1994 Bounder Fleetwood 454 Engine-Start Problems!

Moving the steering wheel will change how the linkage to the ignition switch moves. In different positions the linkage will change length slightly that would effect the movement of the switch.
The main thing for input to the PCM is the crank position sensor.

Did the steering wheel thing when I was experimenting didn't seem to make any change.. Did that again today when I was trying to start it didn't help as far as I know. I remembered someone saying that earlier, maybe you.... I can't believe all the help and ideas I am getting from everyone! Hope to be able to return the favor in the future!!!

I guess my question is what specifically tells the PCM fuel flow for idle and what tells it ff for throttle? I guess MAP, and Throttle Sensor??? is that correct?

Sounds now like a bad ignition switch.
Try moving the tilt steering wheel to a different angel. If it all the way up, move it to the down position.

I guess to make more clear what I believe to be causing the problem is the PCM is not getting the proper signals to tell the Injectors to pulsate fuel.. Some kind of intermitten signal problem, other wise I couldn't have ran for 15-20 minutes yesterday!!!

Sorry I have been dealing with this so long that I confuse myself!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Has to be in Electronics not getting proper signals!

The only things that haven't been changed now is MAP, Ignition Switch, Throttle Position Sensor. I am bafflled, how did it change overnight?????

Sorry my WIFI went down, Listen to this its bizarre to me, but late Saturday I started playing around or experimenting! One of the local mech made a comment to me, after we had checked the Injectors with a "Noise Light" it indicated both injectors were getting signal and pulsating like they should. He said that the PCM gets it information from the Distributor, then I remembered on the old engine what I did to get it to run. One I jumped past the Oil Gauge, and the other I started playing with the Distributor making minor adjustments. Thats how I made the old engine run for my short 20 mile run! So late Saturday I started doing the same thing with the distributor, and sure enough it started to run. 2 things at first as I was doing minor adjustments, it would start on its own and stop before getting regular fuel flow. Don't ask me why and I know better but I started it and held the key down with starter engaged and it would continue to run as long as I held the key in start position.. but as soon as I let up the key it would quit!!! So I kept making minor adjustments to distributor position and finally it continued to run on its own. (To do this I was holding the throttle open at about 1000RPM) If I let the throttle up it would not idle it would quit... I ran the engine for a good 15 to 20 minutes like that, the temps were up to about half normal range. So then I quit and decided to check for any leaks or problems.. None found.... I left the distributer in the position it was running in and stopped for the night.. So today I decided to try it again not changing anything.. Unfortunally it is back to where it was when I experimented the other day. It will start intially and stop not getting regular fuel flow. Again I tried to hold the key and it didn't do any good. Still baffeled????

If fuel pressure is staying steady and injectors are getting power, could be clogged injectors.

Edit.
Are you saying it starts on its own and dies? Or it starts with a shot of fuel?
If it is starting on its own and dies, could be ignition switch or oil pressure switch.

If you have adequate pressure at the rail and the injectors are pulsing but no fuel is coming out then the injectors are plugged. Don't trust the light - put a stethoscope on the injectors to hear them clicking. If they're clicking but no fuel is coming out then they'll need replaced.

Sort of related, I've had a #7 cylinder misfire in my truck's 5.3 liter engine for about a year. I don't drive it much so I didn't get to working on it until a couple of weeks ago. Swapping the coil, plug and wire from the #5 cylinder didn't fix it. At that time the plug looked good. No oil, not fouled. Compression check came up good. So I installed a new injector. STILL didn't fix it. Pulled the plug again and this time it was trashed from the lean condition in that cylinder - the insulator was cracked and it was burned up. So in the end it was originally a fuel delivery problem that turned into an electrical problem.