Amature Wiring Diagram. I Need Help.

Wire guage is a function of amps and wire length. Google voltage drop and there are calaculators.

Another consideration with very light guage wires is they may be fine for power transission but mechancial vibrations can cause them to fail. 20gauge is a little lighter than I like.

I disagree with the person who said, you don't need a switch for the water pump. If the pressure switch in the pump fails, you want to be able to cut power to the pump without cutting power to all the lights.

I think you need a blow up of the main panel showing how the AC & DC circuits fit together (or more accuratlely are kept apart.

You have a triple switch, and usually you can feed each switch with a separate wire from the DC fuse panel. I have the same switch panel, oddly... I would feed a separate line from the fuse panel to the switch panel for each basic load, one for the ceiling lights, one for the outside light and one for the water pump. I would use no smaller than 16 gauge for the lights, and 14 gauge for the water pump. I would use a 15 amp fuse for the water pump, and probably 10 amp fuses for the lights. Always remember that the fuse protects the wiring, not the load. Always match all of the wire in a circuit to the fuse that protects it. You have 20 gauge wiring to the loads, which is rated for only 7.5 amps, but are protecting it with a 15 amp fuse.

Brian

In your diagram the water pump is on the same switch as the lights. It does not need to be switched and should have larger wire than 20 AWG. The pumps draw approx. 4 amps so 12 AWG or 14 AWG are good wire sizes. Also, you have the LED floodlight and the cabin lights as on the same switch. I would think you need to switch them separately.
You probably know all this and it may be the diagram that is leading me astray.

Good luck with your wiring project.

I think I'm finally starting to understand lol. I greatly appreciate your help guys:)

So, Im going to beef up the battery cables to 4 gauge wire, properly run them in a series, and add an inline 50AMP fuse.

I think I'll just hold off on the inverter and transfer switch for now... Its not really necessary seeing as how nothing in my trailer uses 110v..

Is there anything else you guys recommend that I wire in before I put the paneling back on?

Thanks again!

So the "AC/DC" in its description must just be saying that it'll output AC if it's plugged in from a 110v AC outlet?

Exactly, it operates as a 120V distribution panel, also a 12V distribution panel, and you probably have a AC-> DC converter integrated into it that operates as a 12VDC power supply and charges the house battery.

As SMK said, to power your receptacles using the battery as source, you'll need an inverter and a transfer switch.

The mighty mini is a typical RV panel. It is split into two systems including distribution of 120vac with a main and five branch circuit breakers. You need to supply 120v power from the utility, generator or an inverter.

Separately it has a 12v distribution with a stack of maybe 10 fuses for multiple circuits. The converter is the connection between the 120v and 12v sides. Unfortunately it only goes one way 120v --> 12v The converter will also keep the battery charged as the battery connects on the 12v side. So again the 12v side just distributes 12v power supplied by the converter or direct from the battery.

Thanks for the help smkettner!
I was thinking that the mighty mini panel would be doing the inverting.
So the "AC/DC" in its description must just be saying that it'll output AC if it's plugged in from a 110v AC outlet?

Yes the lights are low power and can all be on one switch.
No you will need to add an inverter and transfer switch to power the outlets from the battery.

As long as you are pulling wire I would go #4 for the main battery cables to improve charging. The 6v batteries need to be wired in series. Need about 50 amp fuse near the + battery terminal.