Durb wrote:
My 3500 lug nut spec is 140 ft-lbs. Nuts are easy to remove if torqued correctly to begin with. I use a Proto 6014 250 ft-lb torque wrench which is long so I use it to break the nuts and retorque correctly. Tire shops almost always over torque the fastener. Best when you get home from the shop is to loosen the fasteners and tighten correcty so you won't have issues on the road.
Sorry, I didn't bother to look up your suggested items.
WRONG, wrong, wrong!!
NEVER use a torque wrench to loosen lugs! You need to have your Proto re-calibrated and......
Use a breaker bar - with a "cheater" - a length of pipe to extend the bar and increase your leverage.
Better yet for those who don't have the strength, or?? - Get an inexpensive torque multiplier - and save lots of $$. No batteries or power required. Look it up on Google, YouTube, to see it used....
check Amazon for prices (yes, the "overseas" -inexpensive- brands work well).
BTW - many have mentioned the HF breaker bars. Pass on that, and find the type that has a sliding ball (for lack of a better term) that is the socket connection....rather than a pinned socket connection on the end of the bar. The latter type can/will fail when you need it most.
YIKES on the - "tire shops almost over tighten the fastener"...:E
That may stretch and/or break the studs and/or damage aluminum wheels if you have those!!..:(
*YOUR* job is to watch the guy tightening the lugs with his impact.
*ASK* the guy what his impact is set at!!..:@
(Many of those folks worked at Taco Bell last week)
They should be tightened *close* to the necessary torque, THEN tightened with a TQ wrench!!...:C
Doing that may save you a lot of time (if the shop replaces what they damage), and/or $$ if they don't.
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