Shaky towing experience, please advise

Just returned from a recent trip, comprised of three legs, each much longer than our previous trips.

Leg A: 275 miles, mostly on 4 lane divided highways through the Texas hill country. I ran 55-60 mph on average, rarely getting to 65. It was a windy day (30 mph) and there were a few times when the steering felt "slippery" or "light" on the front end (that's the best way I know to describe it). Overall I would say this was an okay-to-good towing experience.

Leg B: 350 miles, mostly on interstate (I-10) in moderate (15 mph?) winds. This was my first extended time towing on the interstate with a TT. I now know what "white knuckling" means! I began at my usual 55-60 mph and worked up to no more than 65 mph. The steering felt very light on the front end and slippery---like I was on ice or hydroplaning. When a tractor trailer truck would pass me, I wouldn't even need to look in the mirror to know when it was 10 ft off my left rear bumper: I could feel a strong pull then push as it came alongside me. I don't mean a small pull-push, I mean severe as if I might lose control. I slowed to 60 mph and this helped, but it was still uncomfortable. I had to slow to 50-55 to feel comfortable, and I don't believe I am a chicken driver. Thankfully, the last hour of our drive was in stop and go (but mostly go) traffic on a 4 lane divided highway running 50 mph at most. This was an extremely welcome relief compared to the previous 5+ hours.

Leg C: About 250 mi, 25 or so on interstate, the rest on 4 lane divided highway but wide open where the speed limit was 70 and 75 mph. The driving experience on this leg was similar to leg A, except on the interstate it was more like leg B. On the divided highways I could run 65 mph and felt comfortable although the push-pull occurred when a big rig would blow by at 75 or 80. I just learned to slow to 55 and scoot to the right of my lane before they reached me.

In all three trips, I had no trouble pulling or stopping or maneuvering the trailer whether in tight traffic or open spaces. I was pleased with the power of my 2011 F-150 Lariat with 5.0L V8, 6 speed transmission. I used Tow/Haul mode almost all the time, locking out 6th gear. The engine braking was very nice and useful in traffic.

So what I want to know is: is my experience normal? If not, what can I do to rectify the situation? The family and I loved the camping but hated leg B and disliked certain parts of leg A/C.

In case it matters, on leg A I had very little (maybe 5 gallons total) in my tanks. On leg B, I probably had 10 gallons total in my tanks. On leg C, I completely drained all my tanks and pushed all the weight I could to the front of the trailer.

On my way home, I stopped and weighed everything in order to get input from you all. This is what the CAT scales said:

TV+TT with WD bars in place:
Steer Axle 3260
Drive Axle 3840
Trailer Axle 5240
Gross Weight 12340
------------------------------

TV+TT with WD bars removed (put in bed of truck):
Steer Axle 2780
Drive Axle 4300
Gross Weight 12160
------------------------------

TV only
Steer Axle 3260
Drive Axle 3020
Trailer Axle 0
Gross Weight 6280
------------------------------

According to this link, my rig has

TT weight: 5880
Tongue weight: 800
Tongue weight percentage: 13.8%
TV weight (hitched + WDH engaged): 7100

The door sticker of my truck says GVWR is 7100 lbs and the max weight of passengers and cargo should not exceed 1482 lbs.

My truck sits level when hitched and spring bars in place. I can post a wide angle sideshot if needed.

To reiterate: So what I want to know is: is my experience normal? If not, what can I do to rectify the situation? The family and I loved the camping but hated leg B and disliked certain parts of legs A and C.

Thanks so much for your help!

hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Aug 12, 2015
jaycocamprs wrote:
Easy, cheap things first. For your next trip. Front tires to normal pressure, rear tires to sidewall max, trailer tires to sidewall max. Load all stuff forward of axles, don't throw stuff back in the bunk area. And try to keep waste tanks as empty as possible. Make this your baseline for any further changes. If you still feel the loose greasy steering check the level of the trailer. Measure ahead and behind the axles on flat ground. This will tell you if you need to lower the hitch head 1 hole. And putting 5 gallons of water in the fresh tank to increase tongue weight may help. As someone else mentioned, do 1 thing at a time. I also think that your brand new tires may be some of your issue. This will become a non-issue as you drive the truck and wear them in. You have very near the empty weight on your steer axle with the spring bars pulled up, I don't think you need more.

