3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

Dan86300zxt wrote:

Dan86300zxt wrote:
Thanks Professor and TeamSlacker.

^^Looks like the PD9160A (60amp,1000watts continous 120v input required)
is what I am going to go with...I'd go with a larger 70 or 80 amp, but two things tell me to be careful...the size load on the generator and the lack of understanding if there are any peaks/surge power requirement for these chargers when in boost mode.(I'm am failing to realize what Professor is trying to tell me about not worrying on the PD design chargers.)

*I did some measuring today and it looks like I am going to be going to Sams Club for 6 GC batteries.(lol, managed to come up with the funds to make life work)

**Yes, Professor...I am very aware of the sensitivity of the specific items for the generator and the need for sufficient airflow/cooling.

I will be engineering the MH compartment to move more air than what the manufacture has designed into the completed original generator and relocating certain items further away from heat.

***I found my MH has a 5/16" fuel injection hose with a shut-off valve coming from the original gas tank.(looks like its located at about the 1/4 fuel level height.)
-I am spinning the idea of putting a cheap low pressure pump inline with this to a custom smaller stainless steel tank that has a liquid level switch to control the pump...leaving the custom tank as a gravity feed to the carb on the generator and venting the tank to a charcoal canister I have.
-The charcoal canister can be "T'd" into the Valve cover vent for the generator to suck the fumes through the air cleaner and into the engine for combustion.
^^^Hmmm...this way I am merely looking at the mounting of the engine and generator with the electrical slightly relocated...no large goofy sized plastic fuel tank to deal with or any of the plastics period. I am also looking at the cooling fan that can be removed from this engine...it seems to me, in principle, that the original engine fan is going to mess with my airflow design for the cabinet. I am planning to funnel two 4 amp/900cfm fans worth of airflow through this cabinet(a suck blow total of 8 amps/1800cfm).
Dan

**********************************************************************-Professor95,TeamSlacker, Wizard...Someone who knows:

*I am planning all my wiring for my new components. After alot of research on here and other places, I am finding conflicting information regarding a few things that I hope you can clarify for me.

My 23' 1977 Dodge MH has two wire a/c outlets through-out it...not the 3-wire todays standard type.
-My new genset, and Go-Power pure sine wave converter have Grounding/Bonding recomendations to chassis ground.(maybe my PD 60amp converter/charger too..I haven't received it yet..)

*I know that this MH uses a completely isolated 12v inverter and used to have a single 12v battery for all the house 12v circuits.(meaning that all positive and ground connections were kept to the system wiring itself for the house only..in other words, no grounds leading to any chassis ground to the MH)
*I know that the MH engine battery and chassis electrical is seperate from the House and uses the chassis as ground for the 12v system.

-Question is..."What do I do with these ground or bonding points on each one of these new pieces of equipment I am adding to my MH.

Is there an update I should be doing to the a/c wiring and outlets to be safer?

HELP!!

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UPDATE!
-I removed the house circuit breaker cover and can see a white wire(neutral)bar, a ground bar, and 1 larger 30 amp breaker, and a 1 standard sized split "dual" breaker 15 amp/20 amp. The Breaker box is of the 50 amp service type(says on the inside of the cover.) My Shore power RV plug is wired to a junction box inside the spare tire carrier area on my MY. The ground wire from my RV shore power plug is grounded to that junction box, and a seperate ground with no plastic covering, along with a 10-2 wire...leads to the house breaker box and 30 amp breaker.(so there is actually 2 grounds leading from the shore power junction box to the breaker box)
-In the rear of my MH,(The spare tire area)..there is a special outlet that matches the RV shore power plug. This was used for the original generator on the MH.(I'll be hardwiring this to my Inverter)

*Am I right in thinking that the Generator, Pure sine wave inverter, and battery charger/inverter should have the Bonded/Ground safety connections made to the rear shore power junction box?????

**BTW...I figured out how to "pop" off the outlet covers in the MH. What I for a wired outlet is of a different variety...there is no screw at the top and bottom securing the outlet into place, such as the design like in most homes today. I don't know how to pull the outlet receptacle out any further with-out making a mess to fix.

***AND.....I was wrong...these all are 3 wire outlets. Meaning, they will accept a plug with the ground.(for some reason, I thought they were only two.) I was wanting to switch a couple of the outlet recepticles to the GFCI type for safety..the outlet near the sink and bathroom......BUT.....I just remembered, the pure sine wave inverter I have uses a GFCI, so as long as the recomendation on the Bonding/Ground connection is correct, and assuming my outlets are grounded...I should be safe.
(I picked up 6- 6 Volt Energizer 220AH GC2's from Sams Club yesterday..$79.95 ea!!!...Getting excited to wrap this up!!)
Ground/Bonding recomendations please...help.
Dan