3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here. In...
Forum Discussion
Professor,
When using the 46514 in the 220volt mode and you build a box with two 15 amp circuits, each supplied by a seperate winding, I noticed in the wiring diagram of this generator on CPE's site that the AVR samples a portion of one of the windings. So... if you use one of the 15 amp circuits where the AVR is not sampling from, the voltage on the leg would fall when loaded. The other leg stays at or around 124 volts. If you use the other circuit where the AVR samples from the winding, the voltage on that leg stays at or around 124 volts when loaded, however, the unused leg voltage increases when there is no load on it.
I have read something about this, here in the recent past.
How to get 220 volts from a 120 volt Champion 3500 / 4000 Watt generator, model number 46515.
I have the 46515 which is a 120 volt only model with a 30 amp 3 prong along with the RV connector and a single 20 amp receptacle. During Irene, I took the cover off the generator head and removed the 4 wires coming from each of the windings. Originally, it was 2 blacks on the first nut and 2 dark reds on the second nut, thus parallel allowing me to get the full 3500 watts on the twist lock or RV connection. I removed the wires from the block and I metered each pair (dark red and black is one pair, and a dark red and black for the other pair) to determine which pair belonged to what winding... I reattached the wires to the wiring block in the following order 1 black on first nut, 1 dark red and 1 black on second nut and 1 dark red on the third nut. See my picture below.
The 14-2 romex was attached at the far ends of the block as pictured to give me 220 volts to the well pump.
Just before attaching the two wires to go to the panel on the generator for 120 volts, I did another test. As indicated above, I found that only one of the windings is sampled by the AVR. I attached the red and white wires as indicated by my picture to two of the nuts and put a small load on it and took voltage readings. This is where I saw the voltage fall off, but the other winding remained at 124 volts. I then switched the red and white going to the panel to the other two nuts and ran the same test. With the small load, the voltage to my generator panel remained at 124 volts, however, the other leg increased to 140 volts. This would give me use of the generator panel to supply 110 volts to small stuff, ie, 1 refridgerator, a couple of the mini flourescent lights, etc. This allowed enough start power from the generator to start and run the well pump.
This is where I say that if you want to know the absolute minimum sized generator you can buy to run a few things at home... if you have a 220 volt well pump, 3500/4000 generator is it. This thing bogs significantly for about 1/2 a second and once the pump is up and running, it is no longer an issue.
****Safety note: when metering the field wires from the generator, I did this with the generator off and used an Ohm meter. Preferably one that beeps when you have continuity. If you don't know what you are doing, please don't attempt. If you attempt to wire the red and white wires going to the panel to nuts 1 and 3 to get 220 volts to the panel, when you start the generator, the moment it sees about 160 volts it shuts off due to the overvoltage protection circuit. I am not going to admit that I was trying to get 220 volts to the panel on my generator and attempt to wire to my well pump with the 3 prong adapter and then leave this behind and hope my DW does not plug anything else into it... No.
When using the 46514 in the 220volt mode and you build a box with two 15 amp circuits, each supplied by a seperate winding, I noticed in the wiring diagram of this generator on CPE's site that the AVR samples a portion of one of the windings. So... if you use one of the 15 amp circuits where the AVR is not sampling from, the voltage on the leg would fall when loaded. The other leg stays at or around 124 volts. If you use the other circuit where the AVR samples from the winding, the voltage on that leg stays at or around 124 volts when loaded, however, the unused leg voltage increases when there is no load on it.
I have read something about this, here in the recent past.
How to get 220 volts from a 120 volt Champion 3500 / 4000 Watt generator, model number 46515.
I have the 46515 which is a 120 volt only model with a 30 amp 3 prong along with the RV connector and a single 20 amp receptacle. During Irene, I took the cover off the generator head and removed the 4 wires coming from each of the windings. Originally, it was 2 blacks on the first nut and 2 dark reds on the second nut, thus parallel allowing me to get the full 3500 watts on the twist lock or RV connection. I removed the wires from the block and I metered each pair (dark red and black is one pair, and a dark red and black for the other pair) to determine which pair belonged to what winding... I reattached the wires to the wiring block in the following order 1 black on first nut, 1 dark red and 1 black on second nut and 1 dark red on the third nut. See my picture below.
The 14-2 romex was attached at the far ends of the block as pictured to give me 220 volts to the well pump.
Just before attaching the two wires to go to the panel on the generator for 120 volts, I did another test. As indicated above, I found that only one of the windings is sampled by the AVR. I attached the red and white wires as indicated by my picture to two of the nuts and put a small load on it and took voltage readings. This is where I saw the voltage fall off, but the other winding remained at 124 volts. I then switched the red and white going to the panel to the other two nuts and ran the same test. With the small load, the voltage to my generator panel remained at 124 volts, however, the other leg increased to 140 volts. This would give me use of the generator panel to supply 110 volts to small stuff, ie, 1 refridgerator, a couple of the mini flourescent lights, etc. This allowed enough start power from the generator to start and run the well pump.
This is where I say that if you want to know the absolute minimum sized generator you can buy to run a few things at home... if you have a 220 volt well pump, 3500/4000 generator is it. This thing bogs significantly for about 1/2 a second and once the pump is up and running, it is no longer an issue.
****Safety note: when metering the field wires from the generator, I did this with the generator off and used an Ohm meter. Preferably one that beeps when you have continuity. If you don't know what you are doing, please don't attempt. If you attempt to wire the red and white wires going to the panel to nuts 1 and 3 to get 220 volts to the panel, when you start the generator, the moment it sees about 160 volts it shuts off due to the overvoltage protection circuit. I am not going to admit that I was trying to get 220 volts to the panel on my generator and attempt to wire to my well pump with the 3 prong adapter and then leave this behind and hope my DW does not plug anything else into it... No.
