how do I repair a stripped out screw hole in the wall

If you have stripped holes in thicker material (wood), try golf tees and glue.
Coat the tee with glue, insert into the hole (use a hammer to get it well seated). Let it dry and cut the excess off and you have a good surface for a screw.

Use pop rivets. It works great for just about anything that was only anchored with screws in 1/4 walls to begin with. Very simple, cheap, and better than new.

JJBIRISH wrote:
I to use the toothpick trick, but that isn’t the answer for your promlem…

Screws will never hold well in thin wood paneling… you need to install one of the the types of wall mollies available to hold especially while bouncing down the highways…

I have used the one in the middle a few times and they work great, toggles are good so long as whats being held has a flat area the size of the toggle when using on thin paneling, but the hole is far bigger than the screw and if there is a possibility of the item moving it eventually will.

I have a few of these in my toolbox in the trailer just in case

The Texan wrote:

in5r wrote:
One piece of advice if using the hollow type wall anchor "molly bolt" take into consideration the thickness of the luan panel it will be clamping to. It needs to fully clamp down on both sides of the panel.

And that is the problem in an RV, that is insulated with high density foam. I have yet to find a molly that is both short enough and will expand properly, into the high density insulation on our RV.

Not if you use a tool meant to expand and set moly bolts or like me a cut off bolt the size of the threads in the moly and then one end ground down to fit in a pop rivet tool and just like setting a pop rivet you do the same to set the moly bolt. This also prevents the anchors on the moly bolt face from gouging out the wall before the moly bolt anchor is sit.

Larry

Previous owners rotated the chair in the living area without sliding it away from the wall/window first. They knocked the bottom right day/night shade bracket out of the wall(best described as a clear plastic thread spool with hole through center for the screw). It splintered the louann wall board and left a 3/4" ragged hole in the wall. Since this must withstand constant tension from the blind cord that's wound around the spool, we need a solution that will hold really well. Thought a Toggler Snap Toggle like pictured in this thread might be the solution, but the metal toggle looks like it might be too long to go inside the wall and then turn vertically so it can be tightened down. Anyone know the depth of the inside wall space? Has this been a problem for anyone else?

JJBIRISH wrote:
I to use the toothpick trick, but that isn’t the answer for your promlem…

Screws will never hold well in thin wood paneling… you need to install one of the the types of wall mollies available to hold especially while bouncing down the highways…

It this photo there are two "Molly anchors" and a "Toggle Bolt".

The toggle bolt is a "one time" device; if you remove the screw, the toggle falls down inside the wall.

The Mollys are forever.

Thats what we are using in our new TT. No holes will be drilled where they will be noticable. I'll have to have it for a while before I drill holes in the walls.

Lots of drilling and tearing up the walls in this thread.... I use those 3M Contact strips for just about everything, in the TT and at home. I've never had any fail on me and doesn't mess up the walls.
I did try to mount a paper towel holder in the Outdoor Kitchen of my TT with those and I'm guessing the leverage of it sticking out and lookiing back I should have taken the towels off while traveling, but it made the wall paper seperate a little, I removed the strips and smoothed the paper back down, all is good now. I remounted it under the cabinet with the strips and has been there ever since.

On the thin wall of an RV, I'm not a fan of inserts... They never seem to hold well for me. Wing nuts aren't reusable.

Snap toggles, on the other hand...



They stay in place even if you remove the screw, so they're completely reusable as many times as necessary. At work, I have a 52" TV hung from a metal-stud drywall wall using just four of those snap-toggles. I've personally hung off the mount myself without an issue. I'd be more worried about the whole wall falling over than the TV coming off the wall.

I have shimed, I've used hollow wall anchors and pop-rivet nuts (These are special nuts that work like pop rivets,, You screw a special bolt into them, insert in hole in wall,, POP with POP tool, and unscrew the special bolt (Which fits in the pop tool, NOTE you do not squeeze hard enough to break the pin like a regular pop rivet) and then use a bolt instead of as screw that hole.

This works best in sheet metal though, not fiberglass or wood.

Different "Strokes" for different holes in different materials.