Changing tire on the road?

Empty Nest, Soon wrote:
I changed the tire on our TT using a 4-way lug wrench (I've always carried one) and the jack from the 1998 GMC 2500 that I had at the time.

I see no good reason why an OEM lug wrench from the tow vehicle would not work, if a little less conveniently than the 4-way wrench.

Wayne

One good reason the lug nut of TV and trailer not being the same size.

I changed the tire on our TT using a 4-way lug wrench (I've always carried one) and the jack from the 1998 GMC 2500 that I had at the time.

I see no good reason why an OEM lug wrench from the tow vehicle would not work, if a little less conveniently than the 4-way wrench.

Wayne

j-d wrote:
A METAL plate is a good idea. Using "two-by's" can leave the jack too high if the tire is flat.

Harbor Fright's 12-ton jacks are on sale at $30, standard height or shorty. HF keeps changing their jack offerings. I went to buy a 12-ton and ended up with their 10-ton, which they no longer offer. Reviews indicate sometimes the current HF jacks won't fully retract. My 10-ton retracts OK and lifts one end of the rear axle satisfactorily. Even less capacity WILL lift it, but the handle effort's excessive given the awkward placement it takes to get under the axles.

I agree the higher capacity the jack is the less effort needed to operate it given the position one is in to said jack, so a 12 ton would be easier than a 6 ton and a 20 to a 12 or smaller.

Quicksilver has a 20-ton air over hydraulic jack and a 1" air impact gun that I can no longer manage. But the Mexican Green Angels grin when they learn I have those items plus a hydraulic (hand pump) for lowering and raising the spare under the bus. Somewhere I have a 15" square 1" thick piece of aluminum plate with berms for the jack and rail handles. All 3 axles have half inch angle 4330 chrome moly brackets welded on to fit the jack. But the owner has aged and deteriorated to the point where I cannot pick up the air gun or jack - a fine state of affairs :(

westend wrote:
Dismount spare if it is mounted on a carrier, break lug nuts loose on flat tire, position 3 ton or better hydraulic jack under spring shackle and elevate flat tire, remove lugs and mount spare tire onto hub, tighten lug nuts as much as possible, lower spare tire to surface, remove jack, tighten lug nuts to appropriate torque.

If you have steel rims, the wheel can be very effectively tightened with a tire iron. If you have aluminum rims, it's best to use a torque wrench.

This is what I do.

Just a reminder, no matter how tempted you might be, DON'T put the jack under the axle - they are very easy to bend.

acritzer wrote:
What's the easiest way to change a tire on the side of the road?
What's the least expensive way to change a tire?

In other words. What kind of jack is recommended? And can it be done manually with a tire iron?
FWIW my trailer is approx. 6,500 lbs.

Interesting - none of the replies address your question,

"And can it be done manually with a tire iron?"

(The tire iron)
Do you really mean change a *tire* rather than replace a flat with the *spare* tire and wheel?..:h

Assuming the later (replace with the spare), and considering your "novice" status.......

The "dry run" is an excellent plan - but remember you won't actually have a flat - your axle with the "imitation" flat, will remain at normal height.

Check the (your) axle manufacturers recommendations for jacking.
Most will indicate you should jack under the frame of the trailer, *not* under the axle.

That doesn't mean "under the axle" can't (or shouldn't) be done, but
it's easy to bend an axle if you don't position the jack properly - under the spring shackle - and/or you may not have room for that when a tire is flat. (Drive up on some short wood "cribbing" or one of the devices to raise the wheel with the flat.)

A good breaker bar - and "cheater" (the pipe extension mentioned) should be part of your tool kit, as well as the appropriate size socket for the lugs.

A HF jack (or two) is/are inexpensive item/s.
(a few foot long 2 x 4s are always handy for jacking & other stuff)
If you don't have a half-inch torque wrench, an inexpensive HF version will do - although a quality item would be better.
(The tq wrench should only be used for it's intended purpose, *not* for removing the lugs. Remember to re-check the tq after 100 miles or so)

You or them? - An ERS alternative. - The "easiest way"..:W
One call (usually) does it all *for* you - maybe you wait, maybe not.

Since you (apparently) are on a budget, you may *not* want to spend the $ for an ERS.
However, an inexpensive option to/for the various plans such as GS, CN, or my choice - US Rider.....

You can have an "adequate" ERS via the AMA (American Motorcyclist Association) that will provide roadside assistance (and 35 mile towing) for $49. annually if you have the membership fee auto deducted from a CC.
*NO* MCs req'd, and they will tow anything you are driving or towing.

BTW - you can probably skip the tire iron!..:W

~

Don't ever ride on a Mexican "Chicken" Bus! Many times they arrive many hours late, with four tires on the ground instead of six, with three blown tires lashed to the roof rack, then eighty passengers exit the 66 passenger bus, and the live hog and crates of squawking chickens are lowered from the roof rack. The Chofer has a pair of 15-year old boys as ayudantes (helpers) or his girlfriend riding in his lap at least as far as the town limits. It's OK, the legion of swaying Christmas tree decorations, crucifixes, and cut out and pasted to the dashboard reclining nudes will take your mind off of the problems.

Actually the good tire take very little weight from the flat tire because of the equalizer bar. I've ran flats on my GN trailers at nite (unseen) till the wheel bead seat was worn completely off and leaving two groves in the asphalt road surface.

Now what usually happens is the non flat tire can cut the good tires tread/sidewall from the flat tires steel belts slinging around as the tire shreds itself going down the road.

Excellent point! Good reason to carry TWO spares!

I will be taking my first trip next month with our new Venture Sonic with dual axles. Plan to take a bottle jack, small air compressor, torque wrench with sockets for both spare and trailer rims (different size nuts) and my lucky rock so I WON'T have a flat!

A number of good answers. Just remember if you have a "flat" on a dual or tandem axle trailer application you probably ran the companion tire at almost 100% overload for ??? miles. So unless you stopped because your TPMS warned you you MUST get the companion tire completely (air chamber and outside) inspected by a store that is qualified to do warranty return work on that brand tire as there may be damage that will show up days or even weeks later.