Old-Biscuit wrote:
Travelin2 wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Travelin2 wrote:
Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.
Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board
Display panel get it from top connector
2 separate connectors......2 separate issues
BOTH lack of DC
I just came back in from the RV and yes it is plugged in to 120AC.
I have good DC voltage at both of those connectors. The wires from those connectors go into the back of the fridge through one grommet.
I removed the wire harness from the display board on the front of the unit and there is no power. I am going to check the parts blowup to see if I can figure out where all the wires go after they enter the back because there is only one six wire connector on the back of the display panel.
Still have no lights inside and no reaction when the power button is pushed with the RV plugged in to 120 AC and battery switch on. Both voltages are good.
You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC
Top 6 pin connector......5 pins used
Wires go to another connector on display panel circuit board
Bottom 6 pin.....wires (2 each +/-) go to each component individually (Divider heater, Door Switch, Interior Light)
Sounds like broken wire harness/wiring going thru that common grommet.
Wires hot at lower circuit board...........not hot at display connector---broken wire harness (IF shorted out..3A fuse would BLOW)
Interior light...have you tested connections?
Is light burnt out?
Hi Old-Biscuit...I had lots of irons in the fire today and didn't get to play with the RV. I did not get to testing the light. I will pop out the bulb and see if the switch is hot. I did remove the connector from the back of the "eyebrow" board in front and not one of the wires showed power. I just can't see all the wires breaking at the same time. Also, something that was a little odd was on each wire at that top connector there was minimal readings like--- .023volts---.113volts and such. None were zero. Let me say though the little multimeter I was using was made in China.
Would you tell me what the "divider heater" is that is powered by the lower connector?
I did test the AC heater yesterday and it shows 48.9 ohms so I guess that should heat if I can get this lost power situation figured out.
I do want to thank you for giving this some thought and some of your time.
I just had a thought. I tested the pins coming out of the power board and they have power but after plugging the connector back on, I never pierced the insulation on the wires near the connector to see if that connector is doing it's job. It may be a mismanufactured connector. Seems like a long shot though.
