Battery/Converter Question

WindyNation's $22 controller includes an equization phase.

"High-frequency pulses safely remove sulfate from battery's plates that prevent the batteries from holding a full charge"

That was a thing about 15 years ago or so, but more recent research suggests it doesn't really work. That does not change that the maintenance charger does a good job doing the Float anyway.

I would say it might depend on the age of your WFO charger. If it's from the 80's or 90's then possibly there might be a problem plugged in with no battery. If a newer model then it might be fine.

wa8yxm wrote:
The ONLY caution I will give with that converter is this> Insulate the positive battery lead(s) if is just one wire attached to the positive put the cable end in something like an empty pill bottle and tape it to the cable so it does not come off.. If there are more than one tie them together (Bread tie or string) and .. A bigger pill bottle and tape it on. Make very sure it can not touch metal. Alternate is a short length of "Pool noodle" over the wire(s) to insulate them.

I would pay attention to this. At the very least tie all the positive wires together and tie all the negative wires together. Also take a clear picture of the wiring connections at the battery before you disconnect anything. All too often on here we get posts in the spring where somebody hooked their previously disconnected battery up backwards and blew some fuses or worse fried a component.

I've used the BatteryMinder from Northern Tools for years on my batteries over the winter. It pulses the battery to prevent the number one cause of battery death - sulfation.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332201_200332201


Full-time battery monitoring automatically tests battery continually, supplying only the current needed to maintain battery at full charge
8-stage unit charges and maintains from 1 to 4 batteries at a time (12V batteries parallel-connected or two 6V batteries series-connected. NOTE: Never connect 2 or more batteries together in parallel before fully charging each and checking their condition. Failure to fully charge each battery and check their condition can result in a serious safety hazard)
Does not overcharge, regardless of time connected
High-frequency pulses safely remove sulfate from battery's plates that prevent the batteries from holding a full charge
No need to add water to maintenance-type batteries during long, non-use storage

Have you considered a 30 watt solar panel and $22 WindyNation weatherproof controller? Do it right, do it easy.

The WFCO is fine without a load. If the WFCO does fail please replace with a different brand.

Actually the WFCO should drop voltage to 13.2 same as a trickle charger after a few days of non-use. Verify with your voltmeter and save yourself the hassle.

The ONLY caution I will give with that converter is this> Insulate the positive battery lead(s) if is just one wire attached to the positive put the cable end in somewthing like an empty pill bottle and tape it to the cable so it does not come off.. If there are more than one tie them together (Bread tie or string) and .. A bigger pill bottle and tape it on. Make very sure it can not touch metal. Alternate is a short length of "Pool noodle" over the wire(s) to insulate them.

NOTE2 The converter should maintain the battery same as the "Trickle Charger" so I would not (did not) remove them.

Final note: Trickle chargers are generally bad Battery Tenders or Battery minders (Two competing products) which are computer controlled slow chargers (1-2 amps) are good. Some folks call them "Trickle Chargers" but they are way better.

When I "Stored for winter) I kept it plugged in Did not worry about the batteries as the Progressive Dynamics wizard took care of 'em.. I did use the rig most every day for an hour or two (one small room where I stuck my ham gear) but I could have done that w/o batteries...save for the day the power company failed to deliver.

My Progressive Dynamics converter has a built in battery cycler that goes through a slight discharge and charge program to stop sulfication of the battery. Any high end converter eliminates the need to remove the battery and trickle charge.

No. Just remember to put the battery back in the TT when driving so the emergency breakaway system will work.

Your converter is already a "trickle charger" for when the battery is charged up, so unless the battery might be stolen, you can leave it.

I, and I'm sure others, are dying to know why you want to leave it plugged in.