anode rod threads

What Dusty said. I was scrolling through this thread preparing to say that. Can also use a flat file with teeth on the edge. File the threads, parallel to the nipple's length. Position the file so the edge will create a nearly square surface positioned so it'll cut into the rust as the nipple goes clockwise. The flat side of the file will create a ramp leading to the notch with that edge. Even a chain saw file. Cut deep enough to form a semi-circular cut. Salvaged a pool pump that had rusty steel stuck in its plastic housing. That time I used a pipe plug, but a nipple 4-6" long would be good for the water heater since you can see how it's lining up. Don't want to cross thread either the chaser or the anode itself.

Dusty R wrote:
Make your own pipe thread chaser. Take a steel pipe of the same size as the dirty threads. With a hack saw or cutoff wheel. cut three or four slots in the end of the pipe across the threads.

Dusty

Thanks, Dusty. Gonna' be storing that one in memory for later.

Make your own pipe thread chaser. Take a steel pipe of the same size as the dirty threads. With a hack saw or cutoff wheel. cut three or four slots in the end of the pipe across the threads.

Dusty

3/4'' pipe tap for me, about $20 at local ace hardware, works nice to clean threads

We clean the threads every fall when we winterize by using the round wire brush used when soldering copper. Then we take a clean cloth, dab it liberally into vaseline, wipe the threads and then leave the cloth loosely in the hole over the winter. When we put the anode rod back in during our spring prep, it goes in smoothly. We also use teflon tape around the rod to help eliminate leaks.

Two ways for me.

One, put a wire brush of the right bore in the drill and clean them up.

Two. Get the NPT tap and clean them up.

Why try to mess with all the dope and tape and tuff?

MFL wrote:
Thanks all, for the replies!

With the new rod, I am only getting it to turn in a couple of threads, before it is tight. It leaks a little, even with the teflon tape. I don't want to over tighten it, with only a few threads catching.

I used a dental pick, that helped some, but I think I'll try the round wire brush idea.

The only pipe thread chaser I could locate was just over $70. I don't feel like getting robbed!! Lol

Thanks again,
Jerry

Go to a hardware store and get a 3/4" pipe nipple
Thread the nipple in/out a little more each time to chase the threads.

Thanks all, for the replies!

With the new rod, I am only getting it to turn in a couple of threads, before it is tight. It leaks a little, even with the teflon tape. I don't want to over tighten it, with only a few threads catching.

I used a dental pick, that helped some, but I think I'll try the round wire brush idea.

The only pipe thread chaser I could locate was just over $70. I don't feel like getting robbed!! Lol

Thanks again,
Jerry

My threads are about as rusty as you can imagine. But when I put the rod in (with a bit of teflon tape), I snug it up finger tight and then give a little snug "umph" with a socket. Never leaks. The rod will never go all the way in. As said above, the hole is tapered.

Also, if you do wire-brush it down, it will just rust up again. And then you've got rust particles inside your water heater. You'll want to follow up by flushing out tank so those rust particles will not come on through your system. Granted, they will probably get trapped at your faucet filters.

Edit: I'd NEVER use any kind of chemicals to clean the rust off. You run the risk of deteriorating the metal threads, and getting chemicals inside your tank.

There are wire brushes made just for cleaning out the threads, you should beable to get one at any hardware store. As said before the threads are tappered so do not plan on the threads going all the way in, use tefflon tape also