13.5 Coleman in Bedroom. Not Impressed

A 10.7 EER 5K window unit mounted on the deck consumes SEVENTEEN percent of the energy compared to a 13.5K BTU roof air,

I don't buy it, unless you have a 5k btu/hr air conditioner that uses 280 watts (17% of the 1650 watts the most inefficient Coleman uses).

"Not sure how portables wormed in to this thread though...."

GUILTY

Misery, for me, is defined as laying beneath a roof air feeling the effect of spillage. But then my issues are different - high energy cost. A 10.7 EER 5K window unit mounted on the deck consumes SEVENTEEN percent of the energy compared to a 13.5K BTU roof air, and provided the same sleeping comfort level except the roof air played the part of a guessing game with the thermostat located first on the shroud, then on the middle of the wall. But then again, if energy cost is dirt cheap...

DBHMEH wrote:
Sorry, not "R" rated, what one wrong letter can do. Simple fix, hence poor design. Took the shroud down inside and noticed Coleman utilizes a flexible shoot or duct to blow the cooled air. If the "boot is not absolutely sealed to the plastic air channel, it will leak/blow the cooled air on the thermostat tube and give the unit a false temp. Again, cheap design. No RV repair is going to take the time to fix/sea; this adequately. Also, no I dont always run it. Just a boost during the hot hot days and while we park and run the gen. Thanks guys, should have taken pictures. David

Glad you found the problem. That design is somewhat problematic, but better than the Carrier was, and it just takes a small bit of care when installing to make it right- it should *never* have been released leaking like that.

Not sure how portables wormed in to this thread though....

DBHMEH wrote:
The primary is the main ducted unit with a wall thermostat and it freezes the entire living area. I would think one 13.5 would freeze a small bedroom, however, nope it does not. the thermostat and controls are integrated in the 13.5.

Alas, I think the "logical" conclusion here turns out to be wrong......partly because of the design of your new unit and having it in a space that probably is MUCH smaller than it was intended for.

If you run the fan continuously the temp might be more stable but the humidity likely would go up so it might not feel that much different.

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:

DBHMEH wrote:
Chris where is the thermostat tube and how do I identify.

The unit is 35ft and I thought a secong isolated unit in the bedroom would be great to help keep up. The primary is the main ducted unit with a wall thermostat and it freezes the entire living area. I would think one 13.5 would freeze a small bedroom, however, nope it does not. the thermostat and controls are integrated in the 13.5.

EXACTLY!!
My 11,000 btu dual hose kicks butt in AZ heat in my bedroom of my house. Single hose units should be banned as energy hogs. WTF were the engineers thinking creating negative pressure in the room and sucking in hot air?

RV AC units ONLY RECYCLE THE EXISTING AIR IN THE AREA/RV. They do NOT suck in air and create negative pressure. NEITHER do window or HOME units. Doug

Sorry, not "R" rated, what one wrong letter can do. Simple fix, hence poor design. Took the shroud down inside and noticed Coleman utilizes a flexible shoot or duct to blow the cooled air. If the "boot is not absolutely sealed to the plastic air channel, it will leak/blow the cooled air on the thermostat tube and give the unit a false temp. Again, cheap design. No RV repair is going to take the time to fix/sea; this adequately. Also, no I dont always run it. Just a boost during the hot hot days and while we park and run the gen. Thanks guys, should have taken pictures. David

DBHMEH wrote:
Chris where is the thermostat tube and how do I identify.

The unit is 35ft and I thought a secong isolated unit in the bedroom would be great to help keep up. The primary is the main ducted unit with a wall thermostat and it freezes the entire living area. I would think one 13.5 would freeze a small bedroom, however, nope it does not. the thermostat and controls are integrated in the 13.5.

EXACTLY!!
My 11,000 btu dual hose kicks butt in AZ heat in my bedroom of my house. Single hose units should be banned as energy hogs. WTF were the engineers thinking creating negative pressure in the room and sucking in hot air?

Well, when I saw the title for this thread, I thought for a minute it might be a bit R rated. LOL

I've got a 40' 5th wheel and I also put a 13.5 unit in the bedroom. About the only time we really use it is during the hottest part of the day. It seems to cool ok, but, surprisingly, the 15k unit cools the whole rig pretty well. Our biggest issue with it is the noise, and the heat strip, we installed just takes the edge off on cool nights. If you're trying to run the 13.5, and turn off the 15k, your not going to get the cooling you need IMHO. If your rig is a 5th wheel, the cool air is going to settle to the lower part of the trailer and the warm air will rise to the bedroom. Better to run both and set the thermostats accordingly.

DBHMEH wrote:
Chris where is the thermostat tube and how do I identify.

The unit is 35ft and I thought a secong isolated unit in the bedroom would be great to help keep up. The primary is the main ducted unit with a wall thermostat and it freezes the entire living area. I would think one 13.5 would freeze a small bedroom, however, nope it does not. the thermostat and controls are integrated in the 13.5.

It should easily keep that area cold. The thermostat tube comes right out of the thermostat, and should be in the return air flow- I have seen them stuck up in the coils, like a freeze sensor. That would certainly cause a problem.