I have an 2001 Atwood 6 gallon water heater that will run one complete heating cycle then go into the lock out mode. If I shut off the switch then turn it back on, it works fine for another complete cycle then goes back into lock out.I have replaced the control board, gas valve, thermostat, ECO, igniter, thermocouple and gas tube. I have 12 plus volts at the board and have cleaned and confirmed a good ground.Both the Thermostat and ECO switches check out fine with a continuity tester.When it’s operating, the flame is text book color. I also ran a rag through the U Tube to confirm no blockage or debris.I did notice a voltage drop in the Red wire. 12.7 volts at board and 12.3 volts at Other end. Don’t know if this matters or not but I am going to replace the connector.I have a new regulator and manometer coming in the next day or so.What am I missing?Any help would be appreciated.

1. HOW do you know it is in lock out mode? Red Light ON?2. IF in lockout, you need to check for continuity at the tstat and the ECO. They should have continuity. If they do NOT, then which has no continuity that is your problem3. Atwood had a bad batch of Circuit boards a few years ago and attempted to withdraw all that were out for part replacement and the ones that were on NEW water heaters and suspect ones were supposed to be sent back. There is no way to determine which are good and which were the bad ones. So, just replacing may mean you got a bad one. 4. Are you POSITIVE you have the Tstat and ECO attached to the tank correctly with the spring keeping pressure and contac to the Metal tank? DougWhy a new regulator and a manometer?

dougrainer wrote:1. HOW do you know it is in lock out mode? Red Light ON?2. IF in lockout, you need to check for continuity at the tstat and the ECO. They should have continuity. If they do NOT, then which has no continuity that is your problem3. Atwood had a bad batch of Circuit boards a few years ago and attempted to withdraw all that were out for part replacement and the ones that were on NEW water heaters and suspect ones were supposed to be sent back. There is no way to determine which are good and which were the bad ones. So, just replacing may mean you got a bad one. 4. Are you POSITIVE you have the Tstat and ECO attached to the tank correctly with the spring keeping pressure and contac to the Metal tank? DougWhy a new regulator and a manometer?Red light is on when it goes into lockout mode.I will cycle the water heater again to get it into lockout mode to check the thermostat and ECO.I replaced the board about 6 weeks ago but will try to check it out. I have the troubleshooting procedure in the RV.When I replaced the Thermostat and ECO, I used some Silver Paste, apparently to maintain a better contact with the tank. I will clean that off and re-install the parts.New regulator because the system is 20 years old and I have had issues in the past with other RVs with oil in the lines. And it’s the last part of the system to be replaced.Manometer to check my gas pressure at the water heater.I can return the regulator if the pressures check out.Thanks for the info. I will give it a try and report back.

Go have a look at the connector that plugs into the circuit board.The connectors should have a bow shape. Use a dental pick and make sure the connectors are bowed and springy.Your connection at the ECO has to be good or the water heater would not have fired when switched on. Power from ECO goes to gas solenoids.I found this issue several years ago and then again last month while snow birding at Quartzsite. I had the very same symptoms as you, red light and lockout.Richard

I tried to turn on the water heater and it went directly to lock out mode.(Red light on).I tested both the Thermostat and ECO while in lock out mode. Both have continuity.Using the Atwood ( Intermittent Ignition Information Guide), I followed all of the procedures listed. Following the Potted Channel Circuit Board test procedure, I tested each track as specified.The Power track and Lamp track both returned a reading of 1478 using a continuity tester.The valve track had no continuity.So, can I assume that the board is bad? or should I be looking elsewhere ?

RLS7201 wrote:Go have a look at the connector that plugs into the circuit board.The connectors should have a bow shape. Use a dental pick and make sure the connectors are bowed and springy.Your connection at the ECO has to be good or the water heater would not have fired when switched on. Power from ECO goes to gas solenoids.I found this issue several years ago and then again last month while snow birding at Quartzsite. I had the very same symptoms as you, red light and lockout.RichardI will go look now.Thanks for the reply.Scott

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fyrflie
Explorer III
Mar 23, 2021
fyrflie wrote:
RLS7201 wrote:
Go have a look at the connector that plugs into the circuit board.
The connectors should have a bow shape. Use a dental pick and make sure the connectors are bowed and springy.

