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rob_g's avatar
rob_g
Explorer
Apr 26, 2015

Charging lithium batteries with solar

I've got lithium camera batteries and a lithium jump starter battery pack. All charge via 12v auto circuits, i.e. they have their own chargers, they aren't bare batteries. They all work up to at least 13.8v, which is what is going into my house or vehicle batteries via the alternator.

My question is how to charge them with a 27W, 18v max solar panel. It puts out 18v at best. If I attach a Morningstar Sunguard solar controller, it can't sense anything at the end, hence it doesn't go on. I have tricked it by attaching a 12.7v battery and then disconnecting it, but that's obviously not a good solution. Once on, it runs at 13.8.

I also have a DC power converter; it will take the voltage and output 12.25 to 12.5v. This works too, but I'm wondering if it would be better to get something that could output a bit higher voltage, like 13.8. I've noticed when using house power to charge these batteries all of them cut out at some point, so I assume the overcharge protection is working on all of them. I can get bare buck converters on eBay for about $10 complete with LEDs for voltage.

Does this make sense? Will I blow up?

Rob
  • I assume the Sunguard measures zero with nothing attached, or with a battery charger attached, because there is zero voltage at the "battery" side. It gets voltage/current from the panels just fine. I can't use the house battery (long story; I have an existing solar setup for that and it works fine, with a MPPT controller, etc. This is a different application.) Using an inverter is very inefficient, and would present the same and/or other issues regarding connection to the controller directly without a battery.

    The buck converter is what I suspect is best; not sure if a boost would help, since I'm already down around an amp and if the panel falls too low there's just not enough oomph there to make it worthwhile.

    I understand that a constant current is great for charging. But that just doesn't happen with solar and house batteries, or vehicle batteries, or any other batteries connected to solar. The whole point is that these ARE the batteries so carrying batteries to charge these batteries gets rather inefficient. At least the lithiums get a better charge faster than the SLAs.
  • I wouldn't try to charge those little batteries directly from the solar panel/controller. If the sun goes behind the clouds or a shadow falls on the panel, your charging is interrupted. Those chargers should have a constant current so they can properly slow and then stop the charging process for the small batteries. Imagine if you were to plug a camera battery charger with battery into a wall outlet, then pull it out of the wall and plug it back in at numerous random times during the charging cycle.

    Attaching the solar setup to the RV's battery and drawing 12V off that battery would be much better.

    As for why the controller is not sensing the panel's output, not sure... maybe insufficient current for the controller's specs? Or a bad controller? Or it isn't sensing a complete circuit on the output side?
  • i think your over complicating things

    attach the solar to the RV battery, house or chassis
    and use the 12v chargers you already have
  • rob_g wrote:
    it can't sense anything at the end, hence it doesn't go on.


    Why can't your PWM controller sense anyting?


    If the battery voltage is low
    (under 12.5V - this test will not work if the SunGuard is regulating
    in PWM), then measure the solar voltage and battery
    voltage close to the SunGuard. If the voltages are within a few
    tenths of volts, the array is charging the battery. If the solar
    voltage is close to 20 volts and the battery voltage is low, the
    controller is not charging the battery and may be damaged.

    I get it there is something between the batter and the controller:S
  • PWM solar controller with DIVERSION type control. Dump the load into a 50-watt incandescent 12-volt lamp from NAPA.
  • Maybe it would be better to use the RV's battery and charge the battery with the small solar module?

    An alternative would be to use a buck-boost converter and connect that directly to the solar module and the output to the chargers. This assumes that the lithium chargers will work at the low current delivered by the 27W module.

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