Barbecue hookup

I suspect most folks "interchange" BBQ and grill as one in the same device, you get heat and food cooks on it.

You can make a "grill" slow cook for things like pulled pork by turning flame down and not placing food directly over the burner (IE Indirect heat). You can even turn a gas grill into a "smoker" just by adding a smoking box which uses wood chips or a smoking tube which uses smoking pellets.

You can even use a griddle top on a grill or BBQ..

It is a pretty universal device..

Extend a stays were interesting devices and if OP could find one they still will not be able to use the built in propane port and would have to use the BBQ at the trailer tongue..

Personally, they could simply buy a refillable 5 lb cylinder and call it a day also.

What's called a grill in the USA is a BBQ in Canada though I've spent enough time in the USA that I call my BBQ a grill. Straddling the border I guess.

And it’s a Barbie in Australia,.. or maybe only at an Outback!
I have a Marshall changeover reg that has a pipe nipple between the stages and it is 18 psi there. Years ago I added a tee, valve and hose with a cga 600 fitting for my grill and the 18 psi is enough to allow using the rv grill regulator and get to the high-fire orifice pressure.
You can remove the regulator on your grill and connect to the Rv 11” system but then you still need to control the flow/heat . Then you can try a needle valve and it still might not work. The mfgr can build the burner to run on whatever pressure they want. I haven’t had an Rv grill yet that only worked on 11” orifice pressure. 11” to my old Olympia grill would only make it warm. It was built for 15””. My Charbroil IR Rv grill regulator blew the water right out of my 30” U gauge but it was actually way TOO hot. I backed the reg down to 18” and it’s all good now… good heat range.
I’ve read there are Rv grills in captivity that can use whatever control they came with and run on 11” input but I haven’t actually seen one yet. Craig

C Schomer wrote:
pressure.
You can remove the regulator on your grill and connect to the Rv 11” system but then you still need to control the flow/heat . Then you can try a needle valve and it still might not work. Craig

OP indicated they have a grill that uses this..



Which is a "combo" high pressure regulator, burner control and propane orifice..

Unless you have a well equipped machine shop at your disposal and lots of time on your hands attempting to fabricate some sort of work around is a futile effort and not worth it, not to mention dangerous, and perhaps with a bit fool hardy heaped onto the end when the experiment goes boom.

Some things are best left to the pros.

For $130 the OP can buy a portable grill which has built in burner controls which means they only need to replace the hose with regulator with a hose that connects to their RV port.

Camco has a valve replacement that gets rid of the regulator, certainly not universal

https://www.camco.net/lp-gas-accessories-3/low-pressure-valve-kit-3-8-sae-x-12-000-btu-quick-connect-58269

OP indicated they have a grill that uses this..


I know, and that's why I splained the problems for any DIYers. FWIW, the orifice usually comes off and a DIYer can play. I've been gas appliance certified since 78 and I've tried all sorts of things. Sometimes I get my kicks in funny ways!

C Schomer wrote:
OP indicated they have a grill that uses this..


I know, and that's why I splained the problems for any DIYers. FWIW, the orifice usually comes off and a DIYer can play. I've been gas appliance certified since 78 and I've tried all sorts of things. Sometimes I get my kicks in funny ways!

The several I have encountered, the orifice was pressed into the regulator output tube. The regulator output tube was molded into the regulator body. the regulator on one I had was friction fit to the burner and the other the orifice which was pressed into the regulator had threads and threaded into the burner. Absolutely no way shape or form you are going to remove the orifice without some collateral damage happening to that orifice for either I have had.

After having several of those cheap BBQs that ended up with the non replaceable burners rusting out I stepped up to better built BBQs which have better burners and separate controls from the regulator..

Those burner control/regulator deals tend to poorly regulate the flames on the burner, typically resulting in burnt offerings on the outside with totally raw meat on the inside.

Any grill that uses the combo control/regulator is cheaply built junk, scrap it and move on.

The BBQ I listed a while ago for $130 is leaps and bounds a far better design control wise and burner wise. The one I have looks similar to the one I linked. But I bought mine at Sam's club yrs ago for $90. The only complaint I have so far with mine is the grill grates are not 100% stainless, it is some stainless plating on steel and rusts out easily. I found aftermarket porcelain coated cast iron grates that were a bit bigger and I cut them down to fit..