Wife and I have been without an RV for a couple of years are are ready to get back in the game.Current tow vehicle is a 2017 F150, supercrew, 5.0 liter, 3.55 rear, 4x4. It has to tow package that comes with equipment group 302A as well as integrated brake controller and electronic sway controller. The 2017 Ford towing guides shows my truck to have 9,000 pound maximum trailer weight for conventional towing. My payload sticker shows 1,875 lbs. Hitch is rated for 500lbs without WDH or 1,100 lbs with.Looking at two trailers that I am sure are within this trucks capabilities, just wondering if I am going to be more comfortable pulling the lighter/shorter camper or I would even notice the difference. Going to use an Equalizer WDH.First trailer is a Flagstaff Microlite 21FBRS:UVH 4296Hitch Weight 415GVWR 5799Length 21' 7"Second is a Grand Design 2150 RB:UVW 5195 lbsHitch Weight* 427 lbsGVWR 6695 lbsLength** 26' 9"Height 10' 11"We would gladly settle from the Microlite, but the Grand design obviously has more space - just concerned about 27 ft of camper behind an aluminum half ton truck.I also find it odd that the Grand Design, being a thousand pounds heavier has a similar hitch weight. I assume both do not include propane bottles or battery.Thanks,Jack

First of all, the published hitch weights are almost meaningless. They often don't include the propane or batteries and never include anything you put in the front storage compartment. With that in mind, the Flagstaff should put about 690 lbs. on the ball and the Imagine about 800 lbs. In either case, you will need a weight-distributing hitch for multiple reasons. The best way to calculate your payload (stickers don't reflect true weights with occupants, full fuel, junk, etc.) is to weigh your truck at the nearest CAT scale with all that stuff on board. Add in another 100 lbs. or so for a good WD hitch and subtract from the truck's GVWR (and subtract the rear axle weight from the GVWRR). These numbers will tell you what you really have left over for payload.With all 1/2-ton and many 3/4-ton trucks you will reach the payload max before you reach the max towing capacity. If you can stay within the payload limits - especially the rear axle of the truck - fully loaded, I think you will be fine with either trailer (and the Imagines are nice... but I'm prejudiced).Rob

The Flagstaff would be an easy tow for the most part, but the GD unit would work as long as you didn't carry too much in the truck. GD tongue weight is dangerously low particularly if loaded anywhere near GVWR. Best towing results are attained when tongue weight is 12-15 percent of TT weight. If fully loaded to GVWR the GD unit will eat up a major portion of available payload, if you don't tend to over pack you may be able stay within limits. Good luck and enjoy whatever new rig you get.

Will you be moving often? Will your favorite CGs and/or those you expect use be ok with a 27 foot box and about 31 feet overall? Any chance you could pull the bigger one around for a bit to make some right and left turns at intersections? On the otherside of this discussion, my TT has 22 feet of box and if we didn't move often I'd want a longer unit. We stay in lots of smaller BLM, USFS and California parks.

Between the two, definitely the Grand Design. If the axles are located under the pantry, it stands the better chance of proper loading to bring tongue weight up to where it should be and a rear bath doesn't lend itself to automatically loading heavy aft of the axles like a rear kitchen. The 80" queen bed is a big plus. Store anything heavy ahead of the axles. Excellent choice of hitch as well. I've about talked myself into ordering an Equalizer for our rig. No drilling the frame and no question about whether it works as advertised.

Properly setup either will work great. contrary to popular belief you don't need a 3/4 ton for those TT's.JMO but I'd get the GD 2150RB. The 21FBRS has a built in sofa with exterior storage. If you don't like it after using it it will be really tough to replace.The 2150RB has a bigger bathroom, replaceable sofa and a closed off bedroom with a full size queen bed.Hands down a more user friendly TT with a good reputation for build quality and CS.

New F150, soliciting input before buying a TT | Good Sam Community

mbopp
Explorer
Jun 29, 2017
I wouldn't worry about pulling either trailer with that truck.
And between the two, it would be the GD 2150 hands down. There are some pretty active GD and GD Imagine groups on Facebook.
LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Jun 29, 2017
jeshoffstall wrote:

Current tow vehicle is a 2017 F150....integrated brake controller and electronic sway controller....9,000 pound maximum trailer weight....payload 1,875 lbs. Hitch 1,100 lbs with WDH.

Looking at two trailers
Flagstaff Microlite 21FBRS:
GVWR 5799

Grand Design 2150 RB:
GVWR 6695 lbs

Thanks,
Jack

Jack,
As another said, unloaded tongue weight is pretty meaningless because it never exists after the trailer leaves the factory. Most TT's put about 15% of the GVWR on the tongue of the trailer.

