Check your water heater anode!

nm1oqrz wrote:
While talking with Atwood some years back they informed my that if an Atwood WH was using an anode rod and required warrantee service, Atwood would not honor the warrantee.
Happy camping nm1oqrz

They can certainly TRY to deny it anytime they wish. But, if the anode rod did no harm to the tank then why would they even want to? What would prevent me from simply removing the anode before taking it in for service? These are just idle threats.

The ONLY harm I can see using an anode on an Atwood tank MIGHT cause is screwing the threads up if you were careless or negligent. Warranty doesn't cover that stuff anyway!

This is just foolish nonsense saying an anode isn't needed or will harm an Atwood tank. They're used all the time on aluminum boats and tanks to help prevent corrosion of whatever they're used on. That's why they're called "sacrificial". What Atwood doesn't want you to realize is that the aluminum tank itself is anodic, and in time will get pinholes in it and leak. That's why some of us will still use an anode rod despite their warnings of "We'll void your warranty!" :E .

Go ahead. Even if my water heater still had a warranty I wouldn't care.

:):)

My trailer has an Atwood tank, and it has no Anode, and came with no Anode. (It's also been working fine for 6 years this way.) The drain plug is a simple plastic nut. It's possible that not all Atwood tanks are made the same.

My previous trailer had a Suburban water heater with an Anode. I replaced it every couple years (with Magnesium) when winterizing. I never had any problems with that water heater either.

While talking with Atwood some years back they informed my that if an Atwood WH was using an anode rod and required warrantee service, Atwood would not honor the warrantee.
Happy camping nm1oqrz

msiminoff wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:
The Atwood heaters do not need or use an anode.

I do not currently (and have never in the past) owned an Atwood water heater. But if I ever did have a water heater with an aluminum tank I would choose to use a magnesium anode… It's dirt-cheap insurance against tank failure.

"Aluminum clad tank - Less weight and the cladding eliminates the need for an anode rod."

www.atwoodmobile.com/water-heaters/electronic-ignition.asp

Thanks for all of the comments. This really wasn't intended as a debate about the type of anode material to use. I just want to remind people to check their hot water tank anodes as part of their annual maintenance…. That is, if their tank has one.

jplante4 wrote:
Almost every pic I see, the nut has Teflon tape. Isn't that also an insulator?

There is good conductivity between the brass plug and the water tank and between the anode & the plug as well.

valhalla360 wrote:
... no reason to go magneisum. It just needs to be lower on the scale and it will do it's job.

There are lots of reasons to use Magnesium instead of aluminum!
-First and foremost is the health issue; The jury is still out on some of the concerns (e.g. alum' as a factor in Alzheimer's disease), but, just the same, there is NO known function for aluminum in human biology. At high doses aluminum is known to be toxic. On the other hand, Magnesium is a beneficial and necessary mineral. I will add that I do not typically drink water from the hot tank, but it is an unavoidable fact that some will be mixed with the cold water in the plumbing fixtures.
-Aluminum expands as it corrodes which can make a (tight fitting) anode difficult to remove from the port.
-Aluminum has a tendency to flake off in chunks as it corrodes and the resulting debris can be difficult to clean out of the heater tank. It can also enter the water lines and clog faucet aerators.
-Because it is higher on the anodic scale Magnesium produces a higher driving voltage which does provide more protection for the tank, especially in soft water.

More importantly, if it is completely gone by the end of the season, you are getting no protection towards the end of the season.

I'm diligent about preventive maintenance and check my anode regularly. There was plenty of magnesium left (still in intimate contact with the drain plug) at the time I chose to replace it. However I do agree that when the anode is gone, so is the protection.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
The Atwood heaters do not need or use an anode.

I do not currently (and have never in the past) owned an Atwood water heater. But if I ever did have a water heater with an aluminum tank I would choose to use a magnesium anode… It's dirt-cheap insurance against tank failure.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
That is a dual heat element with rod assembly......yours?? Wiring looks like maybe 12V DC & a 110V AC elements.

Yes, that is a 120Vac (500W) and 12Vdc (150W) hot water heater. I built it myself and I use the 12V heater as a "diversion load". It is powered by my solar charge controller. It works GREAT!… But I digress, as that is not the topic of this post ;)

Mag will dissolve quicker but can also react with microbes in water source and stink.

Yes that's true and I am aware of this possibility, but so far it has not occurred.

Cheers
-Mark

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Just a note to say that the above info only applies to porcelain clad Suburban water heaters, not to the aluminum Atwood heaters. The Atwood heaters do not need or use an anode.

And yet there are anode rods for sale for Atwood WHs.

Good old aftermarketing.......if you make it someone will buy it even when it isn't needed.

OK that is NOT a stock Suburban anode rod :B

That is a dual heat element with rod assembly......yours?? Wiring looks like maybe 12V DC & a 110V AC elements.
Nice job!!!!


Suburban OEM anode rod is magnesium...Aluminum rod is optional.
Mag will dissolve quicker but can also react with microbes in water source and stink.
If using aluminum and after one season you find very little deterioration then you should go magnesium for improved protection. The idea is for the rod to dissolve vs the tank itself.

Just a note to say that the above info only applies to porcelain clad Suburban water heaters, not to the aluminum Atwood heaters. The Atwood heaters do not need or use an anode.

As long as the aluminium version is approved by the manufacturer, no reason to go magneisum. It just needs to be lower on the scale and it will do it's job. More isn't neccessarily any better.

More importantly, if it is completely gone by the end of the season, you are getting no protection towards the end of the season.

The Teflon gets cut by the threads when tightened...don't worry none, it will conduct to the tank just fine. If you read the installation instructions on the anodes wrapper...it says to use Teflon tape or joint compound safe for drinking water...

Just finished bleach sanitizing my fresh water system, flushing the hot water tank, and replacing my anode. I can get two years out of a magnesium anode usually...it just depends on your water.

They say...if your magnesium anode doesn't last a full year...then you then should switch to the Aluminum ones.