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19 Replies
- campiglooExplorerThanks to all of you who tried to help with my problem; even those with a bad attitude. Turns out, after I thought about it and found the problem was in the receptacle circuit, I decided to look at what moves. The problem was in the block connector that went from the hard wire to the flex wire for the receptacle in the slide. Cut it out, added a couple of wire nuts and presto!, juice again! Thanks!!!
- Bob_LandryExplorerThis isn't rocket science. Disconnect the battery to eliminate that. Turn off everything 12V. Unplug everything that is plugged into ANY outlet and see if the problem goes away. It's common practice for manufacturers to add outlets onto the converter(and other) circuit breakers because the NEC only allows 5 circuits per 30A leg. My Keystone has outlets running off both the converter and microwave breakers. BTW, this is a good argument for adding an additional 30A service even if you don't have second AC unit.
Large current draw appliances such as water heater, microwave, should be on their own breaker, but don't count on anything without verifying what is what. RV builders are notoriously inconsistent. If you still have the problem with everything turned off and disconnected, you have a bad converter. - campiglooExplorerNo LittleBill, I am not that much of a dunce. Had company over last night and have not had a whole lot of time to fool with it. It does sound like it is worth the minimum of hassle involved and will try it when I have more time to deal with it.
- LittleBillExplorer
enblethen wrote:
If the OP would disconnect the 120 volt side of the converter at the converter, he would know whether it is in the converter or the wiring in the rig.
that will probably takes 15 more posts telling him to do that before he thinks its a good idea - If the OP would disconnect the 120 volt side of the converter at the converter, he would know whether it is in the converter or the wiring in the rig.
- jconnallyExplorerPerhaps a bad converter and thus not charging the battery causing a dead battery?
Disconnecting the battery and still having the problem eliminates the battery charging from overloading the converter. Really sounds like a bad converter now. Since you have a dead battery and the converter will not run due to tripping the breaker, put a charger on the battery and see if the voltage will come up. Leave the charger attached and it should provide 12V until you replace the converter. - wa8yxmExplorer III
campigloo wrote:
Would a bad battery cause the breaker to the converter to trip?
Possibly, depends on how the battery failed and on the converter and the wires between them and the size of the breaker..... IN short, a whole bunch of things.
My converter is a PDI Intella-Power 9180, this can easily suck over 10 amps before the fuses blow if it is feeding a low resistance load (Shorted battery). (The fuses are on the converter).
If you had a larger converter and a 15 amp breaker, and shorted batteries, it's possible..
That said. It is NOT likely.
Since you did the battery disconnect thing (A very good diagnostic thing) and it still tripped the breaker.. Time for an upgrade
May I recommend the PDI 9200 series from Best Converter s
WFFCO is made in China and has a very Made in China Rep (Not very good). - Did you disconnect the converter?
- campiglooExplorerI did disconnect the battery and it tripped as usual.
The converter is a model WF-8955PEC from World Friendship Co. (?????)
I have used two different power sources.
I turned all breakers off, except the one for the converter, reset the main first and the converter tripped instantly. - Francesca_KnowlExplorerHas this happened before or is this something new at a new location/pedestal?
Also:
Have you tried turning all breakers off, plugging in, and turning them on one by one? Just wondering if there isn't some sort of "surge effect" goin' on when you plug in the fully loaded system...
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