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Trackrig's avatar
Trackrig
Explorer II
Jun 21, 2015

A different idea on where to mount solar panels.

We do a bit of boondocking and I'd like to install some solar panels. However, I'm still not sold on the idea of keeping this MH (2005 Fleetwood Excursion 39S Cat C7 350hp w/4 Trojan 125s) so I don't want to mount anything on the roof at this time. I have looked at it and should be able to get at least 650 - 700 watts up there without a problem.

So that leaves with where to put the panels? I could buy a couple fold up units but that doesn't deliver a lot of power and I don't like the idea of always setting something up and taking it down - we usually don't stay someplace more than three days.

So here's the "different" location I'm considering. Our toad is a Jeep Wrangler that came with a rack over the hard top. In the three years we've had it, we've never put anything up there. So why not mount the panels on the Jeep roof rack??? In checking measurements, I can get three 100W panels up there without a problem. Securing them would be simple because the metal rack frame is already there. It would be easy to tilt them since I can do it from the ground without climbing up and down the MH ladder. The panels would be "portable" - just move the Jeep into the sun even if the MH is parked in the shade. The only set up or takedown would be running the cable from the panels on the Jeep to the MH when we park. They'd also be easy to reach for cleaning.

What size of cable would be best to run 55' from the Jeep to the MH for 300W? I'm using 55' because Jeep may need to be at the front end of the MH and the batteries are at the left rear.

No, I haven't picked any particular panels yet. I've just been looking at the rack dimensions vs panel sizes. While my original thought was to mount the three 100W panels down in the rack, that could lead to a shadow from the top rack rail on them. If I mounted them to sit on top of the rail it would eliminate the rail shadow, make mounting easier, make it easier to fabricate a tilting frame, and maybe allow for slightly larger panels.

What have I missed with this idea?

Thanks,
Bill

10 Replies

  • Naio's avatar
    Naio
    Explorer II
    Jun 21, 2015
    accsys wrote:
    The batteries are not going to get much of a charge when you are out running around in the Wrangler but other than that a very workable solution. I myself wouldn't want to be tied down to the campsite to keep the batteries charged.


    You could put a couple batteries IN the Wrangler, to charge while running around. And the rest in the rear of the MH, to minimise cable losses.
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    Jun 21, 2015
    Put them on the roof of the MH. If you sell ask for an extra $1,000 or it comes off.
    Not a huge deal.
  • pianotuna's avatar
    pianotuna
    Nomad III
    Jun 21, 2015
    Hi Bill,

    Kyocera is one brand name that comes to mind. I'm certain there are others.

    Another path would be to use a panel with an integrated charge controller such as ac_solar_panels This would essentially eliminate voltage drop as you would be transmitting 120 volts a.c.


    Trackrig wrote:
    Don, this is the OP.

    I've started doing a little more looking at panels. If you want to make a suggestion on one large higher voltage, I'd certainly look at it.

    Bill
  • Trackrig's avatar
    Trackrig
    Explorer II
    Jun 21, 2015
    pianotuna wrote:
    Hi,

    Use an MPPT controller that allows high voltage input. Wire the panels in series or get one large high voltage panel.



    Don, this is the OP.

    I've started doing a little more looking at panels. If you want to make a suggestion on one large higher voltage, I'd certainly look at it.

    Bill
  • Trackrig's avatar
    Trackrig
    Explorer II
    Jun 21, 2015
    accsys wrote:
    The batteries are not going to get much of a charge when you are out running around in the Wrangler but other than that a very workable solution. I myself wouldn't want to be tied down to the campsite to keep the batteries charged.


    John, this is the OP.

    You're right, unless I build my connecting cable a little longer......

    But like at Q, after you're made a trip to the Big Top for half of a day there's not a lot of other to go see or do other than an occasional chocolate milk shake run so the Jeep will be there most of the time.

    While I'm not a greeny by any definition of the word, I like things such as solar that once I've paid for them, that's pretty well it. I don't like having to continuously pay for things - let's say the way software is going like MS Office. I don't mind paying for the package and once I have, it's mine. I don't like the way they're trying to heard people to monthly/year subscriptions and then eventually charging you for cloud storage.

    If I can pay for solar and not have to keep putting diesel in the generator and or do maintenance on it, then I'll be happy to sit around enjoying the view or reading a book in the quiet.

    Bill
  • pianotuna's avatar
    pianotuna
    Nomad III
    Jun 21, 2015
    Hi,

    Use an MPPT controller that allows high voltage input. Wire the panels in series or get one large high voltage panel.
  • accsys's avatar
    accsys
    Explorer
    Jun 21, 2015
    The batteries are not going to get much of a charge when you are out running around in the Wrangler but other than that a very workable solution. I myself wouldn't want to be tied down to the campsite to keep the batteries charged.
  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    Jun 21, 2015
    You're in Alaska so have inherent mechanical aptitude. ;)

    Things noted: One large 24V module is easier to mount than three smaller ones. 30 OCV means lighter cabling than the smaller panels' output. If you're willing to put up with dealing with the attachment cables and willing to give up storage charging (assumes the toad doesn't stay hitched), go for it.

    Solar is just made for RV's. If setup correctly, it is a hands-off charging system.
  • Jim's avatar
    Jim
    Explorer
    Jun 21, 2015
    You'd need 8GA. 6GA would be better.

    You are talking 25 amps at 12V and the wire and all the connectors must be properly sized for going that distance. You'd want quick disconnects too, probably.

    What you may have missed is the difficulty in dealing with a 'temporary' system setup. When you park, you'll have to mess with setting it up and big heavy wire like that will get to be a chore dealing with in short order.

    Consider this...a roof mounting system for solar panels only uses several wood screws (lag bolts), screwed into the wooden rafters all RVs use to make the roof. When you sell the RV, just have those few holes patched. You could do it easily with Eternabond. The wiring usually is taped to the roof and makes it's way down to the battery compartment via the refer vent. Again, easily removed, or cut and left in place.
  • 2oldman's avatar
    2oldman
    Explorer II
    Jun 21, 2015
    Trackrig wrote:
    What size of cable would be best to run 55' from the Jeep to the MH for 300W?
    Big. Consider a 24v or higher PV array.

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