About to go on an extended cross country road trip. It will be just me and the DW. We'll be driving our 1998 26' lazy daze class c. Rv runs well and only the usual trivial things that happen with rv's to deal with. The issue is last trip we went on I spend more time tripping over all the junk we seem to need to go anywhere. Under storage was full, under bunks, closets, over head bunk all stuffed, and still stuff was on the floor. This time not only are we going to be driving a lot longer, but also staying in the rv for up to 6 months when we arrive. Now I'm not a neat freak, but I do have foot problems that makes stepping on stuff or falling over stuff painful. My solution was to buy a small cargo trailer and put all the extra stuff we're not using at the moment in there. Wife's not thrilled about pulling another trailer since the last one rolled over and just about killed us. Another time different configuration. Anyways. RV 26' 14.5k lbs max load, empty weight 11.9k lbs Tow weight from book 3.5k lbs. 4 prong flat pin light wires.Trailer 2000 10x6x 6 wells cargo totewagon. new axle about 5 years ago. 15x5 wheels, getting new radial tires tomorrow. Questions: Both units are fairly old, what areas should I inspect/concentrate to make sure the factory numbers still apply. There is some corrosion on the trailer frame, but didn't see any structural issues, just paint coming off. I'll be scraping off these areas and hitting the bare metal with some rustolim spray paint.Not impressed with the way the tow hitch is welded onto the rv, would it be worth while to get someone to look at it and see where it could be beefed up a little? Hitch ball mounts are a bit sloppy in the receiver. been looking at some of those quiet hitch type devices. Do they work and are they worth using or mostly a pain to work around?Best way to secure the trailer when not attached? those hitch locks look interesting assuming they're not to cheaply made and come off with a crow bar. I can just see us leaving it at a campground to save our spot while we're exploring the area only to come back and have someone move it and take over our spot.Suggestions on how to clean the fiberglass sky lights? There's some black spots on them that didn't come off when I washed it this morning.With a line of screws along the side why would only one be corroded?Anything else I should know about towing one of these? I've towed big travel trailers (until I wrecked the last one) don't want any issues because I was being ignorant.

The most important thing you can do is to ensure the hitch on your tow vehicle is sound, solid, secure, and weighted correctly for the trailer you are towing. Second, is to make sure your trailer is hitched correctly. Fix anything wrong with the coupler if it needs it. Your hitch and hitch assembly is probably THE most important element.Edit: I did a Google search of your CLASS C and looked at some images. There is a considerable length of distance from the rear axle of your camper to the hitch. Even the slightest of movement from the stearing wheel will make the rear move considerably. I've not had experience with your rig, but say, you turn the stearing wheel and the front bumper moves to the right 1 inch. Because of the length of the overhang on the rear, the rear bumper may move 6 inches left (just an exagerated example). Now correct your stearing by turning slightly left, front bumper moves 1 inch left, but the rear moves 6 inches right. That movement shifted the hitch 12 inches from side to side (exagerated I know... bear with me). Now ..... attach a trailer, extending even a few inchdes farther, and the pivot point on the hitch ball, moving back and forth is going to really be exagerated on the tongue of the utility trailer. Now, your trailer is a single axle, and it's short. You are setting yourself up for sway and lots of rocky side-to-side movement. I strongly advise a very secure sway bar at the bare minimum to help prevent the trailer from wiggling back and forth.

During his first two terms our darling governor vetoed most of the requests for new briefcases for state employees under the philosophy that the paperwork will only fill the available briefcases...less briefcases, less paper. Whatever you buy, you and DW will fill.

We towed a single axle enclosed one trip behind a pickup and truck camper. Truck camper overhang required using a 2ft hitch extension placing the ball about ? 5 or 6 ft behind the rear axle. The trailer towed fine as long as it is not hitched nose high.

Make sure you have 100 to 150 lb tongue weight, if tongue is to light you'll get a lot of sway.

