1998 Dometic RM 2652 refrigerator corrosion on plates

Its running now. I reconnected everything and running off the house 110. Getting cooler as I type Yeahhhhh

1. You have to run 24 hours to get the best low temp
2. 120 volts is all you need
3. A CORRECT operating CU will NOT have to be tilted or jiggled or ANYTHING to operate correctly. Doug

Yes it is a rebuilt unit from RVcool.com and Yes it was upright for the past 2 days. Its upright now in the camper for the past 13 hours almost level.
They said to roll the fridge side to side after installing everything when I had the fridge on its back. I flipped the cooling unit side to side, upside down and around before Installed to when the fridge was on its back but did not roll it side to side after that.

Do you think I need to pull it back out and roll it side to side when its on its back?

I also tried to run it direct to 100v, the gas is not installed yet because I was waiting for paint to dry on the bracket. Do you think it all needs to be installed or plugging in direct to 110v (The 110 plug on the refrigerator to an extension cord to my homes 110) should suffice to make it work?

I only ran it for a couple hours like this, didn't feel any change in temperature inside and the top of the cooling unit, felt from the roof was hot, the tank at the bottom was not hot at all.

heebeha wrote:
I installed a new cooling unit, went direct 110v to test it and it still isn't getting cool. The top of the cooling unit where the fins are on top is getting hot but the ank is cool. Does that make any sense. Before I changed the cooling unit, the tank was getting hot.

What can it be?

Is this a rebuilt CU? Did you leave it upright for 24 hours before either installing or after install before you fired it up? Doug

I installed a new cooling unit, went direct 110v to test it and it still isn't getting cool. The top of the cooling unit where the fins are on top is getting hot but the ank is cool. Does that make any sense. Before I changed the cooling unit, the tank was getting hot.

What can it be?

Any more options on keeping the aluminum foil tape verse filling in the crevices and holes? What about the inside of the fridge, there is some corrosion in the freezer? Foil tape as well inside the freezer where needed?

heebeha wrote:
What about using it for the holes and crevices caused by the corrosion?
Or am I better off with the aluminum foil tape I used to cover them?

Use the foil tape. Doug

What about using it for the holes and crevices caused by the corrosion?
Or am I better off with the aluminum foil tape I used to cover them?

Chris Bryant wrote:
I really would not use Arctic Silver for this, as it would take a couple of thousand dollars worth to do the job, it's not formulated for this application. The supplied mastic does fine.

You should have explained the Mastic is called TRANSFER mastic. It is not an insulator, but facilitates the transfer of COLD to the Evap plate and the freezer walls. Also, you CANNOT use too much Transfer Mastic. Using too little will cause problems in cooling. Doug

I really would not use Arctic Silver for this, as it would take a couple of thousand dollars worth to do the job, it's not formulated for this application. The supplied mastic does fine.