Forum Discussion
23 Replies
- pianotunaNomad IIIBFL13,
Put a rack on the FRONT of the rv for the Honda? (do not obstruct the radiator DAMHIW) - BFL13Explorer IIFollow-up. As seen in my thread on this gen, it won't do it even with better 120v wiring. So that's that.
I see that locally I could get two of these P2200s on sale and get the parallel kit, which will supply 3000VA, for the same price as the Honda 2200 with its 1800VA.
That 1800 might be enough for my 75 amper, I'll never know unless somebody posts that test result, but 3000VA is like my Honda 3000 which is 2800VA that ran my chargers combined to give me 156 amps to the battery bank when low enough to accept that many.
So, that is interesting! For half the price you could get two of these little gens and parallel them and do the same as with a Honda 3000 you can't lift by yourself, and you can carry each of the two little ones with one hand.
Not the usual price comparison between two Honda 2000s and one 3000!!! - BFL13Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
BFL13,
Put a rack on the hitch for the Honda.
Can't. Already overweight at the back. The little P2200 full of gas can be carried with one hand. I do like that.
On my Kill-A-Watt results, I think that big voltage drop to 115 that went with the amps being up to 15 is an example of it trying to maintain the watts by raising the amps, same as a power inverter does with its DC input?
The poor Kill-A-Watt is playing with fire going over its 15a rating too. I was lucky there. - pianotunaNomad IIIBFL13,
Put a rack on the hitch for the Honda. - BFL13Explorer IIGoing from the 5er where the Honda 3000 rode in the truck, to a Class C with no gen, the 3000 is too big for any compartment, but the smaller 2200/2000 size will fit, so that's the motive.
The Honda 3000 rated for 2800VA will do a bit more than that with no issues. So at least it can do better than its max rating.
I need to do a retest of the P2200 with a better wiring set before I can say for sure this gen can't run my 75 amper. Everybody wait on that, before saying it won't--although it might not--don't know. - LittleBillExploreryour comparing this to a honda 3k? the honda is only running at less then 70%, so it has a buffer, your running this other unit right on the ragged edge.
when does anything run perfect right at the maximum its rated for?
not to mention running right at max, i'd be interested if there is even any fuel savings compared to the 3k, not to mention the noise, inverters getting an annoying hum maxed out.
good luck with your phone call, your Kill a watt pretty much proves its **** close to spec'd rating.
not sure on the KW reading either 1300 watts? i guess thats the PF corrected value 15 amps at 115 is over 1700 watts. - BFL13Explorer IIWhat would be useful, is similar data from the OP's 2200 or a Honda 2200 to see if it could run a 75 amper. There are a lot of new 2200s out there that replace older 2000s of whatever brands.
I will check mine with similar 120v wiring that I used with the Honda 3000 to make sure there is no error in my initial report from that. - pianotunaNomad IIIBFL13,
It is doing the best it can. You don't have a wiring issue imo. - BFL13Explorer III expected it to run my 75 amper, based on the Kill-A-Watt with the 75 amper and my Honda 3000.
( I might have a 120V wiring issue that has made things look worse for the gen--I need to redo my test with a better set-up. Will report.)
Honda no load 126.8v
DC out: 75.0 amps, charger set at 14.8, batts at 14.08 rising:
123.8v, 13.64a, 1241w, 1693VA, PF 0.73
So I thought that would fly with a 1700VA running spec on the P2200.
Nope. No load was 124.9v, but at 74 amps (it didn't get the charger to 75) Kill-A-Watt said:
115.7v, 15.13a, 1301w, 1752VA, PF 0.74, and gen red overload light was flashing. Then it popped the breaker.
I adjusted the voltage on the 75 amper trying to find a sweet spot and I was able to get it to keep going at 68 amps DC output at a lower DC voltage. To get the red light to stop flashing I had to fiddle things to get the AC amps down to 14, hair trigger on that for anything over 14.
I don't know how long it will run with the red light flashing (and the Kill-A-Watt volts blinking at the same time)
IMO this should be able to run my 75 amper, but it can't seem to. Note the big voltage drop from 124.9 to 115.9, where the Honda 3000 dropped from 126.8 to 123.8 doing the same 75 amper. This may be due to a 120v wiring "issue" difference, so I will redo the test with a better 120v wiring set-up and see if that helps.
More to learn here I think. - LittleBillExplorer
BFL13 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi BFL13,
It doesn't have the eco switch--but it defaults to running in eco mode, from what I'm reading at Canuck Tire. "features a computer-controlled inverter that adjusts engine speed to reduce noise and fuel consumption"
The manual says it has their QPT button, which is like Eco, but the actual gen in the box does not have it.
I am calling them (Can Tire and B&S tomorrow or next day to find out what is going on. It won't run my 75 amper except at reduced voltage and 68 amps out. It shows overload flashing red at 14ish amps on the Kill-A Watt--gen is rated for 14.1a and 1700w. Seems that is what it will do 1700VA. No way in heck is this any sort of "2200", but it can run a 60 amper ok, and is otherwise a nice little unit to deal with.
I think they have branded an older model, "P2200", but we'll see what they have to say for themselves.
not sure what your going to call for, its doing its rated output 1700w, 2200w is a surge rating, you listed this above, why would you expect it do more then the 1700w rating?
even the honda 2200i running wattage is 1800
EU2200i
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