AC Causing Power Inturruption

I would check my 120VAC line and see if it is within normal specs when the Air Conditioner is running... I would not want to operate my RV Air Conditioner if the input 120VAC from the pedestal is lower that 105VAC.

Roy Ken

HOW do you know the roof AC is causing this problem??? I have NEVER seen such a problem as you state and the fact that ALL 120 breakers are off while the power is restored and the Converter relay kicks back in points to your SHORE supply and/or Power Cord having a problem. There is NOTHING in the roof AC that will cause any type of power interruption, unless your supply voltage power is not above 110 volts. If the roof AC had a problem, it would trip the dedicated 20 amp breaker in your RV breaker panel for the AC. The Converter has nothing to do with the AC operation, it only supplies 12 volt power to the RV. Doug

Is any thing else turning off, when the A/C compressor cycles
My vizio tv will drop out when voltage lags/drops when the compressor cycles, If I have the TV on a regular outlet
If the TV is on the inverter...no problem

Two ways to fix the problem
Turn the thermostat cooler..keep the a/c running , not cycling on off
Or power the the TV from an inverter
Most Converters don't have relays, unless they are combo inverter_chargers, in which case that is an internal transfer switch
If you don't have a combo unit...
Then most likely your ATS is making that racket, that means shore voltage is too low and drops really bad when the compressor cycles
The ATS will probably die before the A/C unit, but both are in danger

The ats is a real "PAIN" to replace

If the voltage to your TT is good (as per RoyB's suggestion), I'd pursue the possibility of a loose power connection feeding your a/c. Having a 15-20 amp load go full-on/off/on quickly (from an intermittent connection) would explain some of your symptoms. I'd remove power, then check the wire nuts & connectors located in the immediate area of your rooftop a/c unit (both inside and topside, underneath the shroud), plus the a/c breaker terminals, for secure connections.

Good luck!

You need to figure out what is clicking and why.
Is there a transfer switch, generator, power protection EMS, or inverter involved?

Monitoring voltage during the next event is a good start. Looking for 108 to 128.

Probably not the converter... what is battery voltage during the event? Looking for about 13.6 steady.

If you happen to have a Progressive Industries EMS installed, you'll get a lot of clicking if the input voltage drops to approx. 85-90 volts. That's the minimum voltage necessary to operate the internal relay and circuitry.

Some thoughts:

*If* you are positive all 120 volt circuits are dropping out simultaneously, there is a clicking sound, and it automatically restores, there could be an EMS unit that is shutting power off due to low voltage. An EMS could be installed next to the converter.

If you have a Progressive Industries unit (aka "surge protector') like the EMS-HW50C, it will cut out when the voltage drops below 104 volts. If it does drop out, it will automatically turn back on in the factory setting of 15 seconds unless it has be reset for 136 seconds. You don't want to let an AC unit repeatedly "short-cycle" and they should not be re-started or allowed to restart for around 2-4 minutes.

Heartland lists a generator as an option for the OP's TH. If there is a generator, maybe it's the ATS. An ATS, such as this Surge Guard unit, will drop out when the voltage gets down to 95 volts and will restore power after a 150 second delay. Allowing voltage to get down to 95 volts is not good for an AC IMO, but that's another topic in itself. There would be a clicking sound similar to an EMS from the contactor.

If there is a low voltage condition, an AC unit will draw more current which can it turn cause the voltage to drop farther. An AC unit can sometimes itself cause short cycling which will draw more current, and possibly trip the AC breaker or even main breaker and cause a voltage drop. (A poorly placed t'stat can also cause an AC to short cycle.) Short-cycling *could* potentially cause an EMS or ATS to drop out.

There are other potential causes of low voltage like a dirty & pitted shore power plug and poor connections.

Getting a voltage monitor is a good idea so you can regularly keep an eye on what's happening. A voltmeter would help too.

I would suspect a low voltage condition and you'll need to find the cause.

If it is simply a low supply voltage situation and there is an EMS and/or ATS, you could use an autoformer like the Franks or Hughes units, which boost the incoming voltage.

Thanks all for the input. Everything seems to be pointing to a low voltage situation.