Naio wrote:
Wow! never heard of that. It sounds like it would be a lot easier on the old cars that are made of thicker steel :-)
Autobody lead solder is 30% tin/70% lead, has working temp from 361 F- 489 F so you can work with rather thin body steel. Actually ideal for working with tin that has considerable thinning due to rust.
Low working temp means much less chance of warping the panel.
Just have to make darn sure ALL the rust has been removed before attempting to tin the material.
Once Tinned, moisture can no longer get to the steel below and the tin layer acts a bit like rust proofing.
One of my biggest gripes with plastic fillers is they often absorb and trap moisture, this leads to the filler cracking, popping and or the steel under the filler rusting out..
Watched my Dad Autobody solder once many years ago and amazed just how well it can work.. Of course, he was an amazing at autobody work, enjoyed watching him weld body panels with Oxy/Ace torch and a coat hanger and never warp the panel..
My point is soldering is not hard, nor a mystery, anyone can learn to do it, just takes some basic understanding and knowledge..
