Stopping interference to backup display

Loose connection or bad ground. I wired my camera and monitor through a relay that is triggered by the back up light.

The display gets power directly from the reverse light. I checked all connections. I'm pretty sure the interference comes from the replacement LED lights that replaced the, original, incandescent bulbs. I went back to the incandescent bulb and the problem disappeared. I am set on using the LED lights, which are much brighter, but need to find a way to filter out the interference. That's why I'm asking if anyone who's familiar with LED's would advise a capacitor across the pos and neg.

I really miss the Radio Shacks.

You can pick up a relay and socket from All Electronics and wire it up like this. Battery to fuse to relay (pin 30). Relay pin 87 to camera and monitor power. Relay pin 86 to plus side of reverse light. Relay pin 85 to ground. This way you can use the LED lights (I did mine this way).

What you're talking about seems to require a lot of additional wiring. Understand, I am talking about backup lights. The add-on backup camera and display only work when the car is in reverse. I get herringboning in the display. You don't think a simple filter capacitor soldered across the wires to the bulb will do the trick?

Is this a wireless system? If so, try relocating or using a separate antenna that can be located away from the bulb. If that's not possible or it's a wired system, make sure you are using "EMC compliant" bulbs and not any standard automotive LED bulb.

Not wireless. Pulls power from the left BU light wiring.

Some LEDs cause interference with radio signals. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out why my garage door remote on the stix and brix wouldn't work at night. Finally realized the problem started when I installed some LED yard lights. Turned off the yard lights and remote works fine. You may be getting RF interference in your backup display. You might try different LED bulbs or go back to incandescents. JMHO.

I soldered a 0.05 microFarad capacitor across the positive and negative wires to the LED bulb and the problem seems to have been resolved.

You might want to post it in technical section to find people with better education on the subject, but from what I experienced LED lights send pulses (not visible to human eye) and digital cameras don't like it.
Had it several times at scales, where I took picture of LED display, only to find it blank on the picture.