Changing jumper between 2x6 volt

Byrogie wrote:
Thank You westend

You're welcome.

My Morningstar controller doesn't state the admonition of removing panel power first but there have been a few threads on the Forum of owners burning up a solar controller by disconnecting the batteries, first.

Good luck with your cable maintenance.

Thank You westend

Order of disconnection: Power from solar panels to controller (if you have MC4 wire, you can unplug), negative phase connection from batteries to frame ground. Disconnecting batteries first may injure the solar controller.

FWIW, I installed a Hi-watt manual breaker between the solar panel and the controller. It makes it awful easy to disconnect power from the panels to the controller, when servicing the 12V system.

If I wanted to change that cable, I would shut off anything that mite be causing current to flow thru it, (common sense?) and just change it.
There is no harm to be done by a disconnect in the 12v DC system, other than loosing some programing memory etc. Otherwise, do like the big boys do, connect a 12v power supply across the main leads while you change it.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Many years ago I did some studies on GC220 batteries and cable connections. Using the stud and wing nuts to connect cables is a loser.

Regular post clamps with the positive post being larger can pass almost twice the amperage. Not a factor if using smaller than 8 gauge wire but after that (increasing wire sizes) voltage drop comes into play.

An expensive system with Mattel grade connectors ain't where it's at.

Don't have posts, stud and a flat spot.
Trojan T-105

Byrogie wrote:
I want to change my 4 gauge jumper to a 1 gauge.
Do I have to disconnect everything?
Inverter, solar are direct to batteries.
Disconnect switch for trailer loads.

thx

Twp answers.

1: For safety it is recommended you disconnect the NEGATIVE lead off the most negative battery. I'd also disconnect the solar or pull the fuse

2: No, but if the wrench shorts to the RV frame it will be impressive (And dangerous) see 1:

If it doesn't have one, I would install a battery cut-off and use that.

Many years ago I did some studies on GC220 batteries and cable connections. Using the stud and wing nuts to connect cables is a loser.

Regular post clamps with the positive post being larger can pass almost twice the amperage. Not a factor if using smaller than 8 gauge wire but after that (increasing wire sizes) voltage drop comes into play.

An expensive system with Mattel grade connectors ain't where it's at.

thx
I was going to hook up the solar to the inverter leads at some point anyway, so I will make that change at the same time.
Will also put a fuse/switch on the panel wire.

Depending on how long that takes, you may get a big spark due to the inverter's capacitors fueling up. I'm not sure you can turn that off.