New electric pedestal at home

I also recommend while pulling the wire, pull 3 current carrying and a GROUND wire. Even if you only wire up HOT and NEUTRAL now, the extra HOT wire will be there if you ever decide to upgrade to 50 amp. You won't have to pull wire again. The extra wire won't be that much more expensive.

(I needed a 30 amp outlet at home, but I pulled 6/3 wG and wired in a 50/30/20 box. If I ever upgrade to a 50 amp trailer, I am already set.)

routeforty wrote:
Thanks to everyone for the responses. I think I will need to run a 2" conduit with #10,8,&6 wire for what ever the current or future needs may be ;). Just kidding-was hoping(dreaming) I could get by with 10 wire, but have decided to go with 6. Don't plan on ever needing 50amp, as we just bought a new Class C, and neither I or DW care for class As, but who knows what the future holds. A 125' roll of 6 wire is only about $50 more at Lowes than 8-I just hate to work with wire that big :( . Next question is-this will all be under concrete, so could it lay on top of the ground(the conduit with wire inside)and pour the slab on top of it or should I dig a small trench to put it in. Gary

I'd suggest to dig a trench and bury the conduit with 4" of fill over the top. The $50 difference in price of the two wire sizes will make retrofit or adding circuits worth the price of the 6AWG. I'd also suggest to plan out your pull. You can pull through sections and glue up while placing the conduit. I've done that when I am alone and have larger wire with multiple bends. It is easier than a continuous pull with the snake.

Just run conduit big enough so if you do want to upgrade to higher service it will just be pulling new wire.

10 gauge would be fine. It will pull 30 amps.

hypoxia wrote:

routeforty wrote:
Probably will never be 50amp but who knows?

Everyone I know with 30 amps wishes they had put in 50 amp service. It's just the nature of the beast. Even smaller campers are coming with 50 amp cords now.

I put 30 amp RV at the house and am in the process of putting in 50 amp so I can run all 3 A/C's there. I have four 50 amp RV services out back but that doesn't do me any good when I load or unload at the house when it's 2000 degrees outside.:S I run the generator now but sometimes the lady of the house doesn't want to git-r done for hours.

I agree. Plus you will probably add a level 2 EVSE for electric vehicle charging in the next decade. The two 240 50 amp circuit will be a huge advantage there. Even if you don’t use it it would be a plus for resale.

So you overkill with #6 for 30 amps and then can't spring for a trencher rental??
Do it right and have it inspected.

#8 in conduit will be good up to 125ft. I ran #10 for my 30A outlet which is approx. a 50ft run. I’m sure I’ll eventually have a 50A RV. At that point I’ll just run the RV with a 30-50 adapter. Yes I won’t be able to run everything at once, but I’m not camping in my driveway. I’ll just be using it to get ready for trips!

routeforty wrote:
Thanks to everyone for the responses. I think I will need to run a 2" conduit with #10,8,&6 wire for what ever the current or future needs may be ;). Just kidding-was hoping(dreaming) I could get by with 10 wire, but have decided to go with 6. Don't plan on ever needing 50amp, as we just bought a new Class C, and neither I or DW care for class As, but who knows what the future holds. A 125' roll of 6 wire is only about $50 more at Lowes than 8-I just hate to work with wire that big :( . Next question is-this will all be under concrete, so could it lay on top of the ground(the conduit with wire inside)and pour the slab on top of it or should I dig a small trench to put it in. Gary

Q. What is the minimum depth for placing Schedule 40 PVC conduit below a concrete slab?

A. If it's under a building, there is no depth requirement. If it's placed outside under a concrete slab, then the minimum cover is 4 inches Table 300.5 National Electrical Code.

For burying long runs of wire there are powered wire trenching machines you might be able to rent. They are rototiller size or smaller that work like a ditch witch.

There are also long flat shovel like hand tools used to make narrow ditch like openings in the ground so the wire can be burried. Like this one.

Do not just pour concrete over the conduit. At a minimum that means the concrete will be thinner over it. Around here, electrical needs to be 24” below grade.