Blue Sky 3024il
I added 520 watts of solar and a Bogart 30 amp system to my rig. It works well but a new problem has happened. It's now common for people to ask how we can have all these lights going and a big tv and...
Forum Discussion
Update:
He is seeing quicker charge times but even with good sun he didn't go into float yesterday. He had very low power use yesterday, maybe 1.5 amps most hours. We are going to watch it again today. His agm's are over 4 years old and I doubt if were usually getting 14.4 at the battery.
Solar installer didn't install controller case ground.
Inverter installer bonded sub panel with all the copper and neutrals on neutral strip, separated those.
We dont know exactly what we stumbled onto in his main panel but the tester that we plug into his wall receptacle now reads "correct".
I also showed him how to make a "bonding" plug for his Honda so that he can check shore power, Honda or inverter and always see "correct" on his wall plug tester.
I went over the importance of a good shore connection and he is now interested in a PD ems unit, onboard.
My advice is to remove the 3 circuits from the wfco panel and make the connections outside the breaker box. There is plenty of room and access behind it to add a plastic junction box. The wfco has no room to cram 3 extra romex and nuts in there. It was a mess.
He hasn't noticed the slight static type shocks but it's only been a couple days.
His rig has had an axle flip etc so all of the metal contact points have wood blocks under them. The stabilizers, tongue jack all have wood blocks. I told him to update at least the tongue jack so it contacts the ground and he also wont have to use blocks for hitching up. No frame to ground contact.
Blue Sky has a bulletin pertaining to static causing their monitor to go black screen and an update for it.
There are 3 criteria for the update. 1. Serial number which he is ok but very close to. 2. Clearance from face plate to circuit board which is ok. 3. Small black box next to terminal strip for shunt wires, his has it and it shouldn't so he's going to contact BS.
He's thinking about adding one more panel so he can maximize his output but his 190 panel is .9 volts different than his ul solar panel. I have read that you want to stay within a .5 volt when mixing panels.
He realizes now that the system should have started with matched panels but too late now. Any ideas are appreciated. I guess he can throw 70 to 95 watts more on it and live with it or re panel. The solar dealer suggested 95 watts as he had a 95 for $300.00 :)
Right now he's letting the dust settle and see how the living conditions are. He's now happily inverting with his favorite coffee maker and not getting zapped.
He is seeing quicker charge times but even with good sun he didn't go into float yesterday. He had very low power use yesterday, maybe 1.5 amps most hours. We are going to watch it again today. His agm's are over 4 years old and I doubt if were usually getting 14.4 at the battery.
Solar installer didn't install controller case ground.
Inverter installer bonded sub panel with all the copper and neutrals on neutral strip, separated those.
We dont know exactly what we stumbled onto in his main panel but the tester that we plug into his wall receptacle now reads "correct".
I also showed him how to make a "bonding" plug for his Honda so that he can check shore power, Honda or inverter and always see "correct" on his wall plug tester.
I went over the importance of a good shore connection and he is now interested in a PD ems unit, onboard.
My advice is to remove the 3 circuits from the wfco panel and make the connections outside the breaker box. There is plenty of room and access behind it to add a plastic junction box. The wfco has no room to cram 3 extra romex and nuts in there. It was a mess.
He hasn't noticed the slight static type shocks but it's only been a couple days.
His rig has had an axle flip etc so all of the metal contact points have wood blocks under them. The stabilizers, tongue jack all have wood blocks. I told him to update at least the tongue jack so it contacts the ground and he also wont have to use blocks for hitching up. No frame to ground contact.
Blue Sky has a bulletin pertaining to static causing their monitor to go black screen and an update for it.
There are 3 criteria for the update. 1. Serial number which he is ok but very close to. 2. Clearance from face plate to circuit board which is ok. 3. Small black box next to terminal strip for shunt wires, his has it and it shouldn't so he's going to contact BS.
He's thinking about adding one more panel so he can maximize his output but his 190 panel is .9 volts different than his ul solar panel. I have read that you want to stay within a .5 volt when mixing panels.
He realizes now that the system should have started with matched panels but too late now. Any ideas are appreciated. I guess he can throw 70 to 95 watts more on it and live with it or re panel. The solar dealer suggested 95 watts as he had a 95 for $300.00 :)
Right now he's letting the dust settle and see how the living conditions are. He's now happily inverting with his favorite coffee maker and not getting zapped.