At max load the Microlite will have about 870 lbs on the tongue, and the Grand Design 1000 lbs. Bot are well within the limits on your receiver and the GVWR of both trailers is well within the GCWR of the truck.

The simple answer is you can definitely tow either trailer just fine with your truck. Get a good WD hitch, set it up properly, and go camping.

KJ
jeshoffstall
Explorer
Jun 29, 2017
Sandia Man wrote:
The Flagstaff would be an easy tow for the most part, but the GD unit would work as long as you didn't carry too much in the truck. GD tongue weight is dangerously low particularly if loaded anywhere near GVWR. Best towing results are attained when tongue weight is 12-15 percent of TT weight. If fully loaded to GVWR the GD unit will eat up a major portion of available payload, if you don't tend to over pack you may be able stay within limits. Good luck and enjoy whatever new rig you get.

It would be myself, wife, two pugs, two bikes and a 65 qt cooler, will weigh the truck this weekend, live 15 min from a CAT scale.

Thanks!
jeshoffstall
Explorer
Jun 29, 2017
Lwiddis wrote:
Will you be moving often? Will your favorite CGs and/or those you expect use be ok with a 27 foot box and about 31 feet overall? Any chance you could pull the bigger one around for a bit to make some right and left turns at intersections? On the otherside of this discussion, my TT has 22 feet of box and if we didn't move often I'd want a longer unit. We stay in lots of smaller BLM, USFS and California parks.

Sorry, these are bumper to ball lengths. Previous owned a rear slide camper that pulled at 25 feet and extended to 30. Will be returning to many of those campgrounds.

So, 18 vs 22 ft box

Thanks!
goducks10
Explorer
Jun 29, 2017
Properly setup either will work great. contrary to popular belief you don't need a 3/4 ton for those TT's.
JMO but I'd get the GD 2150RB. The 21FBRS has a built in sofa with exterior storage. If you don't like it after using it it will be really tough to replace.
The 2150RB has a bigger bathroom, replaceable sofa and a closed off bedroom with a full size queen bed.
Hands down a more user friendly TT with a good reputation for build quality and CS.
Hannibal
Explorer
Jun 29, 2017
Between the two, definitely the Grand Design. If the axles are located under the pantry, it stands the better chance of proper loading to bring tongue weight up to where it should be and a rear bath doesn't lend itself to automatically loading heavy aft of the axles like a rear kitchen. The 80" queen bed is a big plus. Store anything heavy ahead of the axles. Excellent choice of hitch as well. I've about talked myself into ordering an Equalizer for our rig. No drilling the frame and no question about whether it works as advertised.
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Jun 29, 2017
Will you be moving often? Will your favorite CGs and/or those you expect use be ok with a 27 foot box and about 31 feet overall? Any chance you could pull the bigger one around for a bit to make some right and left turns at intersections? On the otherside of this discussion, my TT has 22 feet of box and if we didn't move often I'd want a longer unit. We stay in lots of smaller BLM, USFS and California parks.
Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Jun 29, 2017
The Flagstaff would be an easy tow for the most part, but the GD unit would work as long as you didn't carry too much in the truck. GD tongue weight is dangerously low particularly if loaded anywhere near GVWR. Best towing results are attained when tongue weight is 12-15 percent of TT weight. If fully loaded to GVWR the GD unit will eat up a major portion of available payload, if you don't tend to over pack you may be able stay within limits. Good luck and enjoy whatever new rig you get.
Second_Chance
Explorer II
Jun 29, 2017
First of all, the published hitch weights are almost meaningless. They often don't include the propane or batteries and never include anything you put in the front storage compartment. With that in mind, the Flagstaff should put about 690 lbs. on the ball and the Imagine about 800 lbs. In either case, you will need a weight-distributing hitch for multiple reasons. The best way to calculate your payload (stickers don't reflect true weights with occupants, full fuel, junk, etc.) is to weigh your truck at the nearest CAT scale with all that stuff on board. Add in another 100 lbs. or so for a good WD hitch and subtract from the truck's GVWR (and subtract the rear axle weight from the GVWRR). These numbers will tell you what you really have left over for payload.

With all 1/2-ton and many 3/4-ton trucks you will reach the payload max before you reach the max towing capacity. If you can stay within the payload limits - especially the rear axle of the truck - fully loaded, I think you will be fine with either trailer (and the Imagines are nice... but I'm prejudiced).

Rob

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