3500 lb. axle castle nut
Does anyone really use a torque wrench to set the castle nut(50ft.lbs)? before you back it off and hand tighten it? If so, what size socket does that take? 1 1/2"? I think the 3500lb axle uses a 1" ca...
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Procedure according to Dexter axle service manual HERE
Page 56..
"For standard grease or oil axles using cotter pin:
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs.(12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.
4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin.
5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut.
6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin."
So, "approximately 50 FT LBS" which they mention using a 12" long wrench or pliers with full HAND force.
No need to use a torque wrench when using 12" wrench or pliers as long as you follow the procedure above.
Been doing that procedure the same way on 1970's and up vehicles since I started driving (that is the way my Dad showed me how to set wheel bearings) with no failures and the procedure works fine with trailer axles.
The only difference between auto axles and trailer axles is the trailer axles use a very coarse thread and the castlated nut has fewer castlations which means not as fine of as a adjustment as auto axles and the bearings on trailer axles tend to operate with some slack or slop. Auto axles on the other hand needs zero slack so they use a much finer thread and the castlated nut has many more castlations.
Page 56..
"For standard grease or oil axles using cotter pin:
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs.(12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.
4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin.
5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut.
6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin."
So, "approximately 50 FT LBS" which they mention using a 12" long wrench or pliers with full HAND force.
No need to use a torque wrench when using 12" wrench or pliers as long as you follow the procedure above.
Been doing that procedure the same way on 1970's and up vehicles since I started driving (that is the way my Dad showed me how to set wheel bearings) with no failures and the procedure works fine with trailer axles.
The only difference between auto axles and trailer axles is the trailer axles use a very coarse thread and the castlated nut has fewer castlations which means not as fine of as a adjustment as auto axles and the bearings on trailer axles tend to operate with some slack or slop. Auto axles on the other hand needs zero slack so they use a much finer thread and the castlated nut has many more castlations.