From your other thread, I mentioned I had a 5x8 Wells Cargo and it has served us well. I would have the MH hitch checked.If your MH has a rear mounted spare that sticks out, you might have trouble with trailer jack hitting the MH. On mine, I replaced the jack with a HF side mounted folding jack. It comes with a wheel so you might also be able to push it around by hand.For some security, the hitch latch has a hole in it that will take a padlock.Anti-hitch wobble- I've tried different ones without much success. Some won't fit at all depending on the MH hitch configuration. Get one with an easy return policy.Make sure you load cargo front heavy and you shouldn't have tow problems. One of the reasons I went with Wells Cargo, they seem to have a good rep.Backing my travel trailer was a breeze. Backing the cargo trailer, not so simple (for me!). Some problems, the trailer is short and the MH is long. The worst is you can't see it in the mirrors and when you do, it's too late. Back-up cam helps.Good, you're getting new tires, maybe get the bearings repacked.Norm

Questions about Cargo Trailers behind RV | Good Sam Community

mowermech
Explorer
Oct 22, 2017
A quick Krylon overhaul will mask any trailer that has "special" paint or decals.
any "safety" lock can probably be defeated with a small Victor "hot wrench" (one of those little oxy/acetylene cutting torches in the pack-around case. I have one. handy little bugger!).
Every time I think of "security", I think of the day when I spent all afternoon installing the latest and greatest kitchen drawer and cupboard door "child proof security locks" in our kitchen. By the time I got the last one installed, the 4 year old boy had figured out how to open them. Quite simply, a total waste of money and time!
ANY lock is merely a device to keep honest people honest.
A truly dedicated crook has the tools at hand to defeat anything we can put on a trailer: Crowbar, 5 pound hammer, chisel, sawzall, cutting torch, whatever he needs, he (or she) has it or can readily get it!
Of course, we can still try to keep thing secure, but we shouldn't be too surprised when it fails.
good luck.
photobug
Explorer
Oct 21, 2017
Researching trailer security, there are a couple of interesting videos out that show just how easy it is to defeat a lot of the "cost effective" solutions. pretty much anything that uses a padlock that you can get a set of bolt cutters on is about worthless. The round locks they sell at storage places, some guy picked it in less that 20 sec. The puck type locks seem to be the best for the doors, if they're the right size to fit over your hasp, they tend to be a bit shallow. Cheep hitch locks cant seem to stand up to a good crowbar and usually break and pop off within 30 sec. If all else fails they can just grab the safety chains and haul it off with them. My thoughts are unless I want to spend $300 for an armored hitch lock, it would be better to make it so the trailer doesn't roll if you don't want it to. I ended up buying what looks like the club for your steering wheel. It runs through one of the holes in the wheel and hooks onto the leaf spring, then locks on the outside. won't allow for the wheel to turn. As far as pulling it with the safety chains, why not just make them so they come off easily. Gated s hook or some type of caribeaner you just take the things off when you're not using them. I know nothing will make it completely theft proof, Sawzall with a metal blade through the side will defeat the door lock. Tow truck with a lift will pick the whole thing up and move it, but at least won't be easy to just walk off with without someone noticing. Someone said making the trailer distinctive will make it less liable to be taken since you can identify it driving down the road. maybe I should paint it to match the MH
SweetLou
Explorer
Oct 19, 2017
F1bNorm wrote:
Re: back-up camera. You mentioned mounting in the hitch area. I think it would be better near the roof of your MH. Up high you can see the top of the trailer and its easier to line up. Also you can see traffic over the top.

If not included, I would get a removable wheel for the hitch jack. It will make hitching up easier. Bring the trailer to the MH, not MH to the trailer. Make sure you remove the wheel and crank the jack all the way up or you will bend or break it on the first driveway!

I would think that in his set up it would be a must have, especially when the cargo trailer is only a single axle.
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Oct 18, 2017
No, no, no, Mkrisch! The stuff in the trailer will be the back up stuff to the things in the MH (which of course has its own back up stuff)....extra 20 pairs of socks, 12 gallons of emergency gasoline etc. Another idea is to buy a second MH for more stuff...and a trailer for second MH's back up stuff.
photobug
Explorer
Oct 18, 2017
F1bNorm wrote:
Re: back-up camera. You mentioned mounting in the hitch area. I think it would be better near the roof of your MH. Up high you can see the top of the trailer and its easier to line up. Also you can see traffic over the top.

