On our new 5er it has a battery disconnect switch but doesn't shut every thing off. Just had a RV carport built but to far away from ac power to plug in. So thinking maybe a solar charger to keep the batteries charged plus the demand. Or another disconnect switch directly off the battery to totally disconnect them and maybe a small solar charger.I don't want to pull the batteries because I do check things every 3 or 4 weeks inside and out during storage just making sure there's no problems with anything. What do you do? Your thoughts?

I like the solar charger idea. say a 100 watt panel should handle most if not all. monitor the voltage (battery) and if you see it start to drop go to 200 watts of panel but I think 100 will do it. DO not forget a good charge controller for a 100 watt panel you need a 10 amp controller minimum. I'd not go bigger than 20 amp for the controller or the loss in the box will be too great. MPPT is best.

How far away from the nearest outlet IS it ?I suggest that a long extension cord and a small "Battery Tender", or equivalent, maintenance charger would be best. Probably would keep them charged OK if connected only a day or two a month.

I, also think that the solar charger is a great option. But, make certain that your charge controller has a “float” mode, as “”not” to overcharge (cook) your batteries. I went really cheap on my hydraulic dump trailer ( no electrical power where I keep it parked), a very small panel, and an “el-cheapo” controller. Ruined a battery in less than two years. memtb

Google "solar battery tender"It's a small solar panel and charge controller that simply floats the battery. I would recommed that you top your batteries with DISTILLED WATER while you are preparing for storage and again at the beginning of next season.

Solar would be a good idea. I go simple and disconnect the battery cable between my batteries (dual 6 volters) when in storage. One nut, only takes a minute on mine.

House batteries (has 2) durning storage. | Good Sam Community

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Sep 02, 2019
I like the solar charger idea. say a 100 watt panel should handle most if not all. monitor the voltage (battery) and if you see it start to drop go to 200 watts of panel but I think 100 will do it. DO not forget a good charge controller for a 100 watt panel you need a 10 amp controller minimum. I'd not go bigger than 20 amp for the controller or the loss in the box will be too great. MPPT is best.
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
How far away from the nearest outlet IS it ?

I suggest that a long extension cord and a small "Battery Tender", or equivalent, maintenance charger would be best. Probably would keep them charged OK if connected only a day or two a month.
memtb
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
I, also think that the solar charger is a great option. But, make certain that your charge controller has a “float” mode, as “”not” to overcharge (cook) your batteries. I went really cheap on my hydraulic dump trailer ( no electrical power where I keep it parked), a very small panel, and an “el-cheapo” controller. Ruined a battery in less than two years. memtb
PNW_Steve
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
Google "solar battery tender"

It's a small solar panel and charge controller that simply floats the battery.

I would recommed that you top your batteries with DISTILLED WATER while you are preparing for storage and again at the beginning of next season.
camperdave
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
Solar would be a good idea. I go simple and disconnect the battery cable between my batteries (dual 6 volters) when in storage. One nut, only takes a minute on mine.
PNW_Steve
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
wa8yxm wrote:
I like the solar charger idea. say a 100 watt panel should handle most if not all. monitor the voltage (battery) and if you see it start to drop go to 200 watts of panel but I think 100 will do it. DO not forget a good charge controller for a 100 watt panel you need a 10 amp controller minimum. I'd not go bigger than 20 amp for the controller or the loss in the box will be too great. MPPT is best.

Don't follow my example....... I was in a pinch for storage so I moved my Bluebird to a lot with no power. I knew I needed a battery maintainer but to get me by until I ordered one I connected a stray 80 watt panel directly to the batteries (3x group 31) with no charge controller.

I got away with it. I think that if it had not been November -December in the Seattle area I would have boiled three batteries... Shame on me for taking two months to get the correct maintainer....
ajriding
Explorer II
Sep 02, 2019
Solar , yes.

15 watts might be enough to just tend it. I'd go 50 since it is winter an overcast and low angle of the sun.

Why not just spend a little more and have a full functioning solar system? 200 watts minimum, a good controller (MPPT or PWM) and 10-12 gauge wires.

Even if I am in a campground I will not plug in unless I want to run the AC, this is because their electrical might be so dirty it could damage my camper… Solar gives you options
opnspaces
Navigator II
Sep 02, 2019
Yes solar or even cheaper with a second disconnect switch at the batteries.

If you go for the second disconnect make sure you wire it so that the emergency breakaway if equipped still has power. So you wiring path should be (Positive terminal --> emergency breakaway --> cutoff switch --> trailer)

The emergency breakaway doesn't pull any power unless the pin is pulled. You want the breakaway to function even if you forget to connect the batteries before towing.
PNW_Steve
Explorer
Sep 02, 2019
Opnspaces makes a good point. You need to make sure that you accommodate the breakaway brakes.

I put a 300 watt panel, Renogy Rover MPPT charge controller and 2 GC-2's on my 5er like Ajriding suggested. When stored it sits at 13.6-13.8volts float. I have been monitoring it and feel comfortable leaving it running over the Winter.
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Sep 04, 2019
OK folks set me up with a scenario where I could hook up and hit the road with the battery disconnected? I guess it is possible to do that somehow.