Forum Discussion

BFL13's avatar
BFL13
Explorer II
Nov 28, 2017

750mv vs 12v Thermostat Question UPDATE 2

Updated 29 Nov-- Update 2--29 Nov: got it to work.

Not clear on the thermostat voltage for these things whether I can use the cheaper version or what. I want it for my furnace only set-up in the RV that has the two 12v wires going into the back of the existing thermostat that is not working right--bad sensor it seems.

Honeywell tech support says their only model that is for 12v is the CT53K as in this example. It says it is for 750 millivolts

https://www.sylvane.com/honeywell-ct53k1006-millivolt-thermostat.html

However, this economy one looks similar but says it works with 750 millivolt.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/honeywell-economy-linevolt-thermostat-0528505p.html#srp

I will need to add an on/off switch to the 12v line so it won't try to run the furnace when the RV is not being used and it is colder out than the thermostat's temp range goes down to.

What's the story with these things? Thanks.
  • One question
    Do you not have. Or not use the battery disconnect switch in the RV

    Or just pull the heater fuse in the 12v fuses panel
  • Well as usual CTC "tech" support is WRONG! It is a simple 2 wire stat. It is battery powered and all it does is open and close the contact, just like the old analog stat.the one in your link is the one I would have suggested, and is very similar to the Garrison that I bought at CTC last year and it controls the furnace just fine. No more guessing what temp you have actually set.
    And the On/Off switch is built right in.
  • Sometimes the on/off switch is built into the slider. Moving it past the lowest official setting engages a cam or similar that keeps the contacts open.

    I second Old-Biscuit's suggestion of a digital thermostat. Amazon sells This basic LUX branded one for under $20 that looks halfway decent to me (and apparently has adjustable temperature swing settings).

    Digital ones have the advantage of not being susceptible to erratic operation when bouncing around, such as when driving on the road.
  • Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Why not go with a digital mode vs those analog manual slider control types?

    Digital heat only roughly $27 at that Canadian Tire website.
    And more accurate temp control

    Shouldn't need to add an ON/OFF switch. T-stat can be turned OFF



    IS old t-stat not working.....or is issue with furnace?
    Connecting the two wires together will make furnace run IF t-stat is bad.
    If furnace does NOT run when the two wires are connected then Furnace has problem


    The furnace runs properly but the thermostat does not control the heat properly, so it is the thermostat that needs replacing for sure.

    Don't mind digital, don't need programmable, but mainly trying to get a simple manual thermostat that does not have the bubble level and that works with the two 12v wires.

    Some do not have an on-off switch apparently. The old one there now has a switch, but if you leave it "on" and turn the temp right down, and it is colder out than that, the furnace will stay on trying to get the temp up to that lowest number. So I can see from that why you should have an on-off switch.
  • Why not go with a digital mode vs those analog manual slider control types?

    Digital heat only roughly $27 at that Canadian Tire website.
    And more accurate temp control

    Shouldn't need to add an ON/OFF switch. T-stat can be turned OFF



    IS old t-stat not working.....or is issue with furnace?
    Connecting the two wires together will make furnace run IF t-stat is bad.
    If furnace does NOT run when the two wires are connected then Furnace has problem
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    There are three types of thermostats
    one uses a mechanical make/break switch. You can see the contacts open and close. A small magnet provides some Difference between make and break temps
    ACE Hardware (As I recall) or True Value (If not ace) sells one for 20 bucks

    These work on both 750MV 12 volt DC and 24 volt AC, all the same it does not care.. It also does not need to be perfectly level making it ideal for RV use.

    The second has a liquid (Mercury) Filled capsule on the end of a spring, the weight of the Mercury (liquid metal) provides the difference between Make and Break.. Like the above it works on all systems. UNLIKE the above it must be leveled else the settings will be off.. I do not recommend for RV use

    The third is Electronic. This type is system specific, I do not recommend.