Forum Discussion
Caryite
Nov 25, 2016Explorer
SDcampowneroperator wrote:DSDP Don wrote:
"Rubber Ducky1"....The raised edges go outward, away from the blade.
Remember, the drain valve is designed to rotate freely, so you can angle the drain to any point you like. Keep this in mind when trying to access the four bolts, I think they're 7/16'. A small quarter inch drive socket set works well with a combination box/open end wrench.
The most difficult part of the installation is keeping the rubber seals in place when installing the valve. First, take a small amount of Vaseline or grease and place it on the raised edge side of the seal and install it in the valve. Take a plastic milk carton or similar thin plastic and cut out the side of the carton so the cut out is larger than the side of the valve. You need two pieces.
When you're ready, take the plastic pieces you cutout and place one on each side of the valve, making a valve sandwich. Slide the valve into place and visually align the pipes to the sides of the valve. Once aligned, slide out the plastic pieces. This will keep the rubber seals from moving during installation. Reinstall the bolts and tighten. Don't go crazy tightening them, but they should be tight. Once done, make sure the blade opens and closes smoothly.
This is very good advice. Just note the way the seals are positioned on the new valve in the package and keep them that way.
The one change I'd recommend is to use plumbers valve grease, silicone based, water and detergent proof.
Great advice on the plastic pieces to keep those seals in place. I'm having a challenge on this for my grey tank valve replacement given the plastic pieces on each side are very close to each other and it has proven to be quite tough on putting the new valve in WITHOUT having the seals move.
So here's my question:
All of the Valterra and YouTube videos online show the seals as being mounted on the outside pipes on each side and THEN sliding the valve into place, not having the seals inside of the valve itself. That seems to ensure the valve is fully around the new pipes on each side and there's nothing that isn't fully around them and being crimped or not fully circular. The problem is this is nearly impossible in having the seals move once I put the valve in. I'm at the point I'm considering putting some minor non-permanent glue on the seals to the outside pipes (Elmers to keep it in place?) that will allow them to stay in place.
Any thoughts to this?
I don't see any directives on sealants, and I don't want to use something too adhesive this would be a pain to remove in the future, just something strong enough to hold the seals in place while I put the valve into place.
Thanks for any advice to this.
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