Forum Discussion

riven1950's avatar
riven1950
Explorer
Nov 06, 2018

question on cable pull tank valve drains

We are getting ready to go pick up our new GD Imagine TT next week.

Our current and previous TT's had / have exposed valves where you just pull a handle, pretty simple.

This new TT has the valves in the belly, supposed to keep them from freezing I was told.

I have never used a cable pull. I can see they would open when you pull the cable, but how do they close? I'm sure the person doing the walkthru will explain but thought more info is better.

Is there a way to test during the walk thru?

Yes, we plan on a detailed walk through.

By the way if you know of a good walk through checklist and could direct me to it that would be appreciated.

Thanks
  • I've had issues with the cable systems and I've had issues with a straight rod pull. Both were a PITA at the time because they both broke with a full tank. Use either enough and they will break. I wouldn't let a cable stop me from buying a trailer that I really like.
  • I haven't had any cable problems but the stem got really dry and tight in the bonnet. Some guys put a zerk in that bonnet area for grease. Craig
  • Thanks for all the hints and info. Looking forward to the new camper but hate the pdi part. We've come out good with the last 2 tt's at pdi or maybe just lucky. Hope it continues:)
  • We took delivery of our Montana High Country 7 weeks ago (toady). I was very familiar with travel trailers of all sorts and have spent years and years studying trailer designs and tried to keep up on latest technology. I've visited my local dealership's many, many times and done my own window shopping on their lots. In other words, I'm pretty knowledgeable about these new camper and such.

    So, looking back 7 weeks ago, what did I absolutely "miss" on my PDI and orientation?

    1st.... the leveling system. Although I recorded it, it was too fast and I still messed up when we got home. It took several days, YouTube videos, and reading the manuals to finally figure it out right. Now that I've got the system down, it's a no brainer. Learning was painful. If you've not deal with self-leveling systems before, make sure YOU do it with HIS instruction. Don't just watch ... YOU do it and I think that would have made all the difference in the world for me.

    Next, take the time to go through the service manuals and paper work for all the appliances they provide you. It was only after the fact I discovered I had no paper work on the refrigerator. All I have is a name brand and all the tags and labels or somewhere on the back or side where I can't see them. I'm still not sure what cubic feet this thing is.

    Mine came with an awning light. I had no clue how to attach it. It took me a couple weeks to finally figure it out, and even longer to figure out what switch actually turned it on. He never say anything about that light or the function of that electric bar on the awning. And by the way, my electric bar is on the arm, NOT the roller. So I had no clue that was even electrical. I did figure it out, it's pretty slick, I like it, but it sure would have been easier to have known how it attached and where the switch was from the get-go.

    I regret they did not hook up a water line to the camper. I discovered mine leaks at the connection. I haven't tried a new wash, and the camper goes back for a 3 month inspection in about 5 weeks, and we don't keep water connected except for filling the fresh tank. So, for the moment it's OK. But still, it's something they might have been able to fix right then.

    FYI, the black tank flusher connection, and the winter-by-pass connection don't leak. They are fine.

    He didn't explain the ice maker in the refrigerator, except he pointed out where the water cut-off valve was located. It would have been nice if he would have explained how to winterize it. When we go back in 5 week, I'll have them explain it then. Meanwhile, it's disconnected until next spring.

    He didn't explain the entertainment system at all, how the remote to the televisions work, or how the sound system worked. I've been reading the manuals, and slowly getting it figured out. A simple explanation of how to turn the TV on and OFF and adjust the sound would have been nice!

    Our 5er has 2 doors, one on each side of the trailer. The back drivers side door has a light above it. The front passenger side door has a light above it. We could get the front door light to come on, but somehow couldn't figure out the back door. I did ask the guy at PDI how to turn it on, he didn't know, said we'd eventually figure it out... well... he was right. Turns out the same switch that turns on the front door also turns on the back door light. I know, sounds so simple, but it wasn't simple to figure it out.

    Everything else he covered pretty good. And my knowledge of a life-time of association with travel trailers was helpful, and of course, years of tips and things folks talked about on these forums made my walk through very easy for him. I guess he figured, I'd figure out everything else... And in time ... I did.

    Everything is great now! At least, when it comes to the sound system, I now have a copy of the manual on my laptop computer where I can bring it up and blow the print up and actually READ it!
  • On the walk through video record everything that you are shown and told.Great task for the wife. Good luck
  • I have replaced mine with manual valves under the RV. Cable pulls WILL fail to perform.
  • riven1950 wrote:
    W

    I have never used a cable pull. I can see they would open when you pull the cable, but how do they close? I'm sure the person doing the walkthru will explain but thought more info is better.

    Thanks


    You're probably picturing a completely straight cable pulling the valve open, but that is not the case. It's not the cable alone that pushes the valve shut. It's a combination of the cable and the flexible sheath. The sheath is stiff enough that when you push on the cable it slides inside the sheath rather than just flexing to the side. Look at a 10 speed bike, there are loops in the shift cable yet it is able to push and pull the cable to change gears. Come to think of it, most front wheel drive cars use a cable on the automatic transmission gear selector too. But if you pulled the outer sheath off then the cable would just flop around and nothing would happen.
  • Good advice above already.......and, having the valves covered by the under-belly may or may not keep them from freezing..

    Be careful what the salesman tells you..
  • They are a push pull valve. Pull the handle to open, push the handle to close. Yes, they can be a pain in the *** to work if they get clogged or you do not lube the cable regularly. In 11 years I had an occasion to replace one out of three. Mainly due to the cable breaking at the handle.
  • riven1950 wrote:
    I have never used a cable pull. I can see they would open when you pull the cable, but how do they close? I'm sure the person doing the walkthru will explain but thought more info is better.


    Just push it back in. ;) The problem is later on when those cables begin to stick and you find it impossible to fully close the drain valves. Happened to me on my Spree, cut 'em off and replaced them with direct pull Valterra drain valve assemblies - problem solved. :B

About RV Tips & Tricks

Looking for advice before your next adventure? Look no further.25,108 PostsLatest Activity: Feb 05, 2025