As many of you know I have been asking many questions and greatly appreciate all of your inputs. It seems the more I read the more questions I have. I have ordered a Mega Watt PS to Top Charge and EQ my batteries based on much feedback. I will likely be getting a PD9260 to replace my WFCO which has given up the ghost. And I will be installing four 6V GC batteries. Now for questions.1. Should I set up two 6V series banks or one series/parallel bank?2. I would like to put the new converter close to the batteries. Will I need to run connections back to the DC distribution panel or can I use the wires already there from the WFCO panel to the batteries?I would like to hook up an inverter to run TV/sat.. Are there any online diagrams that I could study?

1. Should I set up two 6V series banks or one series/parallel bank?There is only one way to hook up 4 - 6v batterys...

Here is a couple of block diagrams I did up for someone not too long ago asking similar questions.I like using BLUE SEA MARINE QUALITY components and ANCOR Marine Cable and ring terminals...enjoy...Roy Ken

Sorry larosa, I believe I could have worded it differently. I am aware of the battery hook up scheme. What I meant was two 6v in series = 12v. Setting up two of these as independent banks. I had read that setting up four series/parallel may have issues other than taking longer to charge. What would be the pros and cons of each setup?

Ditto on the marine components. I use them on all my vehicular projects. Do it once, do it right. I really hate warranty repairs, especially on my own work.

Keep all four batteries right together and wired up with no switches for best performance.If converter is placed close to the battery the existing main feed to the existing 12v panel is fine. You can even connect a 300w inverter using the existing feed. Small transfer switch and the tv/dvd/satellite circuit is on with the touch of the remote button. No pulling wire, just make connections.I would be looking more at 9280 or 90 amp IOTA vs the 9260. Although this might be a bit much if just using a Honda 2000. 40a max for Honda 1000.

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54 Replies

mena661
Explorer
Sep 17, 2014
sjturbo wrote:
Interestingly enough Victron recommends the shunt on the negative and the disconnect on the positive.
My shunt is on the negative per their instructions.
sjturbo
Explorer
Sep 17, 2014
Interestingly enough Victron recommends the shunt on the negative and the disconnect on the positive.
mena661
Explorer
Sep 16, 2014
I can remove the power to my Victron and the settings will still be there on power up.
time2roll
Nomad
Sep 16, 2014
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Is there any reason the interrupting power switch should not be placed between the shunt and battery negative? Is the monitor memory volatile?

Battery negative ----> Switch ----> Shunt; was my suggestion. Although my preference is an insulated switch on the positive.

Non-volatile memory should allow the monitor to wake up and operate with minimal adjustments.
sjturbo
Explorer
Sep 16, 2014
I was wrong. I checked the manual and it is non-volatile.
sjturbo
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
I also think the memory is volatile.
sjturbo
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
I actually have the 700 model. Same except with additional features. The "shunt" is between the battery and the disconnect.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
smkettner wrote:
If the shunt is first the monitor remains powered up afaik. So battery is not fully off.

I tend to put the cut-off switch (fully insulated) on the positive as that is the convention of the system. All other switches and fuses are on the positive side. Non-insulated knife switch etc. I would put on the negative as it leaves a lot of metal exposed for a short. Electrically it is the same effect.

Is there any reason the interrupting power switch should not be placed between the shunt and battery negative? Is the monitor memory volatile?
ken_white
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
smkettner wrote:
See page 1 of the Victron 600 manual

The monitor is still powered up if the switch is after the shunt.

Yep, the Victron does not really use a shunt but rather a shunt and signal conditioner all in one and it connects directly to the battery in that configuration.

A real shunt is nothing more than a very low ohm resistor (a passive device) that supplies a voltage proportional to current back to a display or control board.

If he has that Victron, then he would need to put the shunt on the other side of the disconnect to turn off the active devices.

I guess it depends on what he is using.
ken_white
Explorer
Sep 15, 2014
smkettner wrote:
Where does the monitor get power? I assume from the positive and from the shunt connection. Otherwise yes off is off regardless of the terminal.

Yes if removing a cable it is always SOP to remove the negative cable first and reconnect last.

The monitor would not get power through the shunt, it would need a solid ground (0V reference) connection, not one that varied with battery charging/load.

The shunt typically feeds a very high input impedance circuit in the monitor so minimal loading will occur.

EDIT: See my below comments for an active shunt versus a passive shunt.

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