towing, and were doing well until recently on the 16. The ones that came on the 16 are the Goodyear Wranglers LT, and they are soft and loud. I don't like the noise or the ride, which is one of the reasons I removed them, first was they had a bad vibrations, hence the tire with 20 miles, the other is I don't like the 18" chrome wheels, and the third, the soft handling.

They will do until I can replace the other tires.

You say money talks but you might have too heavy wd bars possibly causing the trailer A frame flex or your truck suspension working too hard. Remember the wd bars are supposed to flex, i.e. torsion bars, the 1,000 lb bars would have been adequate. If you go to a trailer with higher tongue weight you upgrade the hitch.

Atlee wrote:
Since you have made your decision, my input is no longer pertinent. That said, I have experience with Equal-i-zer and Blue Ox.

I had used the Equal-i-zer on two trailers, and had intended to use them on my new Jayco 23RB. However the dealer said the plate the plates that mounted on the tongue were two short, and he'd either have to order larger ones which would take a couple of days to arrive, or he could sell me and put on a Blue Ox WDH.
Reluctantly, I went with the Blue Ox.

Having had both, I will say if wish I had the Equal-i-zer hitch on my new trailer.

I've tried to like the Blue Ox, but I can't.Hate dealing with that cam and chain.

I'm still contemplating getting what ever added part I need and put the Equal-i-zer back on.

The one draw back to the Equal=i-zer is if you go up in tongue weight, you may have to get an entirely new hitch head. Bars are not interchangeable.

Acdii wrote:
Decision made. Found a 1500 BO from Camping World for $449. Since I am already close to 1000# with the hitch weight, and plan to mount the genny to the A frame, the 1500# one should work just fine. Will also be good in case I upgrade to a heavier trailer in the next few years.

If the 23RB has an inverted coupler like my 28RLS, turn the A frame brackets over for proper reach.

Money talks in this case. I was able to find a BO for less than the Equalizer. Delivered with shipping and taxes came out to $514. I could not find an Equalizer for that or less.

The Cam is the one thing that I read about a lot, but being prepared for it eliminates surprises. As long as it does what it is supposed to, and keep the trailer locked in, I will be happy with it. Already deal with chains and tip ups with the current hitch, so won't be much different, still have to jack the whole thing up now.

BTW, I may have discovered the reason for the weird oscillations while towing, the steering is the cause. On a smooth road I found that if I jerk the wheel a little to the left, it will pull to the left, and if I jerk it to the right, it will pull to the right. On a bumpy road, this is what it is doing without me jerking on the wheel. I swapped out the wheels and tires that have 68K miles on them with the wheels and tires the truck came with that have 4K on them, one has 20 miles as it was bad, and now it just pulls a bit to the left, probably because I got the pressures wrong when I added air, 42 on the right and 39 & 40 on the left. It no longer will pull to the right if I jerk the wheel, it will still pull to the left.

Hoping it is just that, worn treads on hard tires. The tires I pulled off were Bridgestone Duellers in 20" diameter, and have served me well for 3 years, and were great on the 2014 when towing, and were doing well until recently on the 16. The ones that came on the 16 are the Goodyear Wranglers LT, and they are soft and loud. I don't like the noise or the ride, which is one of the reasons I removed them, first was they had a bad vibrations, hence the tire with 20 miles, the other is I don't like the 18" chrome wheels, and the third, the soft handling.

They will do until I can replace the other tires.