Some folks say level parking lot for checking your setup, but this comment quoted says it better, flat is what you need (level for fridge, flat for hitch setup). Flat allows you to measure various places and get meaningful information.
jaycocamprs
Explorer
Aug 12, 2015
Easy, cheap things first. For your next trip. Front tires to normal pressure, rear tires to sidewall max, trailer tires to sidewall max. Load all stuff forward of axles, don't throw stuff back in the bunk area. And try to keep waste tanks as empty as possible. Make this your baseline for any further changes. If you still feel the loose greasy steering check the level of the trailer. Measure ahead and behind the axles on flat ground. This will tell you if you need to lower the hitch head 1 hole. And putting 5 gallons of water in the fresh tank to increase tongue weight may help. As someone else mentioned, do 1 thing at a time. I also think that your brand new tires may be some of your issue. This will become a non-issue as you drive the truck and wear them in. You have very near the empty weight on your steer axle with the spring bars pulled up, I don't think you need more.
ssia2485
Explorer
Aug 11, 2015
The truck you are towing with is way to light duty for what you are trying to pull. It may work fine for short hauls but not for long distance interstate travel. You need a 3/4 ton HD chassis for that purpose. The hitch will only help mask your problem.
silverfz
Explorer
Aug 08, 2015
Took my first long distance towing trip today. Long enough and off the bat all the front end wallowing , harmonics on transitions between road surfaces and the whole front end washing away feeling is no gone. Just a very controlled solid ride. It felt like riding empty and well grounded. If I would known this was the issue I would got the blienstin 4600 HD rear shock long time ago. We had some climbs where usually it will like I am going launch to space with a shudder in the front end. All is clear. Even my wife who has stopped towing noicted how clean it was told me she is driving on the way home.
Jframpey
Explorer
Aug 07, 2015
I too grew tired of the push-pull when passed by large vehicles...

I had a Chevy 1500 and 26' Jayco. First step was to upgrade my truck to a 2500. With that "small" trailer the push-pull went away. Last year I upgraded to a 31' trailer... Not wanting a return of the push-pull I invested in a ProPride hitch. I really struggled with paying that much money for a hitch, but, I can now say that I am glad I did, I now drive without worry of sway. Like you I drive at 60 mph on interstates - now I can relax, not worrying about being passed by trucks and buses.

Now, if someone would just fix these rough roads! The right lane gets so beat up from truck traffic.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Aug 05, 2015
Maybe he has the front tires pumped up TOO HARD? He is at unloaded normal driving weight on the front axle. He should have normal unloaded pressure in the tires.

He's got them pumped up to 40 or 44 PSI, but they don't need to be that high because they're not carrying any additional weight on the front axle. They should be inflated to the normal operating pressure as listed on the door sticker.

When you overinflate a tire, it rides on the narrow patch in the middle of the tread, giving you a smaller contact patch, and as such, less traction, less control.

A slight reduction in pressure can make a large improvement in grip.
myredracer
Explorer II
Aug 05, 2015
Ron Gratz wrote:
According to the first post, the adjustment of the WDH was checked by making three passes over a truck scales.
Axle loads indicate 100% front axle load restoration.

The OP's signature indicates he is using a Husky Centerline hitch.

Ron

Correct! Too early in the am, not enough caffeine.
silverfz
Explorer
Aug 05, 2015
My experience towing a 28 BHS Avenger with a dry of 6333 with my CrewMax was very similar. I had 110k and the fix ended up being a worn and done rear shock.

Mine would float and then it will get a bit better but then it will float. Random times , I increased the adjustment on the WDH to use.
Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Aug 05, 2015
myredracer wrote:
Remove tires on the truck. Sell on CL. Install LT tires and run at or close to max. psi on tire sidewall when towing. 40 psi is way too low for towing. Need to keep an eye on tread wear though to ensure center of tread isn't wearing prematurely if running near/at max. psi.
Before ditching the brand new tires, he might want to follow Tire Rack's advice in this post and get a few more miles on them to see if "wearing in" will eliminate the "slippery" steering feeling.

Is the WDH properly adjusted using before & after front fender heights? Have friction type sway bar on the hitch?

Recommend going to a scale and determining the actual TW, TT weight, TV actual payload capacity and weight transferred back onto the steer axle. (Needs 3 different passes.)
According to the first post, the adjustment of the WDH was checked by making three passes over a truck scales.
Axle loads indicate 100% front axle load restoration.

The OP's signature indicates he is using a Husky Centerline hitch.

Ron
myredracer
Explorer II
Aug 05, 2015
Remove tires on the truck. Sell on CL. Install LT tires and run at or close to max. psi on tire sidewall when towing. 40 psi is way too low for towing. Need to keep an eye on tread wear though to ensure center of tread isn't wearing prematurely if running near/at max. psi.

Tires on TT need to be at the max. psi - 50 psi for LRC and 65 for LRD.

Is the WDH properly adjusted using before & after front fender heights? Have friction type sway bar on the hitch?

Recommend going to a scale and determining the actual TW, TT weight, TV actual payload capacity and weight transferred back onto the steer axle. (Needs 3 different passes.)