I've been reading some seemingly conflicting information about how you should use a small generator to charge a camper's batteries... just hoping to clarify.PD9140 Converter (40amps@13.6 from 600W 120v A/C - (5 amps))w/Charge Wizard (14.4v@30+amps to 90%, then 13.6v.... then 13.2v).Honda EU1000i (Rated 7.5amps@120v. Not sure about DC rating)So as I see it, the Honda will provide as much juice as the converter would be able to pull off of shore power anyway. So is it as simple as just plugging my converter/RV into the Honda for the few hours it should take to get to 90%. Then just turn it off when the charge wizard indicates it's in the slower charge mode - as it's probably diminishing returns w/r to generator run time (many hours for the last 10% if I understand right).Or is there a better way to do it with DC?

chilly81 wrote: is it as simple as just plugging my converter/RV into the Honda for the few hours it should take to get to 90%.Or is there a better way to do it with DC?Yes. No.

That's what I do with the same set up.

That is what I do every morning at 8AM using my 2KW Honda Eu2000i when allowed to run my generator when camping off the power grid.This powers up my POPUP trailer using a RV30A-15A Adapter and plugging in the trailer shore power cable directly to the generator receptacle.Of course I could just plug my PD9260C directly into the generator receptacle but its nice sometimes to have all my other receptacles in the POPUP powered powered up while I am charging my batteries and maybe can run a few other 120VAC things while we are making breakfast. This is when I make my grind and brew coffee for the day also..If your battery has been discharged to its 50% charge state then it will take right at three hours of running your generator to get your battery back up to its 90% charge state. This is assuming your are using your smart mode converter/charger unit.This is only reason I run my generator - to charge up my battery bank...Roy Ken

Hi,Since you have the wizard, you can "force" another 14.4 volt charge session after 4 hours. I believe the wizard is more of a "timer" not a "sensor". I.E. it does not drop to 13.6 when the batteries reach a certain state of charge.That size generator is really only good for battery charging--so why not skip the noise and jump to a solar system?

Because a generator is much more dependable than solar.pianotuna wrote:Hi,.That size generator is really only good for battery charging--so why not skip the noise and jump to a solar system?

Charging RV batteries with EU1000i and Charge Wizard

18 Replies

NinerBikes
Explorer
Jul 24, 2014
chilly81 wrote:
At 675W, I would hope you could get some charge out of that! Nice setup. I only have 2x100W renogy panels with their basic pwm controller (more craigslist toys I couldn't pass up).

Would like to go to 4x100W with a small 30A MPPT. Sadly 2 golf cart batteries is all I can drop in without major work (and some idea of where to put them) or just crazy $$$$$$ for AGM unvented.

Tempted to do the bigger solar anyway - even if a bit oversized for 225aH of batteries - just have excess capacity for the more cloudy or shady days.

For now I'll see how the 200W + pwm works as I get used to things.

Nash 22H

200W should put you at around 11 amp/hour charge rate, maybe 12. Get your self a charge controller, and measure the amp hours actual output to your batteries while pulse charging.

RC charge meter

Put it in line... also, you may want to get a charge controller that has adjustable voltage for bulk and float charging of your batteries. Something that you can get 15.0V or 14.8V out of, to get your battery closer to 100% charged every 24 hour period.

Link
chilly81
Explorer
Jul 23, 2014
At 675W, I would hope you could get some charge out of that! Nice setup. I only have 2x100W renogy panels with their basic pwm controller (more craigslist toys I couldn't pass up).

Would like to go to 4x100W with a small 30A MPPT. Sadly 2 golf cart batteries is all I can drop in without major work (and some idea of where to put them) or just crazy $$$$$$ for AGM unvented.

Tempted to do the bigger solar anyway - even if a bit oversized for 225aH of batteries - just have excess capacity for the more cloudy or shady days.

For now I'll see how the 200W + pwm works as I get used to things.

Nash 22H
time2roll
Nomad
Jul 23, 2014
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Solar?

"Now this is a fine mess you've gotten us into this time Stanley..."

Looks long in the day by the shadows. 11a to 2p should still get a good charge in. I camp frequently in the pines like this without issue.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 22, 2014
Hi Chilli,

In the summer in unshaded conditions I "see" 17 amps at solar noon, if the batteries are hungry enough or there is inverter use. Based on 5 solar "hours" per day that leaves me with about 85 amp hours going into the battery bank

7 amps means about 40% of the maximum possible. 85 x .4 = 34 amp-hours per day.

My system has 256 watts of panels and a blue sky 3024 di controller with a temperature sensor (I believe the temperature sensor is a MUST DO).

In actual fact, the solar probably does better than the above calculations as it stopped charging at 9 p.m. on 2014 07 21. That means that all parasitic loads are absent for 15 hours per day, as the panels provide the energy so needed.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 21, 2014
Solar?

"Now this is a fine mess you've gotten us into this time Stanley..."
mena661
Explorer
Jul 21, 2014
The IOTA converters charge at 14.8V with the IQ4 module but don't like 100F temps though. If you live/camp in cooler weather, consider it.
dclark1946
Explorer
Jul 21, 2014
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The converter with wizard does "look" at the battery voltage when first plugging in. It may start at 14.4 volts if that voltage is too low. However, once it starts at 14.4 in four hours it will drop back to 13.6. That is why I called it more of a timer than a sensor.

If recharging is needed from a genny it is more effective to "force" the 14.4 voltage.

The generator is more reliable until you run out of gas. My system does 7 amps at solar noon in leafy shade. If I did not use the inverter I would never run out of electricity.

I get 8-9 days of dry camping on 2 gal of gas with our Eu1000.

Dick
chilly81
Explorer
Jul 21, 2014
I just have 2 group 24's, but I can drop in 2 golf cart batteries and they will fit without mods. So I'm planning things based on that.

wa8yxm wrote:
the ideal converter is C/20 times .3 (That's the 20 hour capacity figures I gave above)

Sorry, you lost me on that bit. But glad to hear this is that good of a converter. I have read that 14.8 may be a better charging voltage for some batteries and this sounds like it can't do that. I haven't read enough to know if that sounds like the right thing to do anyway though - so for a $25 upgrade to the stock converter, should be a great start.
chilly81
Explorer
Jul 21, 2014
It sounds possible that the wizard behaves like you say, but if you hadn't said otherwise, I would have thought the 4 hours was with manual boost mode. The docs really seem to indicate they can tell when it's 90% - which I thought was just a voltage measurement. Well whichever way it works, I'll understand it.

7amps sounds good for leafy shade - so maybe 40Ah. How many W of panels is that? I was expecting maybe 4amps - 20-24Ah or something from 200W? A guess. That'd be pretty good, but it's not going to be able to power my tanning bed. j/k
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jul 20, 2014
2-old said it, YES it will work
No, there is no better method.

In fact I will go one farther, Assuming you have a "Group-xx" battery (27,29 or 31) It would be very very very hard to find a better fast charger

If you have bigger batteries, well it takes a bit longer to re-charge but the results (in terms of battery life) are better still...

I use an 80 amp with around 550 amp hours worth of mixed batteries.

(27/29 is just shy/over 100 amp hours 31 is 130 the ideal converter is C/20 times .3 (That's the 20 hour capacity figures I gave above)

Smaller than that generally results in longer battery life.