Your connection at the ECO has to be good or the water heater would not have fired when switched on. Power from ECO goes to gas solenoids.

I found this issue several years ago and then again last month while snow birding at Quartzsite. I had the very same symptoms as you, red light and lockout.

Richard

I will go look now.
Thanks for the reply.

Scott

I checked the connector and all is good. I turned the water heater on and it went directly to lock out. Turned it off then back on and the water heater lit off as designed. I will let it cycle and see what happens.
fyrflie
Explorer III
Mar 23, 2021
RLS7201 wrote:
Go have a look at the connector that plugs into the circuit board.
The connectors should have a bow shape. Use a dental pick and make sure the connectors are bowed and springy.

Your connection at the ECO has to be good or the water heater would not have fired when switched on. Power from ECO goes to gas solenoids.

I found this issue several years ago and then again last month while snow birding at Quartzsite. I had the very same symptoms as you, red light and lockout.

Richard

I will go look now.
Thanks for the reply.
Scott
fyrflie
Explorer III
Mar 23, 2021
I tried to turn on the water heater and it went directly to lock out mode.(Red light on).
I tested both the Thermostat and ECO while in lock out mode. Both have continuity.

Using the Atwood ( Intermittent Ignition Information Guide), I followed all of the procedures listed.
Following the Potted Channel Circuit Board test procedure, I tested each track as specified.
The Power track and Lamp track both returned a reading of 1478 using a continuity tester.
The valve track had no continuity.

So, can I assume that the board is bad? or should I be looking elsewhere ?
RLS7201
Explorer II
Mar 23, 2021
Go have a look at the connector that plugs into the circuit board.
The connectors should have a bow shape. Use a dental pick and make sure the connectors are bowed and springy.

Your connection at the ECO has to be good or the water heater would not have fired when switched on. Power from ECO goes to gas solenoids.

I found this issue several years ago and then again last month while snow birding at Quartzsite. I had the very same symptoms as you, red light and lockout.

Richard
fyrflie
Explorer III
Mar 23, 2021
dougrainer wrote:
1. HOW do you know it is in lock out mode? Red Light ON?
2. IF in lockout, you need to check for continuity at the tstat and the ECO. They should have continuity. If they do NOT, then which has no continuity that is your problem
3. Atwood had a bad batch of Circuit boards a few years ago and attempted to withdraw all that were out for part replacement and the ones that were on NEW water heaters and suspect ones were supposed to be sent back. There is no way to determine which are good and which were the bad ones. So, just replacing may mean you got a bad one.
4. Are you POSITIVE you have the Tstat and ECO attached to the tank correctly with the spring keeping pressure and contac to the Metal tank? Doug

Why a new regulator and a manometer?

Red light is on when it goes into lockout mode.
I will cycle the water heater again to get it into lockout mode to check the thermostat and ECO.
I replaced the board about 6 weeks ago but will try to check it out. I have the troubleshooting procedure in the RV.
When I replaced the Thermostat and ECO, I used some Silver Paste, apparently to maintain a better contact with the tank. I will clean that off and re-install the parts.
New regulator because the system is 20 years old and I have had issues in the past with other RVs with oil in the lines. And it’s the last part of the system to be replaced.
Manometer to check my gas pressure at the water heater.
I can return the regulator if the pressures check out.

Thanks for the info. I will give it a try and report back.
dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 23, 2021
1. HOW do you know it is in lock out mode? Red Light ON?
2. IF in lockout, you need to check for continuity at the tstat and the ECO. They should have continuity. If they do NOT, then which has no continuity that is your problem
3. Atwood had a bad batch of Circuit boards a few years ago and attempted to withdraw all that were out for part replacement and the ones that were on NEW water heaters and suspect ones were supposed to be sent back. There is no way to determine which are good and which were the bad ones. So, just replacing may mean you got a bad one.
4. Are you POSITIVE you have the Tstat and ECO attached to the tank correctly with the spring keeping pressure and contac to the Metal tank? Doug

Why a new regulator and a manometer?

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