1800watt nuwave oven

What is the 1800w? The cooking power or the input watts required as seen on the label on the back? EG a "1000w" MW will want more like 1500w input.

Cooking wattage

jimbo4UT wrote:
Cooking wattage

Check the back label for the "input 120v watts required". For 1800w cooking you are into the 2xxx watts and will need a 20a (120v) circuit and the plug-in for that. (the MW should have a 20a plug already)

A 30a RV could handle that if nothing much else is on at the same time.

if installed and you can't see the receptacle, check the breaker panel to see if the MW has its own 20a breaker. Should be ok if so. then it is all about power management on your part to , eg, don't have the WH on electric while running the MW or whatever your choices are. (Fridge is another) The converter could be a big one too if the batteries are low just then. MW is not on very long so no big deal leaving the other things off for that short of a time.

Just need to train DW and not get too many dirty looks! :)

This thing?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Nuwave-Bravo-XL-1800-Watt-Convection-Oven/275948146?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101024591&&adid=22222222227363911659&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=471959734255&wl4=pla-975089449373&wl5=9031536&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=241312892&wl11=online&wl12=275948146&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwutaCBhDfARIsAJHWnHspQ-ZNCkCxnoTTvwA9EPFwIcig0mfAQPNqjtcoJ1L2eyuNwMDLXM8aAhKCEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I don't think you will have any trouble.... However I recommend you unplug your MW and use that outlet as it is often a 20 amp circuit. Or try to use it on less than the max power level.

as long as you have two things
1) a 20 A circuit
2) a outlet that is a 20A outlet, not a 15A outlet.

I believe if the device really has a draw 1800W by NEC code it must have a 20A plug. 1800W is right at the limit for a 15A breaker.

It's common on 20A circuits to have 15A duplex outlets rather than 20A duplex outlets. If the trailer only has 15A outlets, you won't be able to plug it in, a 20A plug has one prong perpendicular to the other rather than two parallel prongs for the hot and neutral.

But then it is pretty uncommon to find home appliances, even in the kitchen, that have a draw that requires a 20A plug. for things like a microwave the 20A breaker requirement comes from the % draw NEC allows for a single dedicated device on a circuit, NEC limits the dedicated device draw to something like 80% of the breaker rating.

Code allows 1875 watts on a 15-amp circuit. BUT into a dedicated single receptacle. The plug if it has one decides the correct circuit for the unit. My monster Samsung is 100% stainless steel, and it came with a 20-amp plug. The merchant could not sell it, so I bagged it for $105 It will violently boil 4 cups of water in under a minute. The tag on the back says 17.8 amps

I was worried about much the same thing so decided to add an Extra Circuit Problem solved.

Being a bit of watt freak, I always check my devices. Rarely is the name plate accurate. I find, in general, that the wattage listed is too high for the "real life" output.

Of course wattage in resistance devices is affected by the square of the voltage.

The short answer is yes. but.. Be careful.
First you will newed to turn off most everything
Second the wiring in your RV is likely not up to "Grade" for that oven. you may burn out the outlet or an up-line outlet it's plugged into.

My RV was a 50 amp and I added "Kitchen 2" circuit. New breaker 12ga wire, GFCI *15/20 amp model* and a daisy off the gfci 15/20 outlet.

NO overheated wires on that line

We have been using the NuWave and it's previous models for 20+ years our RVs (both 30 and 50 amp) with no problems. It is a UL listed appliance for home countertop use.

Rich