120v only lights in slide- convert to 12v?

You don't need the tool box to do the inverter whole house trick. Just clamp the portable inverter to the batteries and plug the shore power cable into the inverter. Keep the inverter in the rig somewhere when not in use.

You do have to keep the inverter from getting wet and from perhaps being stolen. EG, wrap (loosely) a tarp around it. Dry and out of sight. It does need some fresh air.

We have one 110v light over our dining table in the slide, and we also have one 110v receptacle in the slide. The wiring is strapped below the slide with long springs to keep them taught and out of the way. Not a real good design. The 110v wire and sheathing is only about an inch above the tire while the slide is retracted. And we really don't see any great benefit of having that 110v stuff there anyway.

But we also have one 12v light against the slide window so with that setup we figured we would just leave things the way they are.

I really appreciate all the input. They are all good suggestions.

As we're trying to decide which way to go, I am asking for more details about more than one option. I hope that doesn't cause any consternation for anyone. We just haven't made the final choice yet.

It is very likely that we will have an whole-camper inverter at some point, and likely some solar. All in a toolbox mounted to the front of the camper. That's my vision.

Unfortunately, we have to prioritize the money, effort, and time to make sure we have the things we NEED right now.

The small inverter would be fast and easy. 120v LEDs would make it better energy wise, too.

But our week long trip this June will need to have the laptops charging- for more than just the little bit the generator runs, so that tilts us in that direction.

If I had the toolbox already, no-brainer. But the space is narrow and I might have to move the propane bottle holder (cut and weld), which adds more complexity.

I've been sick for several days, much worse today. So I've not been many ANY progress on getting the work done, which only backs up further ;)

Our dining room aka the fixture over the table is 120v
I replaced the 40w incandescent bulbs with 9w 120v LED bulbs
Power saved 80 percent, only using 20 percent as much power to produce the same amount of light, just as bright

My suggestion is to fix the loose wire connection and replace the incandescent lamps with 120v LED lamps

DrewE wrote:

BFL13 wrote:

DiskDoctr wrote:
All good info ;)

My laptop power supply input is 1.5a.

2 laptops and a couple of tablets.

Thinking if I add some USB charging ports (hardwire, or is the 12v socket okay?) in a few key locations, only need to charge and run the laptops.

Maybe 750watt, or 1k?

It's about price point between them. Thoughts?

The 1000 lets you run a 120v fridge but the 750 might not, if you ever wanted to that trick while driving. (You might not want to run the fridge on gas while going down the road and you are not allowed to on a ferry, eg.)

A 750W inverter would easily run an absorption fridge on AC. A 500W one should equally well, too; the fridge heating element uses about 300W or a bit more.

For compressor fridges, the motor startup power requirements are what drive larger inverter sizes: it takes a substantial surge to get the compressor moving. For them a 1000 watt or larger inverter would indeed be necessary. Once a compressor fridge is running, it uses a lot less power than an absorption fridge, maybe 100W more or less unless defrosting. The heating element in an absorption fridge does not have any significant startup surge current requirement.

Thanks for the clarification. So if it is an absorption fridge the 750 is ok in my scenario driving down the road or on a ferry with the gas turned off.

The OP seems vague on doing the inverter "whole house" which makes the 120v lights and receptacles etc all work from the 12v batteries anyway just like being on shore power. Then just put in 120v LEDs. No rewiring beyond the inverter installation up by the batteries. In fact the 750 can have big clamps (some come that way) so you don't even need to install it.

Clamp on, plug in the shore power cable adapted down to 15a, turn off converter, put fridge and water heater on gas, and fire up the inverter. Too easy.

Yes, there is a 120v outlet in the slideout.

I was pretty sure the 120v lights only worked when the slide was out...but...thinking back, not sure if the 120v was hooked up when I tried it. I will confirm it.

I guess I just don't see the benefit of having 120v-only lighting in that area? Maybe because pre-LED, they were trying to limit the 12v draw on the converters? But that wouldn't be any problem now.

We can get good light and good color with LEDs that use 1/10th the power of incandescents.

Is there any downside to just converting this all to 12v lighting? I'd pull the 120v and maybe add an outlet or something.

If I went with the inverter idea, I could pull the wiring off the lights and put in an outlet, then use 120v to 12v power supply to use the standard house under cabinet LEDs. Yes, a bit wasteful to go from 12v to 120v back to 12v, but when connected to shore power, it would be fine...and deal with the potential "over 12v" problems for the bulbs.

I read some time ago where people were using standard 120v fixtures and running then with 12v bulbs (CFL, LED bulbs, etc)

I've even considered removing the light socket all together and installing a LED panel inside the fixture instead.

It just really seems like an odd setup...

Surely someone else has dealt with this issue before?

BFL13 wrote:

DiskDoctr wrote:
All good info ;)

My laptop power supply input is 1.5a.

2 laptops and a couple of tablets.

Thinking if I add some USB charging ports (hardwire, or is the 12v socket okay?) in a few key locations, only need to charge and run the laptops.

Maybe 750watt, or 1k?

It's about price point between them. Thoughts?

The 1000 lets you run a 120v fridge but the 750 might not, if you ever wanted to that trick while driving. (You might not want to run the fridge on gas while going down the road and you are not allowed to on a ferry, eg.)

A 750W inverter would easily run an absorption fridge on AC. A 500W one should equally well, too; the fridge heating element uses about 300W or a bit more.

For compressor fridges, the motor startup power requirements are what drive larger inverter sizes: it takes a substantial surge to get the compressor moving. For them a 1000 watt or larger inverter would indeed be necessary. Once a compressor fridge is running, it uses a lot less power than an absorption fridge, maybe 100W more or less unless defrosting. The heating element in an absorption fridge does not have any significant startup surge current requirement.

I would leave the 110 alone and just add some 12v to the area.

DiskDoctr wrote:
Is there ANY reason to leave those lights 120v?

Why not just convert them over to 12v? Maybe LED twist bulbs aren't readily available?

Are there any 120V outlets in the slideout? They would also be "converted" and be unusable. Likely the wire to the slide is a single 14 gauge cable, so you would be limited in 12V power available; that may not be a problem, though, if only lights are being powered.

The wires themselves would not care if it is 12V or 120V current flowing. The switches might not be rated for DC operation, which is harder to switch, but likely would work fine in practice. (It is not wise to go the other direction and use 12V wiring for 120V circuits as the insulation and connections usually are not rated to be safe at the higher voltage.)

1. I have NEVER seen any type switch to turn off 120 or 12 volt in a slide room. Especially on a cheaper RV.
2. I would suspect you have a BAD 120 connection and it makes contac only when the room is extended and separates when retracted.
3. It would be easy to convert the lights to 12 volt. You buy 12 volt lights. You disconnect the 120 at its feed under the slide room junction box. Use the white and black wire of the 120 romex and connect the under slide to a 12 volt positive and negative. Doug