A while ago, as an experiment, I bought a 12v outdoor landscape light that claimed 10w warm white.TO NO one's surprise it did not consume 10 watts, and while it did respond to a PWM LED dimmer, the range of adjustment was pretty poor so I did not use the dimmer thereafter.It failed today. I'd estimate no more than 600 hours maximum total use.When I feed it 13vDC, the LEd just flickers not close to coming on at full brightness. When i remove 12vDC is flickers once a bit brighter then flickers for a few seconds longer.Now this was inexpensive, but to me it seems like a fairly good waterproof design, which can have a better LED attached to the fairly substantial housing/heatsink. with little effort. It did not get hot, merely warm, when it worked properly when new.The circuit board driver does not have that burnt electronic smell, but could be blown for all I know.They make a "20 watt" version of this light which employs the same housing, so I would be game to upgrade the LED emitter and electronics even if it costs more than buying a better product.I could also add even more heatsinking.Call it a learning/ keep it out of the landfill type of project.I'd love to this housing contain a very powerful LED 12v light that responds nicely to a PWM dimmer, even though I do not really need one.

I do agree the best part of a cheap Chinese LED flood light is the housing.To rebuild it in a fashion that supports external dimming a resistor dropper is your only choice. Any kind of active circuitry, linear or switching would be confused with an external PWM supply.The driver pictured might be a linear constant current driver, and the big capacitor is the reason for poor response to your external dimmer.The downside to a resistor dropper is extreme energy waste, especially for a high power LED.A switching driver with built in dimming and external control support is what I recommend. Like a Luxdrive Buck-puck. It comes with an analog dimming input you can connect a pot to and use as a brightness knob.

CHIPPower SupplyBETTERhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W-50W-100W-Waterproof-High-Power-LED-Driver-Supply-LED-SMD-Chip-Bulb/162000234100?hash=item25b7f76674:m:mrAkcjQIpzv6_W3UHOODO7AMake sure (4) 3.5 chip screws are not stripped or bottomed outInsure flat chip mounting surface. I like scuffing with 80 gritUse SILVER heat sink compound -- it really does lower chip operating temp.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Top-Quality-SILVER-Thermal-Paste-Compound-For-CPU-GPU-Block-Heat-Sink-4-5w-MK-1g/252492064905?hash=item3ac9b32889:g:mpgAAOSwARZXpf6GAfter repairing several dozens of these lights, I seem to have ironed out the bugs. None of my upgrades have failed in 6+ years...But none of the above addresses the issue of dimming. Use a 5-watt chip and matching power supply?

Too many times I've seen those "packaged" drivers being nothing but junk inside. Call me a snob, but I don't buy anything power LED related off eBay, too much scamming going on. Digikey, Mouser and Future Electronics satisfy all my needs, and really aren't that expensive for genuine parts.Ok, I do buy their LED flood lights, throw the guts away and re-use the housing. Domestic cast/machined housings are stupid expensive.

I have purchased many lED's some from E-bay, (Assorted results none 100% happy but Ill settle for 90) Some Amazon (So far So good, in fact I'm sitting under a 5 meter strip of Amazon Led's for less than 10 bucks as I type. I cut the roll into strips, tape 'em to the backing plate on my Thin Light Florcesent .. after removing all the Florcesent sockets and ballast, and they are N*I*C*E*!!!!!Long lasting tooand some from other sources where I can check first, (Expensive).My recommendation is make a small purchase and if it's a good supplier. TAKE NOTES and buy more.. If you want the Amazon page for the COOL WHITE lights I use (I like Cool not Warm) ask and I'll see if I can snag it from my order history.I don't sell 'em. I just buy 'em.

Seventeen moolahs for a ten watt driver is beyond what my wallet is willing to part with. And yes, a person has to be careful when buying light emitting diodes or accessories off of eBray.None of the drivers I purchased have failed from the vendor listed above. Near 100% chip failure of integrated housings/chip assemblies.The SHARP 30 and 50 watt chips I purchased blow the doors off of the chips I purchased from Mickey Mouser. Better sunlight color, cooler running, and more uniform segment illumination.For 120vac to 36 volt conversion I use ventilated power supplies. That way I can tweak to match ma to specifics. For instance over my new work bench I backed off voltage to 34.4 from 35.8 (4%) on a 50 watt Sharp chip.So, as far as I am concerned "blanket statements" about LED components are risky. A Truism however seems to be any 120 vac LED lamp assembly from China should be treated like the electrical components are sub-marginal.

"10 watt" LED | Good Sam Community

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2018
I have purchased many lED's some from E-bay, (Assorted results none 100% happy but Ill settle for 90) Some Amazon (So far So good, in fact I'm sitting under a 5 meter strip of Amazon Led's for less than 10 bucks as I type. I cut the roll into strips, tape 'em to the backing plate on my Thin Light Florcesent .. after removing all the Florcesent sockets and ballast, and they are N*I*C*E*!!!!!

Long lasting too

and some from other sources where I can check first, (Expensive).

My recommendation is make a small purchase and if it's a good supplier. TAKE NOTES and buy more.. If you want the Amazon page for the COOL WHITE lights I use (I like Cool not Warm) ask and I'll see if I can snag it from my order history.

I don't sell 'em. I just buy 'em.
GordonThree
Explorer
Feb 13, 2018
Too many times I've seen those "packaged" drivers being nothing but junk inside. Call me a snob, but I don't buy anything power LED related off eBay, too much scamming going on. Digikey, Mouser and Future Electronics satisfy all my needs, and really aren't that expensive for genuine parts.

Ok, I do buy their LED flood lights, throw the guts away and re-use the housing. Domestic cast/machined housings are stupid expensive.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Feb 13, 2018

CHIP

Power Supply

BETTER

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W-50W-100W-Waterproof-High-Power-LED-Driver-Supply-LED-SMD-Chip-Bulb/162000234100?hash=item25b7f76674:m:mrAkcjQIpzv6_W3UHOODO7A

Make sure (4) 3.5 chip screws are not stripped or bottomed out
Insure flat chip mounting surface. I like scuffing with 80 grit
Use SILVER heat sink compound -- it really does lower chip operating temp.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Top-Quality-SILVER-Thermal-Paste-Compound-For-CPU-GPU-Block-Heat-Sink-4-5w-MK-1g/252492064905?hash=item3ac9b32889:g:mpgAAOSwARZXpf6G

After repairing several dozens of these lights, I seem to have ironed out the bugs. None of my upgrades have failed in 6+ years...

But none of the above addresses the issue of dimming. Use a 5-watt chip and matching power supply?
GordonThree
Explorer
Feb 13, 2018
I do agree the best part of a cheap Chinese LED flood light is the housing.

To rebuild it in a fashion that supports external dimming a resistor dropper is your only choice. Any kind of active circuitry, linear or switching would be confused with an external PWM supply.

The driver pictured might be a linear constant current driver, and the big capacitor is the reason for poor response to your external dimmer.

The downside to a resistor dropper is extreme energy waste, especially for a high power LED.

A switching driver with built in dimming and external control support is what I recommend. Like a Luxdrive Buck-puck. It comes with an analog dimming input you can connect a pot to and use as a brightness knob.

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