Bent slide not sealing tight. Is this a problem? Pics

Thanks again yall for the great advice!

What ??? Did chris need reinforcement from you ?
I know who both you guys are, and neither of you are "know it alls", even tho you pretend to be at times.
If someone has a easier, faster, and less expensive way to fix something, I've learned to listen !

dougrainer wrote:

RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
The correct way would be remove the piece, straighten and replace, resealing the whole thing. Otherwise you are just putting band aids on it, hoping it will be OK
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Not hard to tell that this comment come from one that knows nothing about metal fabrication and repair.
There is no shop (RV or otherwise) that will take that apart to fix it !

I suggest you research WHO Chris Bryant is. I am NOT a metal fabricator, but to CORRECTLY straighten that slide flange, you do exactly what Chris suggests. THAT is what I have done when a customer wants it repaired back to factory original. BUT, as I stated, you can seal that gap caused by the bend without doing the complete repair as Chris suggested. I would inject Dap into that void, and take a mallet and beat the void inward with the DAP oozing out. Doug

Yes, anything to place strong tension opposite the way it got bent.

That buckle in the angle support, it the whole secret in that damage, so it must be removed. Even tho it will ruin a little paint, I would rather smack it directly w/ a (not real big) steel hammer, and directly on.....and only on the high point of that buckle. Keep feeling it for straightness..... and along w/ keeping good tension on it, it may take a couple more smacks to perfect it.

I wish I could be there to help.

That's a kind offer! I live on the other side of the country at the moment but thank you.

So can I use a ratchet strap to put tension on it and then whack it? Should i use a dead blow or a rubber mallet?

RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
The correct way would be remove the piece, straighten and replace, resealing the whole thing. Otherwise you are just putting band aids on it, hoping it will be OK
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Not hard to tell that this comment come from one that knows nothing about metal fabrication and repair.
There is no shop (RV or otherwise) that will take that apart to fix it !

You are correct- any place will just leave it, so that in a couple of years, they cab rebuild the who;e thing after it rots out. After all- RV places are just crooks. Sheesh.

I've done plenty of repairs like that- very hard to tell the extent of the damage from a couple of pictures, but most repairs like that I replace the extrusion- cheaper than trying to straighten. Trust me, the insurance adjusters wouldn't be paying to replace that if they thought it didn't need it.

In the mean time- get a clue.

RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
The correct way would be remove the piece, straighten and replace, resealing the whole thing. Otherwise you are just putting band aids on it, hoping it will be OK
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Not hard to tell that this comment come from one that knows nothing about metal fabrication and repair.
There is no shop (RV or otherwise) that will take that apart to fix it !

I suggest you research WHO Chris Bryant is. I am NOT a metal fabricator, but to CORRECTLY straighten that slide flange, you do exactly what Chris suggests. THAT is what I have done when a customer wants it repaired back to factory original. BUT, as I stated, you can seal that gap caused by the bend without doing the complete repair as Chris suggested. I would inject Dap into that void, and take a mallet and beat the void inward with the DAP oozing out. Doug

Quote:
The correct way would be remove the piece, straighten and replace, resealing the whole thing. Otherwise you are just putting band aids on it, hoping it will be OK
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Not hard to tell that this comment come from one that knows nothing about metal fabrication and repair.
There is no shop (RV or otherwise) that will take that apart to fix it !

The 3ed pic down shows the damage the previous owner caused by trying to make the lower bottom of the slide flange "D" seal make better contac. The area of Slide flanges BELOW the actual main floor line is NOT critical to get the "D" seal to touch or compress. That area on the side lower metal roll wrap is NOT an area that needs to be weathertight. In your 3rd pic, that gap where the metal bends out, will allow water to flow inside and run the slide wood floor. Clean and just seal the gaps with DAP ADHESIVE /SEALANT from Lowes or Home Depot. Doug

I would fix it- the number of rotted slideouts and floor because of leaks that were not seen is huge- by the time you notice the leak, the wood is rotten.
The correct way would be remove the piece, straighten and replace, resealing the whole thing. Otherwise you are just putting band aids on it, hoping it will be OK.

That black stuff on the rubber seal would indicate that water is getting by that area.
I would straighten out the metal and wall section so the slide has a chance to completely seal. A good metal worker would have that fixed fairly quick.