22.5 Wheel size ?????

You know you have really heavy tires and wheels when you need one of these...

I’ve never heard of a case of that. What truck has an axle like that?

burningman wrote:
Usually when the inner wheels are steel, it’s because the owner didn’t want to spend the extra money on Alcoas for the inside. You can install longer studs if needed.

Not quite. If the wheels are Hub Piloted, the portion of the Hub that does the actual centering, AND the load bearing, may not be broad enough to support the outer wheel if the inner wheel is overly thick.

As said before, there are two kinds of mounting: hub piloted that use big hole for centering and use nuts with flat washers and stud piloted that use conical nuts for centering.
Chances are the wheel you are trying to match is made by Accuride and will have part number stamped on the inside of the wheel together with max load and max pressure data.

Truck wheels are either “stud pilot” or “hub pilot”.
That means they either center themselves on the lug nuts, or they center themselves on the hub, by the big center hole.
Stud piloted wheels have beveled holes for the lug nuts, and use matching beveled lug nuts.
Hub piloted wheels don’t.
Usually when the inner wheels are steel, it’s because the owner didn’t want to spend the extra money on Alcoas for the inside.
You can install longer studs if needed.

Nothing looks as good as a set of polished Alcoas, I won’t roll on anything else on my pickup or big-trucks!

j-d wrote:
The wheel needs to have the same OFFSET as the originals. Wheels on dual wheeled vehicles always have Offset. Among other things, the correct Offset allows the correct clearance between the sidewalls of the rear tires.

Yes, . . . and in some cases (usually not on truck chassis) the offset is also required because of needed clearance for the brake drum/discs and/or calipers so that they don't contact the wheels. Also, in some cases, a certain offset (and wheel width) is required so that the tires/wheels don't contact the front inner fender wells or other suspension components when turning sharply.

In short, not every wheel fits every application because it's the same size. Always do a dry fit before you buy wheels unless they are EXACTLY the same as what they replace.


Chum lee

A "hub piloted" wheel carries the weight of the axle on the center hole not on the wheel studs/nuts. It is machines to fit the hub precisely.

To mount dual aluminum wheels the studs have to be long enough.

MrWizard wrote:
i detest RVs that have different front and rear wheels
like some do, this used to be common on Class C

Agreed! I don't want Alcoa's for that reason as well. Either the center hole shoulder on the Rear Hub isn't wide enough for two thick alloy wheels to pilot onto, Or the Studs aren't long enough. So Class C's, probably some pickups, and I've seen it on a diesel pusher, the inner rears are still steel when Alcoa's are installed. I've heard some Alloy Wheels are polished on only the side that shows when installed. Three different kinds of wheels for ONE RV? Hardly the Simple Life we hope for on the road.

The 10 nuts can be "pilot" and "hub pilot". Pilot are large nuts with a taper on one side that centers the Rim on the 10 bolts. Hub pilot is centered by the large center hole and the nuts are smaller and flat faced. You probably have hub pilot. The Rim in your picture looks to be a hub pilot as I cannot see any taper in the holes but it is a poor picture.
Your rims can be used in all positions.

on my Safari, all six 22.5" wheels are identical
the rear dual's are the same rims as the front

i detest RVs that have different front and rear wheels
like some do, this used to be common on Class C

but i did not think that it is still common

i'm on my 5th class A starting with a 1972 life Time on a dodge chassis

every one has had six identical wheels