If not included, I would get a removable wheel for the hitch jack. It will make hitching up easier. Bring the trailer to the MH, not MH to the trailer. Make sure you remove the wheel and crank the jack all the way up or you will bend or break it on the first driveway!

I've already got a backup camera mounted above the back window on the MH I can see both sides plus the hitch with it, but is blocked from seeing behind when the trailer is attached. Been thinking of the garmin wireless backup camera that connects with the gps unit on the dash. Assuming it works through all that metal, could mount it between the clearance lights on top of the trailer. Probably power it that way, although I'd have to have the lights on when ever I needed to use it.
Trailer came with a 6" wheel to attach to the bottom of the jack. I used to have a 17' ski boat, so I'm assuming that this thing won't be any more difficult to hook up than the boat was.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Oct 18, 2017
It's one thing if you actually USE the stuff you bring along. My worry here is they'll move all the excess stuff to the trailer, then proceed to pack the RV full of stuff all over again, ending up with the same problem.

On this trip, really buckle down and pay attention to what you use and don't use. You might even go so far as to mark the items you use with a piece of tape or your first initial in an inconspicuous place with a Sharpie. Anything that hasn't been "tagged" after 6 months on the road is unnecessary weight and bulk that you're bringing along for absolutely no reason.

The obvious exceptions are basic tools and safety equipment. These are items you may need but hope you'll never use. Obviously you don't need a complete shop, just enough wrenches, hammers, and pliers to make basic repairs.
Bedlam
Moderator
Oct 18, 2017
Scottiemom wrote:
Learn to get by with less. We live in our motorhome. . . true, it's a 40'er, but why do you need so much stuff? Are you taking 6 months worth of food? Clothes at the most should be a few pairs of jeans, shorts, shirts, and undies. You can do laundry on the road. Why do you need to have every crevice filled with junk, then haul a trailer for the rest of it?

We took our 22' B+ to Alaska for 3 months. I had her packed full, more food than anything else because we had heard about high prices for staples in Alaska. But everything fit in cupboards, don't have anything laying around on the floor. I took way more than we needed though. We had 3 changes of jeans, a week of undies, maybe 6 shirts, an insulated vest, hoodie and one heavier coat. We were limited on space for everything, but we were good to go.

We did add a trunk on the back for tools, the grill, etc. That might be a better solution. Put a truck in your receiver on the back.

Less is more.

Dale

I tow a 20’ enclosed trailer behind my truck camper giving me a combined length a little over 50’. It carries extra water, fuel and LPG for boon docking, motorized and pedal powered vehicles for sight seeing, outdoor furniture and tools. What can I say? I’m a guy that likes to bring his garage along. The trailer also allows to buy bulk items instead of expensively packaged smaller quantities and even has clothes line run inside to allow us to dry clothing regardless of weather.
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Oct 18, 2017
“I towed it with my van up and down the highway at 70+ didn't have an issue. I don't plan to be driving the MH that fast anyways, uses too much gas.“

Oh yes, that’s the only reason to not drive 70+ towing...gas mileage.
F1bNorm
Explorer
Oct 18, 2017
Re: back-up camera. You mentioned mounting in the hitch area. I think it would be better near the roof of your MH. Up high you can see the top of the trailer and its easier to line up. Also you can see traffic over the top.

If not included, I would get a removable wheel for the hitch jack. It will make hitching up easier. Bring the trailer to the MH, not MH to the trailer. Make sure you remove the wheel and crank the jack all the way up or you will bend or break it on the first driveway!
photobug
Explorer
Oct 17, 2017
Had to replace a rear brake light on it this afternoon, weird attachment, rubber grommet holding the whole light assembly in. Just pushed on it a little and it just popped right out. Assembly and me perplexed how to change the bulb. Didn't seem any way of opening it without breaking the housing. Fred Meyer had the same size assembly with LED bulbs. Just cut the old ones off and crimped on a new set. Wouldn't you know, one side had about 4' of extra wire, the other side had to reach inside to access wires. Thinking of a dab of silicon sealant around the edges to weather seal a bit more, there was some corrosion under the grommet. New license plate, all the standardized mounting holes were stripped out, Previous owner had drilled new holes in the plate, didn't have a drill with me. It's safety wired onto the rear door until I can find a better solution.