Which dinghy tow vehicle is suggested?

I have had several toads over the years. I am now on my first Jeep Wrangler and this one is, by far and away, the best I have ever had. The baseplate install was a piece of cake. The baseplate mounts high at exactly the same height as the receiver tube on my MH meaning a nice flat tow bar angle and I can hook up without having to crawl around on all fours. And all that I have to do is put the transfer case in N and go and go. No limits on speed and no procedures that have to be done every xxx miles. Plus the thing is a ball to drive and 4wd opens up new adventures on the road.

I was a little concerned about comfort in a Jeep for long drives as it is also my main mode of transportation. But I bought mine loaded up with the goodies like heated seats and leather and voice controlled navigation, so it is very car like with a decent if firm ride.

You need to follow YOUR manufacturer's directions very carefully. Some require an engine warm-up to move the fluids, a specific gear shifting routine, placing in neutral and turning off but leaving the key in accessory position and pulling a fuse. READ UP on what is required for your vehicle. Don't guess as it could be very costly.:E

Requirements can vary from model year to model year. Works great but you must follow the correct directions. CHECK THE MANUAL!

On the Honda CRV the FMCA 1013 towing guide says, there is a special procedure that you need to do every 8 hours of towing to avoid transmission damage-see owners manual.

What does this mean

Thanks Don

mowermech wrote:
Ah, yes, the "CAN-BUS" electrical system.
Our PT Cruiser has that. The right front turn signal quit working. A little over $800 later, it is fixed. The problem was in the Integrated Power Distribution Module, which is NOT repairable. Module: About $400. Diagnosis and replacement labor: About $400.
Another good reason to keep my '06 Jeep. Maybe if the Module (if it has one) goes bad on it, I can find a good used one.
I took the inexpensive route for towing wiring in the Jeep. It cost less than $20, and it works.

Ouch...and I Can only hope that doesn't happen to mine and like so many other expensive things that can go wrong with today's vehicles.

If 4 doors and a rear seat are not required, I recommend a smart car. They weigh 1,800 lbs (US) and the only mod in addition to the towbar setup is a $15 (USD) battery disconnect switch to shut off the computer while towing. It has the lower grill for the baseplates and a lot of storage behind the seats.

Ah, yes, the "CAN-BUS" electrical system.
Our PT Cruiser has that. The right front turn signal quit working. A little over $800 later, it is fixed. The problem was in the Integrated Power Distribution Module, which is NOT repairable. Module: About $400. Diagnosis and replacement labor: About $400.
Another good reason to keep my '06 Jeep. Maybe if the Module (if it has one) goes bad on it, I can find a good used one.
I took the inexpensive route for towing wiring in the Jeep. It cost less than $20, and it works.

rk911 wrote:
jeep liberty, jeep wrangler or jeep grand cherokee.

Well then, the Wrangler of course and hopefully the JK series 2009 and above. Just make sure it's new enough to not have a steering lock and just one thing less to contend with.
Use a COOLTECH wiring harness and you'll have this benefit from them, which I've quoted elsewhere...

"ALL previous model Jeeps prior to the introduction of the JK Wrangler from 2007-current would require diodes. The JK utilizes a CAN-BUS electrical system. When you "flip a switch" in the JK, more often than not, you are not completing a circuit (through a relay). In fact, when you flip a switch, you are sending a request signal into the car's CAN BUS system. The Power Distribution Module is invoked with the task of making the connection. This combination of CAN-BUS and the power distribution box eliminate traditional feedback - as long as the system is wired properly. We have several hundred tow harnesses on the road and I would venture to say we have the most popular Wrangler harness on the market. We wouldn't have this success if the system didn't work. Note that we also sell a solution for older model jeeps - 1996-2006 Wrangler TJ's. Rather than use diodes and "hack up" your OEM wiring, our solution uses separate bulb and sockets. This too is a popular solution - because it works."

rk911 wrote:
jeep liberty, jeep wrangler or jeep grand cherokee.

Agreed. I like the '06 Wrangler, because the switch has the "OFF, not locked" position, and I don't like the styling of the newer ones.

x2 for the CRV. We also have a 2012 and love the gas mileage around town!! Traded our Suburban for the CRV and couldn't be happier. Tows like a dream. It's our 7th Honda. We have the Demco towing system.
Andi

We are towing a 12 Honda CRV all wheel drive. The Blue Ox baseplates are designed for very minimal modifications to the original vehicle. Ours bolted on in front of the radiator. Just removed the factory Honda metal bumper and the baseplate bolted into place. The tabs come through existing openings in the Honda fascia and is almost invisible when the tow tabs are removed.

This is almost exactly what is required with our GMC Terrain. I understand the Chevy Equinox is also this method.

We have about 10,000 miles towing on our Terrain with absolutely no ill effects what so ever. I did install a switch in place of the required fuse that needs to be pulled...much easier than pulling that fuse every time. Now it's just turn the key to on, put it in neutral, flip the switch and make sure the parking brake is off.

Ron