3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here. In...
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Hello - new guy here. Just wanted to throw out some info. regarding fuel (gasoline). Here in California, a few years back, our gasoline had an effective additive that helped to stabilize it. In many cases, the fuel was good for about a year without any major degradation. But, the 'political engineers' decided to oxygenate the fuel to help us out with cleaner air. (I have a few opinions about this approach . . .) When they did this, out came the 'stabilizer’ resulting in a fuel that pretty much goes down hill drastically in about 21 days. Of course most of us use a tank of fuel sooner than this, but for all the boats, chain saws, outboard motors, motor homes, etc. in the world, there develops a problem; bad gas. The bad things are, once the fuel has ‘crashed’, it is not possible to bring it back to life – even with adding a fuel stabilizer. Only diluting it with fresh fuel will make whatever engine you’re trying to start, somewhat happy. So, the key to keeping your fuel fresh while being ‘stored’ is to add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel at fill up.
My second item has to do with “running out the fuel” in your 2 cycle engine and or 4 stroke engine. OMC(outboards) says that if you run the fuel out of the carburetor – and this applies to any 2 stroke engine – there is virtually no effective lubrication available for a second or two when first staring up the engine. This is bad for the cylinder walls, rings, bearing, etc. due to excessive frictional wear. Both fuel and oil mix helps to lubricate these internal trinkets. On any other engine, including a 2 stroke, the carburetor with no fuel in it will surely begin to rapidly develop a varnish like build up(the air will evaporate the remaining fuel, leaving behind an unwanted gift of ‘muck’) and the needle valves, jets, float, etc. will be very unhappy, causing poor starting/running performance or will not start at all. I can’t count the number of times I have had a customer tell me his engine was running great 4 months ago but now cannot get it started. One look at the ‘dry’ carburetor was sufficient. Take it off and apart, clean it, put it back together, install it, fill it with fuel and she would be back humming again. Truly, a good procedure to follow is: when adding fuel, put in a fuel stabilizer. Don’t run it ‘dry, you’ll just increase the severity of muck developing. Hope this helps.
My second item has to do with “running out the fuel” in your 2 cycle engine and or 4 stroke engine. OMC(outboards) says that if you run the fuel out of the carburetor – and this applies to any 2 stroke engine – there is virtually no effective lubrication available for a second or two when first staring up the engine. This is bad for the cylinder walls, rings, bearing, etc. due to excessive frictional wear. Both fuel and oil mix helps to lubricate these internal trinkets. On any other engine, including a 2 stroke, the carburetor with no fuel in it will surely begin to rapidly develop a varnish like build up(the air will evaporate the remaining fuel, leaving behind an unwanted gift of ‘muck’) and the needle valves, jets, float, etc. will be very unhappy, causing poor starting/running performance or will not start at all. I can’t count the number of times I have had a customer tell me his engine was running great 4 months ago but now cannot get it started. One look at the ‘dry’ carburetor was sufficient. Take it off and apart, clean it, put it back together, install it, fill it with fuel and she would be back humming again. Truly, a good procedure to follow is: when adding fuel, put in a fuel stabilizer. Don’t run it ‘dry, you’ll just increase the severity of muck developing. Hope this helps.
