Just got a 2013 Toyota Tacoma double cab,auto trans..am trying to decide best way to tow,,trans pump or driveline disconnect..any input is appreciated..

I seem to recall reading more complaints about the disconnects than the pumps, even though there are many more pumps in use. Our Remco pump is currently installed in our 2011 RAV4, after removing it from our 2002 RAV4. It's been in service for a total of about 40,000 miles so far, without any hiccups to date.

I had a drive shaft disconnect on my S-10 pu, hated it. would be ok if you are willing to continuously crawl underneath to clean, oil, etc. the darn thing. IMHO you made a horrible decision to buy a potential toad that needs such modification, but that was your decision.every time I post this somebody claims that they don't have to crawl beneath theirs to service it. I would like to see them some times cause their arms have to be at least 5 feet long.bumpy

I had one on my Ranger for 11 years,no problems .

Bumpyroad wrote:I had a drive shaft disconnect on my S-10 pu, hated it. would be ok if you are willing to continuously crawl underneath to clean, oil, etc. the darn thing. IMHO you made a horrible decision to buy a potential toad that needs such modification, but that was your decision.every time I post this somebody claims that they don't have to crawl beneath theirs to service it. I would like to see them some times cause their arms have to be at least 5 feet long.bumpyThis is the issue that was/is reported by many, many users of the disconnect. I've never owned one and never will but, if you tow on completely clean, vacuumed roads with no mud, rain, debris, and any other possible contaminate that can get onto and into those splines, then you may have had some better luck with actually "reconnecting" them after a long days towing. But, many have had to do what Bumpyroad has had to do and that's get under the toad and clean the splines so that the unit will engage and you can then drive it away from the coach. As for the pump, well, I just don't feel like taking a chance on them either. I don't know what, if any failure rate there is on those pumps but, I personally just don't feel like taking the chance on damaging any transmission because the "one and only one failed was hooked to my car" type thing and, then, trying to deal with either entity, i.e. the auto manufacturer of the vehicle the pump was used on or, Remco, the pump manufacturer, trying to get someone to pay for three or four thousand dollars worth of damage. So, to us, it was very simple. BUT A VEHICLE THAT CAN BE FLAT TOWED. But, the OP already has his vehicle. So, he'll have to pick which way he equips it to tow. Scott

I forgot to mention before buying/installing a drive shaft disconnect, find somebody who will let you operate their vehicle to see how they like it. to re-engage it, you have to jam a fixed spline thingy into a rotating splined thingy which sort of sounds like using an osterizer to grind up ice.and while driving with it engaged, be on the listen for a ping/ping/ping sound which you will hear shortly before it disengages on you.I traded my S-10 in on my Dakota PU and later saw somebody driving it around town. I had an urge to ask him if he had ever been surprised with it jumping out of mesh. :)bumpy

Pump vs disconnect | Good Sam Community

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Sep 20, 2013
jerseyjim wrote:
I don't know why people simply don't research to find a vehicle that can be "toad" 4-down with little or no modification. It's not hard.

because that would be too simple?
of course when they ask for recommendations here they never initially state whether they want a stick shift or automatic, FWD, 4WD, AWD, etc.
bumpy :s
jerseyjim
Explorer
Sep 20, 2013
I don't know why people simply don't research to find a vehicle that can be "toad" 4-down with little or no modification. It's not hard.
moisheh
Explorer
Sep 19, 2013
We had a Tacoma from 2005 to 2009 with a disconnect. Had it installed at the factory in Omaha. Towed about 50,000 miles and it worked fine. That business of cleaning and siliconing every time is just nonsense. Maybe twice a year I would clean it and lube. Once I took it back to have it adjusted. They showed me how to adjust and once more it had to be adjusted. Once you do it a few times it almost falls into place. I think the problems reported here are from bad installation. What happened to the Remco factory? I know it was sold but where are they located now?

Moisheh
j-d
Explorer II
Sep 11, 2013
Glad to hear you're well and still into RVing! I've been a holdout for "factory towable" and dissed for it a few times. "You can do this/that, or I tow it anyway" but if there's (a) Warranty or (b) Auto Trans involved I just don't want the problems or even the worry.
It was a little easier for us than many, because we wanted a manual transmission anyway when we shopped for a pickup in 2009.
When you get the new rig, please be sure to post a picture!
brobox
Explorer
Sep 11, 2013
j-d wrote:
Chuck, I'm sorry this is how your toad worked out. We crossed when I was looking for a towable pickup and you were pleased with your setup at the time. I wanted a manual shift Tacoma and they didn't recommend towing so I went with a Frontier.

I remember us PM'ing a few years ago. The first year the disconnected worked perfect, after that it has been nothing but trouble. I wish it did work, I love towing the Tacoma, but the disconnect has really been a let down. We will be ordering a new Entegra soon, so a new toad to match will be purchased, but this time, factory towable.
j-d
Explorer II
Sep 11, 2013
Chuck, I'm sorry this is how your toad worked out. We crossed when I was looking for a towable pickup and you were pleased with your setup at the time. I wanted a manual shift Tacoma and they didn't recommend towing so I went with a Frontier.
brobox
Explorer
Sep 10, 2013
I have a Tacoma with a drive shaft disconnect and the disconnect is absolute JUNK! I am currently waiting parts to rebuild it for the THIRD time. This is the last time and I will be changing toads. If I didn't need the toad next month, it would be in the trash instead of waiting for a bearing. Save yourself the aggravation and being stuck without a toad and forget about the disconnect.

Forgot to mention....Bumpy is right, you DO have to spray cleaner and silicone spray every time you unhook and hook up. I had to have the drive shaft removed and taken apart to get a pebble out of the disconnect gear. The disconnect is terrible.!! I will be trading my Tacoma for a towable PU very soon. I love the Tacoma...HATE the disconnect.

Edit: I just saw that you have already installed the disconnect. I hope you have better luck with yours than I have with mine. A tip: watch for "Brake and Parts Cleaner" spray cans on sale at the auto parts stores and stock up. I use one or two cans per trip to keep the slide gear clean or it will not work. After the cleaning, spray with silicone so it slides easy or your cable will jam and bend.
T_bone1
Explorer II
Sep 09, 2013
Got the lite bar built and it works well..I even put a license plate lite on it!!Thanks a gain J Bragg..
T_bone1
Explorer II
Sep 07, 2013
Am going with the disconnect at DRIVESHAFT KING in Dallas,installed the base plates yesterday and have ran the wiring for tail lights,will install removable tail light bar when lights come in from amazon,how is that for a long sentence?Thanks to J R Bragg for his help!
j-d
Explorer II
Sep 04, 2013
I'd choose driveshaft disconnect for the reason above. Less $ downside risk. Proper maintenance should let the disconnect work OK.
And, I'm not sure there'll be a choice. When I look this truck up on REMCO, no Pump is offered, and the site says "may need a driveshaft disconnect" then refers to a couple vendors. Drive Shaft King OR Southwest Drivelines.

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